The Dusty Rose Project - '11 JK w/ Product Reviews

[kbilly84]

Yeah, she's in Packers colors.

Thus making it the sexist canoe EVAARRR!!!


Seriously tho, that's a sweet looking setup.

[KnightoftheRoc]

You do realize, I hope, that your BO canoe is sequentially numbered, right after my Jeep? so, if it were to say, "fall into" my hands, it would be difficult to claim it was yours...

Not to worry, there's no way I'm driving 1/2 way across the country to get a canoe- Gander Mountain is right across town.

[Tater Raider]

Yeah, she's in Packers colors.

Thus making it the sexist canoe EVAARRR!!!


Seriously tho, that's a sweet looking setup.

I wrecked it.


Black 3 is the capacity number, required in Iowa, but not required to be high contrast.
Soylent's Envy is now legal but no longer is purely Packer colors.



So I made 2 changes to Dusty to help with cargo and user friendliness for back seat passengers. The first mod was to put in a trash can. It's not much of a trash can, but it does make a handy place to put, say, sunglasses or a Nintendo DS:


That's a 1# bag of rubber bands in there to give me a sense of scale.



To fold the rear seat forward, that's where the insert goes.


There is a bit of interference with the legroom due to the cupholders, but Old Son says it's not bad. I think the added utility is worth it so there it is. Cost was around $35 and it does exactly what is advertised, though a deeper trash recepticle would be nice. I may try some brown paper lunch bags.

VDP Trash Can with Cup Holders for 11-12 Jeep® Wrangler & Wrangler Unlimited JK (quadratec.com): 4 out of 5 discarded candy wrappers.


Next up on the cargo issue are some roll bar duffel bags. Rugged Ridge makes some, but I went with Back Trail Outfitters for a canvas rollbar bag. It's a bit more but, c'mon, canvas bags man. Rugged, tough, durable, etc.

I got mine in the mail today. 6" diameter and 20" long with 3 straps to fit many different sized roll bars, and the connection on the bags makes sure it stays put. I played around a bit with placement and discovered the C pillar is tight but works (as shown in pics) and the B pillar works as well, though it cuts off some view. If I removed the soundbar I could fit them over the rear windows like I thought, but the soundbar does have to be loosened then retightened and it does monkey with the view so I'm not going this route. Realizing my 6 pack tube cooler is kinda the same way, I'm reduced to 1 duffel being usable.

Construction is really nice. Brass zippers set up for heavy duty, brass D-Rings, and the fact you wrap the strap around the bar, thread the D-Rings and tighten, then come back to the side you started and thread another set of D-Rings there tell me this is designed to stay put.


Outside looking in


Looking back the other way


I will not review this until I road test it on Sunday. I will have it full of rolled up newspaper to maximize the weight carried and drive like I normally do, which is just this side of batshit insane. Once I know how it holds up you'll know. I love how tough it looks though. Actually it looks tougher than the light bar, and that looked pretty rugged to me. I'm sorta amazed at how non-rugged some things for the Jeep look.

6" diameter x 20" long = 592 cubic inches - not much but in a location you can't put stuff it's wonderful. I may get a second one for the C-pillar on the driver's side to box in the gear back there and figure some other place to mount the planned fire extinguisher. $45 + shipping.

[Coloranger]

[
The KC HiLites came as a kit with 2 lights, 2 soft covers, wire, quick connectors, fuse, and a switch for under $100 for the pair. Tools required were a drill, 1/8" (I think) bit, wire brush for the drill, couple washers, patience, a wire crimper/stripper/cutter (I forget what that thing is called off the top of my head), and a 1/2" and 9/16" wrench. I suggest adding beer when nearly done.

It's a one wire system with the wire running inside the light bar from the passenger side down the driver's side, in through the windshield, under the dash and to the switch located near the center console. The ground wire runs from the switch to the center console. Hot wire runs from the switch under the dash to the passenger side, out through the windshield there, and directly to the positive battery terminal with the fuse located under the dash on passenger side. The lights themselves are grounded directly to the light bar.

Initially the LED on the switch worked but bad ground to the lights made them no worky. A bit of brushing off the paint and inserting a couple washers under a windshield bolt to ensure contact and I was off and running.


Light Switch was located where I have to lean forward to get at it. It makes turning it on a deliberate thing. These are for off-road use only!



Supply Wire to the switch runs directly to the battery. Power lines in the JK carry digital signals in them, this avoids that and also allows use when, say, setting up camp.

Tater - couple of suggestions, one, get a relay for the lights. this will allow you to run/tap low power wire (smaller guage) inside the jeep. The power wire to the switch would only need a 5 amp fuse since it will only activate the relay. Then you wire from the battery to fuse (20 amp for 2 lights, as close the the battery as possible), to relay, to lights you should get brighter lights due to shorter wire runs, and there is no choke point at the switch causing voltage loss. I don' t have a wiring diagram handy but i am sure your googlefu is strong.....

Second, if you want area lighting to set up camp, see about getting an LED light that plugs into the cig lighter. Those KCs will draw down a battery faster than most realize.

[Tater Raider]

Tater - couple of suggestions, one, get a relay for the lights. this will allow you to run/tap low power wire (smaller guage) inside the jeep. The power wire to the switch would only need a 5 amp fuse since it will only activate the relay. Then you wire from the battery to fuse (20 amp for 2 lights, as close the the battery as possible), to relay, to lights you should get brighter lights due to shorter wire runs, and there is no choke point at the switch causing voltage loss. I don' t have a wiring diagram handy but i am sure your googlefu is strong.....

Second, if you want area lighting to set up camp, see about getting an LED light that plugs into the cig lighter. Those KCs will draw down a battery faster than most realize.

On the relay, what's in there works and has yet to be used, so the relay and time involved in rewiring what's wired just ain't worth it at this time. I went CHAD on this install because I thought it good enough for what I've got and it's intended usage but even so I followed directions on the install. If I planned to use these on a semi-regular basis (nighttime off-roading 3 or more times a year) or had more than a pair of lights then I'd absolutely agree that it needs doing, likely sooner rather than later.

If ya'll will excuse me, I need to take Soylent's Envy on its maiden voyage now and reteach myself proper paddling.

[Tater Raider]

Soylent's Envy floats, I am tipsy in it, I have to practice the C-stroke a lot more, and my shoulder isn't pleased with my new recreational/fitness activity of choice.

Couldn't. Be. Happier.


Out to launch.

[Tater Raider]

Airbag installed.


The Casualty List was expensive.


No, the Jeep is fine and didn't land on anyone and I wanted a Hi Lift anyways. It looks like I'm getting one sooner than anticipated.

Anyways, before all that madness I got Young Son's help and jacked up the rear then set the frame rails on jackstands to unspring the suspension.


Ready for install.


Instructions were pretty clear. getting the airbag inside the spring was a simple matter of deflating the bag entirely and capping it, then inserting. A bit of finese was needed to get the last bit in but no biggie. Air Lift recommends using a tire spoon but I found my hands did the job just fine.


Lookie there! It fits!


After that it was just running the air lines to the rear bumper, a bit of trimming, and done. I skipped drilling a hole in the bumper and instead attached it to the wiring harness on the trailer hitch. It's out of the way, centrally located, and protected. Once the aftermarket bumper goes on I'll do a proper install on the valve.

A slow and careful drive to the gas station allowed me to put 35 psi in the bags for testing. There is a slow leak but it's within spec, just. Installer error is my guess and I'll be troubleshooting it later (medical issues, no biggie but they need fixing first).

Pro Tip: when putting the hose on the connections, put a bit of dish soap on your finger then rub it once around the fitting. This makes the hose slide on much easier - a tiny dab goes a long ways.

In the meantime, at 35 PSI the Jeep rides like it has no suspension at all. This is good once it's loaded and it can work properly but empty it should be much lower. 5 PSI is the minimum but 12 is where I'm sitting because the springs have already been overloaded once and it gives Dusty that "Jeep Ride" I've grown accustomed too. Old Son appreciates that at 12 PSI it no longer feels as if the truck is trying to break his spine in half.

If you mind where the exhaust is at and properly heat shield it (heat shields are supplied with the kit) then this is a simple install that I did in about 2 hours. I'll better be able to test it once I move Daughter Unit out of her dorm on Friday, so look for the review then.

On the roll bar duffel, I was unable to do papers today so that remains to be tested. When I can I'll post.

I also took the boys out today and let them paddle the canoe around a bit. I instructed them on some basic techniques then had them bring me back to shore and sent them back out. They went in circles a lot, but had fun and learned some things. Young Son definately took to it quickly and Old Son had a good enough time that he'll do it again, so win.


(l to r) Old Son and Young Son jsut before they flipped me the bird.

[KJ4VOV]

Air line leaks are a royal pain in the ass. I have one on the wife's Dakota that I've still not been able to eliminate.

Soylent's Envy looks to be a tad low in the water with just two aboard. I'm thinking that with three aboard (as it's rated) that will have to be sans supplies? And, unless I miscounted, you'd be at least a party of four...? To paraphrase Roy Schneider... you need a bigger/second boat.

[Tater Raider]

Air line leaks are a royal pain in the ass. I have one on the wife's Dakota that I've still not been able to eliminate.

Soylent's Envy looks to be a tad low in the water with just two aboard. I'm thinking that with three aboard (as it's rated) that will have to be sans supplies? And, unless I miscounted, you'd be at least a party of four...? To paraphrase Roy Schneider... you need a bigger/second boat.

1 part dishsoap to 5 parts water makes nice bubbles that will help find it.

Soylent's Envy's job atm is to act as a ferry. I do need a better boat, one more suited to solo paddling (center seat makes it a royal pain in this one) and while this one is rated 900#/3 people I'd hate to see what it looked like with the 3 of us in it at a combined 650# or so.

[eugene]

I hope there is more to that light install than the pictures show. It looks like an unfused wire just laying on top od the body metal waiting to rub a hole in the insulation

[KJ4VOV]

Air line leaks are a royal pain in the ass. I have one on the wife's Dakota that I've still not been able to eliminate.

Soylent's Envy looks to be a tad low in the water with just two aboard. I'm thinking that with three aboard (as it's rated) that will have to be sans supplies? And, unless I miscounted, you'd be at least a party of four...? To paraphrase Roy Schneider... you need a bigger/second boat.

1 part dishsoap to 5 parts water makes nice bubbles that will help find it.

Finding it isn't the problem. Getting the goddamnedfuckingstupidsonofabitchmotherfwonker to stop leaking, that's the problem. I don't want to hijack your thread with that problem though. Sufficient to say that I've tried everything short of sweated copper tubing, and that will probably be the next step. And when I say "everything", I mean "EVERYTHING". Usually it will stop for a few days, then start leaking again somewhere in the line. Burned out one compressor already on the system.

[KnightoftheRoc]

Speaking of compressors...
Do you have a portable 12V air compressor to go with Dusty? Not only would it be good for tires, but with your new air ride suspension, you could beef up the pressure as needed. Personally, I feel one should be included in any car kit. They aren't expensive, nor do they eat up a lot of room.

[Tater Raider]

I hope there is more to that light install than the pictures show. It looks like an unfused wire just laying on top od the body metal waiting to rub a hole in the insulation

There is more, but the fuse was installed in the wrong location. It's being corrected.

Finding it isn't the problem. Getting the goddamnedfuckingstupidsonofabitchmotherfwonker to stop leaking, that's the problem. I don't want to hijack your thread with that problem though. Sufficient to say that I've tried everything short of sweated copper tubing, and that will probably be the next step. And when I say "everything", I mean "EVERYTHING". Usually it will stop for a few days, then start leaking again somewhere in the line. Burned out one compressor already on the system.

No worries. I wish you the best of luck!

Speaking of compressors...
Do you have a portable 12V air compressor to go with Dusty? Not only would it be good for tires, but with your new air ride suspension, you could beef up the pressure as needed. Personally, I feel one should be included in any car kit. They aren't expensive, nor do they eat up a lot of room.

It is in the long term plans. In the meantime I can inflate it with a bicycle pump (which I have) if I can't find a gas station with air. Not the greatest solution but it will do for now. One thing at a time and all that. To use as is, inflate to 35 PSI before loading then deflate to get the ride level, minimum 5 PSI (12 in my case).

Onboard air... I'm looking at this or something with similar capabilities. http://www.viaircorp.com/OffRoad/10008.html It should run around $300-$400 total. Once that's installed I can put a controller in for the airbags or maybe go with an airbag suspension for the lift when it's done.



Jack update: My Gal Friday had me check on the warranty and guess what? Yup, not warrantied. My dealer offered to find me something, no questions asked, but we agree that the Hi Lift is the better option so that's the route I'm taking and with Friday's blessing.

[eugene]

Hopefully along with a fuse the wire is protected and secured.
Until you get a compressor, you can get air tanks pretty cheap, fill it up at a gas station and strap on someplace.

[Tater Raider]

Hopefully along with a fuse the wire is protected and secured.
Until you get a compressor, you can get air tanks pretty cheap, fill it up at a gas station and strap on someplace.

Wire is better protected than it looks (it doesn't move, believe it or don't), but I should get a braided cover for it for the exposed bit under the hood and absolutely must take care of the fuse. Yes, I was a bit silly on how I did that but on the other hand it works.

When I run out of things to do at the time I will rerun the wire from the battery to the switch to ensure its safety.

In other news, I had forgotten that I had ordered a cargo carrier. It arrives tomorrow.

VA approved the Hi-Lift jack since I said it was the right tool for the job - that's one less thing to worry about. Mounting hardware, jack, stand, handle keeper, and bumper lift have been ordered. I debated a wheel lift but decided that it would be silly to lift the truck by the wheel to change a flat tire.

[Tater Raider]

GLEE!!!



Some assembly of the cargo carrier required.


This will be assembled then set aside. I'll be making notes on capacity and how to modify it to run front to back up top, but if the doc clears me for my planned vacation (and unless something horrifically goes wrong I can't see her not doing so) this will replace the bike rack for the duration.

Some might think this is bad, but I think it's good because I'll be able to see how much space it adds and how best to utilize it without the rest of the BOV's.

[Zagan]

HEY..That bring me that UPS...HA HA...

[Tater Raider]

Back from a nearly 6,000 mile, 2 week vacation/mock bug-out and I have reviews.

Jeep Wrangler as a bug-out vehicle:

The Good: Never once did Dusty have any reliability driving capability issues, including the Off-Road park.

The Bad: More than 2 people is cramped, we had 3 for the first 2 legs and 4 on the final day. The Wrangler has the low end grunt to get moving but anything in 5th and 6th gear (6sp manual) is a tall order in the mountains when loaded with gear.

The Ugly: Unless it's under 500 miles one-way and it's a family of 2, look elsewhere for your BOV. The Wrangler does a lot of things very well, but range, cargo capacity, and ride comfort are not among them. The trip ended close to 24 hours ago and my butt has feeling returning to it now - and I'm used to this. Yes, I'll live with this choice and consider it a happy mistake but it's still a mistake.

Solutions: Needs a trailer, seriously. Also confirmed some future mods like transfer tank, spare tire mounted fuel tanks, and power mods once the drivetrain warranty is up.

Back Trail Outfitters Canvas Roll Cage Duffel Bag and Between Roll Bar Saddle Bags:

The Good: Absolutely everything. They create storage where you have none and the space they take up isn't missed. Construction is rock-solid too. 1 saddlebag held an 8 day supply of clothing with 0 issues while the other held my tent and tent accessories plus a saw and hatchet.

The Bad: Installing on B Post of roll cage can be tricky - remove the door guard on soft-tops first, then reinstall.

The Ugly: Nothing.

VDP Trash Can:

The Good: Hey, I've got a trash can now, and still have cup-holders for the back seat!

The Bad: Severely cuts into legroom in an already cramped backseat.

The Ugly: The foot room was such an issue with Old Son at 5' 6" that he removed it and tossed it behind the seat into the cargo area - useless for trips over a few hours if anyone is riding in back.

Solutions: None needed - If you have a Wrangler and it might be used as a BOV you must get these.

AirLift 1000 Airbag Helper Suspension:

The Good: Good ride stability and much needed help with the amount of cargo I took.

The Bad: Valve Stem partly unscrewed itself in Wyoming. Repair was free but bought the mechanic a soda. (I didn't have the proper tool and it's so freaking obscure a tool I'm not convinced I prep-failed on it). On the second leg of my trip, California to Arkansas, I lost a heat shield on the exhaust and that caused me to lose the driver's side airbag.

The Ugly: Unhappy, I decided to order the Firestone kit for the Rubicon and was unpleasantly surprised to find that the AirLift bags were undersized for my application. Firestone bags appear more sturdy and are larger in diameter.

The Solution: After discovering a lost heat shield was the fault, I'm encasing that area of the exhaust run in some sort of heat shield tape before installing the new bags. If I go with an on-board air system at a later date I do plan to use the AirLift controller for the firestone airbags. I figure since each made their reputation in that specific area I could do worse.

My brother's mechanic suggested installing a rubber spacer but since the airbag works with the stock suspension and the rear springs are already progressive rate springs I'm sticking with the airbags for now. After the lift (70,000 miles and counting) I'll be reassessing this.

Receiver Hitch Cargo Rack:

The Good: Yay! Cargo room! Cargo room out of the wind so it doesn't mess with fuel economy too much!

The Bad: Even though the rack has a 500# weight limit capacity is limited by the hitch to 350#.

The Ugly: Short wheelbase plus cargo rack well behind the rear axle means handling was severely affected and once the helper springs went my low beams were aimed at oncoming driver's faces.

The Solution: Learn welding and move the rack to under the canoe (when loaded). There are still a lot of downsides to this (raised CG, increased wind resistance, lowered fuel economy when loaded) but it's the best solution from limited options.

VDP 6-pack Tube Cooler (roll cage mounted):

The Good: Easy to put on and take off and has an included shoulder strap.

The Bad: There is no place to mount these well on a JK due to the overhead sound bar.

The Ugly: It's a poor excuse for a cooler in the first place and it's painted black - stuff will not stay cool for long unless you make your own can-sized ice substitute to keep things cool and even then I think it's pushing it.

The Solution: Bring a real cooler on the cargo rack and move stuff from there to a 3-pack tube cooler (yes, they exsist) - fewer stops and better utilization of cargo space.

As for everything else, canoe and bikes were left behind - that cargo and MPG thing. Dusty has now been through a mock bug-out but not as intended - she cannot function with 4 people as intended at this time.

I'm not bothered. This is a slow process and it will serve for 1 person as intended, me, and that's all the family that lives with me so all-in-all I'd say I could have done worse. I could have done better too but this is what I have and I'm content with it.

[KJ4VOV]

Welcome back

Very nice report and write up.

[KJ4VOV]

AirLift 1000 Airbag Helper Suspension:[list]The Good: Good ride stability and much needed help with the amount of cargo I took.

The Bad: Valve Stem partly unscrewed itself in Wyoming. Repair was free but bought the mechanic a soda. (I didn't have the proper tool and it's so freaking obscure a tool I'm not convinced I prep-failed on it). On the second leg of my trip, California to Arkansas, I lost a heat shield on the exhaust and that caused me to lose the driver's side airbag.

You mean one of these?



Any good bike shop or auto supply will have 'em. Replace the regular cap on one wheel (or two if you're feeling paranoid) with one of these and you'll always have the tool. Put one on each bike too.

[Tater Raider]

AirLift 1000 Airbag Helper Suspension:

The Good: Good ride stability and much needed help with the amount of cargo I took.

The Bad: Valve Stem partly unscrewed itself in Wyoming. ...I didn't have the proper tool and it's so freaking obscure a tool I'm not convinced I prep-failed on it.

You mean one of these?



Any good bike shop or auto supply will have 'em. Replace the regular cap on one wheel (or two if you're feeling paranoid) with one of these and you'll always have the tool. Put one on each bike too.

Added to shopping list with my thanks and I'm moving the valve stem failure to prep-fail status as a result.

AirBag fail due to lost heat shield... sorta prep fail but I consider it more of a Live and Learn thing. Dusty goes up on the jack tomorrow for cleaning of the exhaust pipe and installation of heat tape stuff then new air bags as well as spring, bumpstop, and shock inspection.

I appreciate the compliment on the write-up. I've avoided some mistakes from reading what others have done and hope people do the same with this.



Added:

JK 2 door Soft Top Headliner by Bestop:

The Good: Last year the AC couldn't keep up so we went top-down, but for a long trip you can reduce fatigue and increase mpg with the top up. This headliner allowed the AC to handle downtown Pheonix, AZ at high noon comfortably. It was still cranked, but we weren't dying. Best of all, I got asked more than once to turn the AC down because it was "too cold in back."

The Bad: I wasn't able to use the space between the headliner and the top for the blankets as I had wanted to - needs stronger elastic for that.

The Ugly: The adhesive backing on the velcro to the header bar did fail prior to the trip due to heat. After removing it, I cleaned the header bar and velcro with alcohol, reglued it using rubber cement, then drilled several holes through the velcro into the header and pop-rivited it in place to ensure it stayed put this time.

The Solution: Pop-rivit that sucker in place when you first install it, then live with it. I see it for sale online around $100 but got mine massively discounted for $35 or so. It's worth what I paid for it, certainly no more than $50-$60.

If I decide to attempt the blanket thing again I'll be working with Daughter Unit on better and more elastic to keep the headliner tight with the bit of extra weight.

[KJ4VOV]

AirLift 1000 Airbag Helper Suspension:[list]The Good: Good ride stability and much needed help with the amount of cargo I took.

The Bad: Valve Stem partly unscrewed itself in Wyoming. ...I didn't have the proper tool and it's so freaking obscure a tool I'm not convinced I prep-failed on it.

You mean one of these?



Any good bike shop or auto supply will have 'em. Replace the regular cap on one wheel (or two if you're feeling paranoid) with one of these and you'll always have the tool. Put one on each bike too.

Added to shopping list with my thanks and I'm moving the valve stem failure to prep-fail status as a result.

Do get the caps, as discussed, but you might also want one of these for the toolbox:



This tool is used to repair damaged threads on a valve stem, or to remove a broken core. Just looking at it you should be able to figure how all four sides work, but feel free to ask any questions. You can usually find them in a good auto supply in the tire repair section. It's called a tire valve core tool and should be less than $5

[Tater Raider]

While on vacation I purchased a bumper sticker.


Thus began the zombification of Dusty


Once back, I began stressing. When I stress, I look for stuff. Sometimes I even buy it. In this case, I got a couple things.


This arrived on Saturday and it seemed to belong here.


Today this arrived.

I'm not happy with the bubbles I allowed to creep into the decals, but from more than a few feet away no one will notice so it stands for now. Eventually they will wear out and I'll replace them. Likely I'll have a pro install them just because they will last longer without any bubbles.


The overall effect is just what I wanted. You can also see the front bumper got bobbed.

I could see one more decal on there - a Skywarn tag when I manage to join up.

Up next, mirror relocation brackets so I can drive with the decals, I mean doors, off. Maybe I should have thought this through a bit more...

There is some bad news though: Dusty's rear window is busted. Warranty replacement application has been sent in - the fix is to replace the entire top. I'm not thrilled about this, but life goes on. If turned down I have a plan to deal with it - I give it about 50-50 odds.

[KJ4VOV]

Up next, mirror relocation brackets so I can drive with the decals, I mean doors, off. Maybe I should have thought this through a bit more...

There is some bad news though: Dusty's rear window is busted. Warranty replacement application has been sent in - the fix is to replace the entire top. I'm not thrilled about this, but life goes on. If turned down I have a plan to deal with it - I give it about 50-50 odds.

Seems to me you need one more decal... for the hood. Then it doesn't matter if the doors are on or off.