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February 25, 2008

DIY Sleeping Bag Carrier

Filed under: Equipment — Gunny @ 8:16 pm

DISCLAIMER: I did not write this article, I merely re-formatted it in WordPress for this article’s original author Dak Kovar. All credit goes to him, I’m just the formatting lackey. Enjoy!

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As some of us have discovered there is no real good way to attach a sleeping bag to most of our smaller packs, especially the something as large as the Army’s Modular Sleep System (MSS) bags. The first set of photos show my small ruck and my MSS/shelter roll. The second set of photos is of a light weight bag and a Gor-Tex bivy.

I am using surplus US Army Sleeping Bag Carrier and a USGI general purpose carry strap (I’ll call it a sling for this article) as used on field phones, 2 qt canteens and field aid bags. These two items are very inexpensive and easy to get if you know where to look, more on that later.

OK, what’s in the big first bag?
The MSS by itself, using the compression sack, packs down fairly tight. It grows in size as you add stuff. In this example I have elected to carry some items instead of putting them in my pack. This saves room in the pack for other things. This combination weighs about 16lbs total.

The MSS bag has in it:
MSS sleeping bag-complete
Air mattress
GI Poncho
Ground Cloth
100’550 Chord
Water shoes
Mosquito Net for my head
Beanie Cap
The next three photos are of the whole unit ready for carry.



The photos are deceiving. My friend, Fabio, who modeled for me is very thin. The bottom picture is most representative of the real size of this load.

Note that on the outside is a USGI shelter half (Item in green). The whole thing comes out to about 15-17lbs. As you can see in the picture this set up has a built in carry handle and there is enough room in the straps for more stuff, like a field Jacket, shovel, ax, etc.

Here is a picture of the same rig using a Mountain Hardware sleeping bag and an MSS bivy cover. This was done without a compression strap. It is very light and carries very well. It would be an easy fix to come up with something like this out of other materials such as 550 chord, belts, webbing strap and many other things.

Mountain Hardwar/MSS bivy (Top) and the MSS/shelter roll.

Here are pictures of the carrier and the sling:

Here is how it goes together:
1. Lay the straps out flat.

2. Put your sleeping bag and/or other items on the carrier.

3. Secure the two main straps and tighten them alternating back and forth until it is tight.

4. Secure the two side straps. If the straps won’t reach you can make a bridge by tying in a section of 550 chord.

5. Once the carrier is secure attach the sling.

Once the sling is in place it can be worn over the shoulder on either side.. If you have a heavy load you can use a t-shirt or something to cushion your neck. I would recommend shifting sides at every rest break.

At the suggestion of another member here, the roll can also be placed loose on top of a small back pack and steadied using the sling straps as shown in the next three photos.


Where to Find:
Here are some sources for the carrier/strap I found by way of Google. These are only examples and I am not affiliated with any of the sellers and I have not done business with them unless noted.

For the carrier:
Google search was done by: Google, images, Army sleeping bag carrier and looking for pictures of the item. I’ve found this save me time when I’m looking for a thing.
US Military Surplus
Army Navy Deals
More Militaria

For the strap/sling:
Sportsmans Guide
Charley’s Surplus
(Scroll down to Universal Gun and Carrying Sling)

New Style:
Go to e-bay, “sleeping bag carrier”, and search. You will find new style bag carriers as well as the old style which is the focus of this article. I have not used one of these but they do look nice. Folks from southern states may do well with one of these. Advantage: enclosed and self contained. Disadvantage: limited by size to what can be carried.

Improvised Carry:
Another method is to place your sleeping bag, packed as tight as you can get it, into a garbage bag, and that in turn into a pillowcase. You can carry it over your shoulder, or using a second pillow case (filled with food or cloths) tied together and hung around the neck or over a sturdy stick, hobo style. Good quality garbage bags could be used as well. Result will vary due to materials and construction.

Summery:
Together, these two items are a very useful piece of inexpensive gear. It can obviously be used as intended, which was hung off of a pack frame, or used as described above using the sling. It is also handy to carry firewood back to camp. Don’t forget to put your items into some type of water proof covering. If you have any questions feel free to contact me by way of this site. I hope you have found this article useful.
Dak Kovar

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Tips for Fish and Fishing

Filed under: General, Survival — Off Duty Ninja @ 7:33 pm

Ever see a little stone pile that doesn’t look natural at the bottom of a stream or creek? Well if you have, that would be the nesting area of the Stoneroller or Hornyheaded Chub…no I’m really not making these names up.

They dig a small trench in very shallow waster during their spawning season. Different fishes use a plethora of spawning methods. Some nest in the open, some nest in cavities, and others just broadcast their eggs out into open water.

Other nesters don’t get as elaborate as the Horneyheaded Chub or the Stoneroller. Sunfish, Bass, and Goggle Eye fan out bare spots in gravel for a simple nest site. Catfish are generally cavity nesters and prefer hollow logs, large rock rubble, root wads, etc. in which to lay eggs.

Catfish(usually the males) will guard their nests from predators and fan the eggs laid in cavities to keep them oxygenated and free of sediment. White Bass, Paddlefish, Walleye, and Suckers spawn in open water, usually where a riffle of moving water takes care of the sediment from settle on their eggs.

Another interesting point about fish spawning, shared by a local Fishery Owner, is that Bluegill are multiple spawners, up to NINE TIMES EACH SEASON under ideal conditions! This capability is why Bluegill will be an important fish to stock in the PAW.

Crappie are very popular with anglers, but few ponds or lakes have natural populations. Crappie management can be challenging in small impounds, but can be done under certain conditions.

First, your pond water MUST be clear most of the time. In murky ponds, too many Crappie escape Bass and other sight feeding predators, and the Crappie population tends to become stunted.

Ponds also need ample rooted, under water vegetation to be suitable for Crappie. Young Bass need hiding and feeding places to survive to sizes that can eat Crappie and control their numbers. Crappie breed second only to Blue Gill.

Heavily fished ponds need regulation to ensure that Bass are not overfished. One approach is to release all Bass between 12 and 14, or even 18, inches long. The only danger is in taking so many small Bass that few make it into the protected size range.

Stocking prey fish to boost Crappie growth can work, but avoid Gizzard Shad which can grow numorus enough to keep Bass from eating small Crappie. Fatheaded Minnows are the best choice.

You can harvest any number of crappie at any size without fear of “fishing them out”. However, imposing a minimum length limit of 9 or 10 inches produces larger fish in the future.

If your pond has an established population of Bass and other fish, you may be able to get started by stocking 30 adult fish early in the spring. The alternative is to stock fingerling’s at a rate of 50 to 200 per pond acre/per year in June until the population sticks.

For further advise on managing fish in ponds, contact your Department of Conservation or Department of Natural Resources. For Missourinites (yes I made that up) that would be 573-751-4115 or visit the web site at www.missouriconservation.org , and click on Fishing.

Also contrary to popular belief if the DoC or DNR stock you pond your DO NOT have to allow the public to fish it. You have a constitutional right to privacy of person, place, and papers. The Missouri DoC will stock ponds for free once a year. Call them for more info.

February 24, 2008

Zombie Squad Winter Camping Trip - NY

Filed under: Survival — Administrator @ 1:20 pm

7 ZS members went camping up in the Adirondack Park in Upstate NY over the weekend of February 15-17, 2008. We had a great time and, I like to think, learned a lot about winter camping.


We camped on the shore of beautiful Polliwog Pond, at a big campsite that was buried under 1-2 feet of snow. The above picture show Polliwog Pond with the firepit in the foreground.


I set up my tent on top of a heavy-duty space blanket after digging down through the snow to reach (almost) the ground. At the end of the weekend I found that even with my sleeping pad and the space blanket, I had melted out an icy outline of myself under my tent.


CommonHighrise had pretty much the same pad and sleeping bag as I did, but he set up his tent without digging down to ground level, and over a layer of balsam branches. He ended the weekend with light and fluffy (and unmelted) snow under his tent. In future winter camping excursions I will follow his example.


Friday night got down to -17 degrees, so all of the lessons learned were learned the hard way, and should be useful for almost any winter camping situations (I hope that I/you never have to go camping in colder weather than that).


Starting and maintaining fires proved quite difficult at these temperatures, but having firestarters to help things along is a definite advantage. I think the key to the difficulty lies in raising the temperature of the tinder and wood to the combustion point; being able to have a firestarter keep the heat on your tinder and wood for the extra time needed is a big help. Increasing the surface area of your tinder and wood (by splitting or “fuzzing” the wood) will help the fire get going.


Once the Sun went behind the trees (at about 4:30), you need to be sure to have more wood than you think you’ll need for the night and for the next morning. The campfire becomes a focal point of your winter campsite, especially when the temperature drops below zero. The heat and light from the fire provides both an actual and perceived boost to your core temperature.


This picture, although posed, provide a good example of the signs of a party member chilling down too much. Shivering that they can’t stop, and pulling themselves into a fetal posture (arms and legs and head down towards your stomach) is a good signal that the person is getting too cold. The best fix for this is to make sure that the person has dry clothes (and if not, to change into them), get some hot liquids into them (over-strong hot cocoa or gatorade are great for this purpose), and pump some serious fuel into their system (I suggest a couple of big spoonfuls of peanut butter, but anything with lots of carbs and fat will work).


Hot water, and the ability to make it, is vitally important in winter camping. You can actually dehydrate more in wintertime than in the summer, because your lungs will moisten every dry breath that you take into your lungs. If you’re not peeing every 1-2 hours, then you aren’t drinking enough; don’t feel bad, it’s easy to do, for a variety of reasons when winter camping…making water from snow is a hassle and peeing in the cold makes you feel colder.


The pieces of gear pictured above are not typically thought of as winter camping gear, but they can make things go more smoothly. A maul to split wood into smaller pieces will make lighting and maintaining your fire easier. The 15″ Stanley FatMax saw is small and rips through logs of all sizes really quickly (if it binds in the cold, a quick shot of rem-oil along the teeth will help things along). A really solid folding grill can be useful for everything from grilling meat to supporting pots. Leather-handed gloves are great for handling wood and lifting stuff off of the fire. Skip back up to the picture above this one, and you will see a set of angled pliers, which are great for grabbing pots and pans and grills and providing mechanical advantage for freeing frozen parts.


When winter camping, more than at any other time of the year, food should be viewed as fuel first, and as an outlet for creativity and source of pleasure second. We were lucky enough to have some great cooks along with us on this camping trip, and we all enjoyed super chili and steaks and stew and pancakes and such; but I consider those things luxuries. The first line of winter survival is warm food, rich in carbs and fats and liquid: cocoa and oatmeal started each morning for me, and are a great way to get warmth and water and nutrients into you quickly. Pieces of cheese and pep-stick and the occasional spoonful of peanut butter also kept me fueled up and warm.

I also found myself keeping my next snack and drink inside my outer (windproof) layer, so that they wouldn’t freeze. As soon as I finished the bottle of gatorade (which I believe is less likely to free solid due to the salts in it) or Clif bar, I would replace it with the next one, and let my body warm it up so that I didn’t have to break it (or my teeth on it) in its frozen state.


My outerwear consisted of pac-boots, windpants, a heavyweight fleece-hooded jacket, windproof coat, fingerless gloves, and mittens. I don’t like to layer up too much, because if I’m too layered, I feel as though the dead airspace doesn’t work as well. If I start to feel cold in all of this stuff, I either start moving, or eat/drink something.


My inner layer includes long underwear top and bottom, heavyweight wool/poly socks, and a balaclava (generally not added unless it’s really cold, or at bedtime). All of these layers, being next to my skin, were likely to become wet, so having multiple sets of each is vitally important. At bedtime I would strip down to a dry set of this layer for sleeping inside my bag; lots of people argue for sleeping without the long undies or socks, but I prefer it.

Original Post: http://myzombieblog.blogspot.com/2008/02/zombie-squad-winter-camping-trip.html

Stalking, Sneaking, and/or Standing. The Finer Points of Hunting.

Filed under: Survival — Off Duty Ninja @ 11:37 am

Today we’re going to talk about Stalking, Sneaking, and/or Standing. Deer hunters take one of two (or three depending on how you look at it) general approaches to harvesting their game. They either wait in one spot for deer to come to them, or they move around, hoping to scare up deer, sneak up on deer, or intercept deer that are themselves moving.

The first is called stand-hunting; the second, still-hunting. Which is better? Well, as any grizzled, deer-hunting philosopher would tell you, it depends.

Both methods are pretty simple. Stand-hunters wait in a ground blind, in a tree stand or behind natural cover, or they just remain out in the open, trusting that a lack of movement and noise on their part will allow them to escape the notice of moving deer. Very few hunters actually stand in stands; most sit and a few recline, sometimes luxuriantly.

Still-hunters try to walk into the vicinity of deer. Because deer are reluctant to share their personal space with humans, these hunters either have to be lucky and catch a deer that’s not paying attention, or they have to walk quietly and slowly enough that a deer doesn’t see or hear them.

I like to call still-hunting sneaking. It differs from stalking in the sense that you usually don’t have a specific target in mind. You’re just moving around quietly hoping to cross paths with a deer.

Both standing and sneaking work well some of the time, but neither works all of the time. In fact, the most frustrating thing about both methods is that they usually give you enough time between deer sightings to think that it might have been better to hunt the other way. When you’re not seeing deer in the woods, it’s very easy to imagine deer where you are not.

Oddsmaking

During one of those long mornings when I’d sat in a stand with nothing to look at but trees, rocks and shrubs and only my gurgling stomach breaking the silence, I tried to calculate whether sneaking or stand-hunting is better. I happened to think about those cowpie raffles, in which a field is marked off into sections and the location of the cow’s first deposit determines the winner.

I imagined the woods divided into 100 equal sections and containing only me and one deer. The winning combination would be when the deer and I occupied the same section. Given those conditions, at any given moment I have a 1-percent chance of that deer being in the section I’m guarding.

If the deer moves through five different sections during the time I remain on stand, I have a 5-percent chance of encountering it, assuming that being in the same section as the deer means that I would see it. If I move through five sections and the deer remains still, the odds of having all six legs of the two animals involved occupying the same section at some time during the hunt are also 5 percent.

Because I used only my fingers and my cold toes in the calculations, my math became a little clumsy when I tried to figure the odds should the deer and I both move through five sections during the time I was hunting.

You might think the dual movement improves the chances but, instead, it allows the possibility of me moving into an area that the deer had already occupied, or vice versa. Essentially, I was back to the same 1-percent chance that both of us would occupy the same section at the same time.

In addition to being wonderfully time-consuming, the exercise was constructive. It suggested that if the deer were moving, I would be better off in a stand, but if the deer were laying up somewhere, I’d be better off sneaking.

Of course, I didn’t bother with speed of movement, duration of stay in a section, unhuntable or uninhabitable sections or other complications. The odds only hold for purely random movement throughout the entire woods by either deer or hunter. Fortunately, we can improve those odds by eliminating some of the randomness.

For one thing, we can take advantage of patterns of deer movement. Deer are crepuscular animals, which means they are usually most active near sunrise and sunset. This suggests that your most fruitful approach to hunting early in the morning and late in the day is to sit and wait. If you want to sneak, take advantage of the times when the deer aren’t likely to be moving.

Because deer movement often involves traveling between bedding and feeding areas, we have a better chance of intercepting deer if we sit and wait somewhere between those destinations.

Stand-Hunting Lessons

I used to bow hunt not far from a big field. I was able to hunt a lot of mornings and evenings and got to the point where I could guess pretty well when the deer would be moving and in what direction they would be heading. During the day, they bedded anywhere from a quarter mile to a mile in the woods, usually in the thick stuff. Most evenings they commuted to the field. I suspect they stayed in or near the field through the night, because the deer I’d see in the mornings were usually headed back into the woods.

Once I’d learned the general pattern, I kind of played with it, setting my stand in different places and hunting at various times.

I saw plenty of deer, and what impressed me most was that they were less creatures of habit than creatures of tendency. They tended to and from the field, but that’s about all I could predict about them. The deer didn’t always use the same trails, for example, and they traveled at different times. Sometimes they were in groups, and sometimes they’d be solo. They also moved at different speeds, poking along one day and rushing as if late for a meeting another day.

I saw the most deer from stands anywhere from 100 yards to a quarter-mile from the field. When I set up right at the field edge, the deer seemed to arrive too late or too early, and they seemed really edgy.

Another drawback to field-edge stands is that I was too close to where they were when I was leaving or arriving. Deer aren’t dopes. From the field, they can hear a hunter climbing into a nearby stand or climbing down from it. They might not know it’s a hunter they’re hearing, but being naturally cautious, they might avoid areas that generate unusual noises.

Even when I set up away from the field, I made a point of approaching my stand from the field side in the late afternoon for an evening hunt and from the woods side for a morning hunt; I left the stand heading the opposite directions. That way I was always approaching or leaving from where I figured the deer weren’t.

They often made me anyway. That’s the only way to explain why I generally saw more whitetails when I put the stand in a new place but fewer the more days I hunted from it. The deer either whiffed my perfume, or spotted me moving my head or hands.

Something About Sneaking

It’s hard to spend long hours in even the most comfortable stand. When I’ve got a whole day to hunt, I usually plan to sit early and late and sneak in between. In fact, it’s while sneaking that I usually find new places (trails or scrapes, for example) to place my stand.

When I’m sneaking, I feel more like a hunter. Maybe it’s because I can’t multi-task. I’ve hoisted books, MP3 players, video games and notepads into my tree stands and still saw deer, but sneaking forces me to be focused and deliberate.

Everyone knows how to sneak. We’re always surprising brothers, sisters, cats and dogs by sneaking up on them — great fun! Sneaking through the woods isn’t much different. We have to travel quietly and slowly, hiding behind trees or brush whenever we can.

Because we don’t know what we’re looking for or where it is, we have to remain extremely alert. Experts tell us that we shouldn’t look for a whole deer, but for parts of a deer, especially the horizontal line marking the bottom or top of the deer’s body. One of my favorite sneaks involves creeping like a box turtle through cedars, looking beneath the limbs for deer legs.

Travel slowly enough that you can spot almost any movement, even the flick of a deer’s ear. Remember, they are as likely to be lying down as standing. Your goal is to see a deer before it senses you. If you’re startled by sudden noise and see a white rump bouncing away through the woods, you’ve lost the sneak game.

I can be quietest when the woods are soggy, but I also like to sneak around in dry, windy conditions. I think strong breezes whisk my scent away quickly, giving only those deer directly downwind a chance to sniff me. Also, the wind rustling through the dry woods provides a kind of “white noise” that masks any ruckus I might make. The same wind shakes branches and leaves, which probably makes it more difficult for the deer to pick up my slow movements.

My most memorable sneak actually was a stalk. I disturbed a couple of deer when I approached my tree stand early one morning. They clumped off noisily in the dark, but they didn’t go far. Not long after full light, I could see two deer milling around in a patch of tall grass about 300 yards away. As I watched them through binoculars from my perch, they suddenly vanished.

The deer had bedded down.

They weren’t coming to me, so I decided to go to them. Before lowering my bow and easing myself out of the tree, I noted landmarks and planned a stalk toward where I’d last seen the deer. I had all morning to hunt and told myself to use it all if necessary to get close enough for a shot — about 15 yards. From the time my foot first hit the ground, I took every step slowly, deliberately and quietly.

The wind that came up gave me a lot of confidence. I was mostly moving into it, so the deer couldn’t smell me, and if I was stealthy they probably wouldn’t hear me. The wind also whipped the grass where they were bedded, so they would have trouble seeing me. Confidence breeds competence: I have never been sneakier.

I plotted each footfall, kept trees between me and my destination and moved only when the wind gusted. If I did happen to snap a twig, I froze for at least a minute before even thinking about shifting my weight further.

A couple of very enjoyable hours passed before I found myself on the edge of the grassy plot without a clue of what to do next. I had an arrow nocked and was ready to draw, but I had no target. The deer were still hidden in the grass. I kept moving forward, extra alert, hoping that I could startle them into standing up without spooking them out of range.

It happened just that way. The deer popcorned up, one right after another, both within easy shooting range and both staring at me to the point of rudeness. I didn’t dare pull the bow, but the deer to my left forced my hand when she began to circle matter-of-factly to a point downwind of me. She apparently wanted to get to the bottom of my sudden apparition. If she whiffed me, I knew they would both be gone.

I slowly drew on the standing deer, even though it was looking at me. I could see its muscles tense, and we both seemed to release at exactly the same moment. It ran off, as did the sniffing deer, and I spent the next 15 minutes locating my arrow in the grass. What a great hunt!

Actually, they all are. It’s not really so important that I see a deer or shoot one when I’m hunting. It’s enough to know that I have a chance to do either, and that I can improve my chances by applying the hunting skills of stealth, patience, woodsmanship and awareness.

As a bonus, I don’t think I’ve ever been on a hunt when I didn’t marvel at or appreciate something wild and natural and worth telling others about. When you take such benefits into account, the odds in deer hunting, whether you’re standing or sneaking, are always in your favor.

February 4, 2008

The Pulk Sled

Filed under: Equipment — Woods Walker @ 11:06 pm

Here is another idea for reducing your pack load during winter. Just put the pack in a Pulk sled.

The usual March snowstorm hit a few weeks back. I took the opportunity to get in one last Pulk trip. The sled is a Paris expedition sled. The poles and sled hardware are from SkiPulk. After using the sled for one season I liked it. Next year I need to come up with some kinda brake system and maybe some fins for the hills. The sled tracked well. The Aluminum hardware on the sled is showing some signs of ware but don’t expect it to be a problem in the foreseeable future. Maybe the crossed traces allowed the metal parts of the poles to push against the Aluminum or perhaps the hard terrain is to blame. Still does not seem to be a showstopper.

Going up and down steep hills was a bit tricky but this was more than made up for on flatter terrain. There the sled offered a free ride. The sled allowed me to pack in some massive loads that would have been impossible in the backpack. Even with the fine EMR. The Molle harness worked better than expected as offered great control of the sled and the Pals webbing allowed for canteen and gear storage pockets that are easy access.

The Molle Harness:

http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n220/Daytraderwon/100_3645.jpg

Paris Sled with pole set.

Here is the Pulk sled just before setting up camp. It was getting dusk so I had the usual horse and pony show of setting up camp at night and finding firewood.

Nightfall with some light snow and still unpacking the Pulk.

Removed the poles and used the sled for wood gathering. Saved lots of time using the sled to transport the wood back to camp. Used a hatchet and a folding saw. Took down 2 very small standing maple dead wood trees. Dry as a bone despite a week of rain than then the storm. Guessing it was the near vertical position of the 8-foot saplings. Every degree the angle adds to the total moisture content.

Wet paints from running around in the dark looking for the above wood.

Dry paints thanks to the clothesline and woodstove. Took about 2 hours.

Cooked up some of my favorite Polish treats for dinner.

My super comfortable bed inside the 4-man tipi. The downmate 9DLX and a very large synthetic bag. Weight was not a consideration.

Nearly packed up. Once I policed up the camp site the only sign is the tell tale dry spot from the wood stove.

Looks like the snow is all done for this year. I liked the Pulk sled a lot. People could pack 150 lbs of gear with a pulk sled. Here I am with that load on aother trip.

Clearly a pulk sled is worthless in the warmer months but for BIG loads during winter it is hard to beat.

Original thread discussion can be found here: http://zombiehunters.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=17060

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