KnightoftheRoc wrote: colinz wrote:
StrikeEagle wrote:My question is: how do you hook them up to the house wiring? Can you just find an outlet, run some wire behind the wall, and splice in to it? I consider myself fairly handy, but I don't have much experience with electrical work.
An electrician should be able to run a new cable from the existing light switch by your backdoor to the new light fitting under the eave.
This would work, but I'd personally go another route.
I was only talking about running the cable from switch plate to the new light fitting, the assumption on my part was that the Electrician would have enough brains to fit a replacement switch plate suited to the needs of the owner.
KnightoftheRoc wrote:Not that they do it, but I've been arguing for a while (nearly 6 years now) that the exterior lights should NOT be on switches accessible to the residents- at present they are regular switches next to the doors going outside. I'd like to replace the switches with ones like they used in my high school, which took a little "wrench" type of 'key' to operate,
Analogues are commonly available in NZ.
Another sensor light control option is this...
One position is wired so that the sensor lights run automatically, the other is wired so that the stay on. Easy to do, and doesn't require the rediculous 'turn off, then on, then off, then on while standing upside down and holding your breath to activate the manual mode' that some products employ. The switch mechanism replaces a standard toggle switch in the plate.
KnightoftheRoc wrote:and to install automatic sensors for turning them on when it gets to a certain level of darkness. For a home, I'd go with motion sensors, instead. either would give you better energy savings and security than manually switching them on,
Just for clarities sake, daylight sensors are known as Photocells, and PIR sensors used on security lights usually have a photocell/similar function so they don't constantly trigger during the day. The sensor doesn't even have to be a part of the fitting, or even mounted anywhere near it, it just makes the wiring a tad more complex is all.
KnightoftheRoc wrote:and if you put them all on a single breaker circuit, a buzzer or other audible alert could be installed on that circuit so any light that goes on makes the signal go off, warning you of activity out in the yard.
Also available in NZ.
240VAC buzzer that replaces a switch mechanism in a standard switch plate. Again, the wiring gets a touch mroe complex, but it's easily doable to add one into the circuit.
KnightoftheRoc wrote:And, maintenance- who's changing the bulbs when they burn out? If it's you, be sure you have a means to reach the lights safely- this means a tall enough NON METALLIC ladder,
Good point, but I beg to differ on the ladder construction.
Fibreglass ladders are expensive and heavy as all frak, wooden ladders turn into useless pieces of poos rapidly, and there is no need for a homeowner to be changing lamps on a live circuit. An aluminium ladder will be fine for changing lamps in this situation, with minimal electrocution risk to the user, as long as the blardy circuit is isolated.
KnightoftheRoc wrote:I write up bulbs that are out, but am not allowed to change them...
There's some pretty good safety and liability reasons as to why you aren't allowed to change them, but it's a pain in the ass for sure.
KnightoftheRoc wrote:Automating both aspects with automatic switches (light sensor or motion sensor), and a regularly scheduled maintenance visit addresses both issues at minimum cost and down-time.