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williaty wrote:Not sure about CL. Possibly carbine length?

thebigstick wrote:hey folks.
putting together my first ar and I've come to the rear sight, and now I have a few questions.
are all rear sights created equal?
what should I look for in a rear sight?
and would you recommend a manufacturer over any other?

squinty wrote:What? Damn I thought this was match.com. No wonder my profile didn't get any hits....

kbilly84 wrote:I've wondered why barrels are MP and bolts are MPI, when both mean Magnetic Particle Inspected. I've found that odd.

12_Gauge_Chimp wrote:I say when Wee Drop visits the US, we make her ride a goat. You know, like those little monkey cowboys they have at some rodeos.![]()
RickOShea wrote:thebigstick wrote:hey folks.
putting together my first ar and I've come to the rear sight, and now I have a few questions.
are all rear sights created equal?
what should I look for in a rear sight?
and would you recommend a manufacturer over any other?
Most have dual flip apertures. Usually one of the "peep holes" is larger (for close in/quick use) while the other is smaller (for longer range/more precise aiming).
BUT....Some rear sights have both apertures on the "same plane", so that your point-of-aim/point-of-impact is the same no matter which one you're using. While others have the apertures on different planes. IIRC, on those you'd sight the small one in at 300 yards/meters, and that would give you a "battle zero" from 0-200 yards/meters with the larger one.
Now, what type of rear sight are you looking for, a fixed or folding one?
kbilly84 wrote:Anyone out there can explain - metallurically - why Hammer-Forged is better? I used have a vague idea, but now it's more of an "accepted fact"

williaty wrote:kbilly84 wrote:Anyone out there can explain - metallurically - why Hammer-Forged is better? I used have a vague idea, but now it's more of an "accepted fact"
The way you turn a big bar o' steel into a finished product has a major effect on the final grain structure of the metal. Grain structure is sort of like what shape of snowflake the steel made as it crystalized. Some snowflakes are stronger, tougher, or in some way different than other snowflakes. Hammer forging is one process that tends to result in snowflakes that are both strong and tough, which is what is required for durability.

12_Gauge_Chimp wrote:I say when Wee Drop visits the US, we make her ride a goat. You know, like those little monkey cowboys they have at some rodeos.![]()
gravediggerfour wrote:If you don’t know what your talking about don’t lead people, especially new people, astray.





12_Gauge_Chimp wrote:I say when Wee Drop visits the US, we make her ride a goat. You know, like those little monkey cowboys they have at some rodeos.![]()

squinty wrote:What? Damn I thought this was match.com. No wonder my profile didn't get any hits....

nimdabew wrote:http://pact.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=17&Itemid=63
Get that one.
RickOShea wrote:I use "Ole Blue"....But it's kinda bulky compared to some of the newer timers.
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/1810132542
I like the smaller size of this one, but I don't have any experience with 'em.
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/759103


TheLastOne wrote:meh a new thread would be stupid, and most of the people I'd like to hear answers from read this thread, so:
Recommend me a shot timer. Had a blast in Dave's sub-group this weekend working on transitions, splits etc, and with the disruption drill. I think Doc had a Competition Electronics (CED) brand?
I don't know shit about these things, but I want adjustable delay start (because I shoot by myself for the most part), able to display time between multiple shots, time between first and last shots. Pretty sure that is all standard, but there you go.
Thanks

JTNieman wrote:Do you also look down the barrel when you pull the trigger to make sure it's clear? It's best to visually confirm the chamber's empty this way.
SMoAF wrote:Your sin is one of geography, not one of unmanliness. Pimp's sin is that he's, well....himself.
Doctorr Fabulous wrote:If you're in a fixed defense with a Mosin, you failed somewhere.

hatchtrikk wrote:Can you guys give your recommendations as to which muzzle device would be best for a RECCE style build? I'm leaning towards a regular old A2.
It'll have a 16"bbl.



Regular Guy wrote:hatchtrikk wrote:Can you guys give your recommendations as to which muzzle device would be best for a RECCE style build? I'm leaning towards a regular old A2.
It'll have a 16"bbl.
VLTOR A2.

hatchtrikk wrote:Regular Guy wrote:hatchtrikk wrote:Can you guys give your recommendations as to which muzzle device would be best for a RECCE style build? I'm leaning towards a regular old A2.
It'll have a 16"bbl.
VLTOR A2.
![]()
What are the benefits over the standard A2? I like the look of it, so I'll probably end up with it anyway. Just wondering.
LOL at the new smilies. I'm so excite!


majorhavoc wrote:Damn. PSA AR barrels in light, mid and heavy weight profiles, midlength gas systems, $123.95 with free shipping for the month of June.
http://palmettostatearmory.com/index.php/ar-15-05/barrel-clearance.html
16", Chrome Moly Vanadium Steel, 5.56 NATO Chamber, 1 in 7 inch twist, Chrome-Lined Bore and Chamber, Mid-length gas system, 1/2-28 Muzzle thread, .750 Gas Block Diameter, High Pressure Tested, Magnetic Particle Inspected, Black Phosphate coated.
I swear to god I'm not a shill for PSA. I don't even haunt their website. But this shit keeps showing up on Slickguns.com. Somebody out there must be in the middle of a build and looking for a decent barrel.


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