Picked up a Mosin Nagant 91-30

[mystic_1]

The MSDS for "Windex with Ammonia-D" includes the following:

Ammonium hydroxide 0.1% - 1.5% by weight


The MSDS for "Hoppes 9 Solvent" includes the following:

Ammonium Hydroxide 1% - 5% by weight


So unless I'm missing something, plain old Hoppes #9 contains more ammonia than Windex.



mystic_1

[ZomBosox]

I, therefore, run patches of several different products down the barrel while cleaning. One of those is Tipton's "Truly Remarkable Bore Solvent." I saw it had ammonia in the "ingredients," and, if I remember correctly, this helps a ton on corrosive stuff. After that it's some Hoppes anti-carbon stuff that's in a little spritzer (I've only ever handled mouthpiece cleanser in a container like this, but I know this description probably helps roughly zero percent of the people reading this) followed by some Barnes stuff (smells like Satan's urine, I can barely stand the stuff, but it works) and then some Winchester Break Free followed by some CLP Break Free.

Yep.

Seems a bit of overkill man. I use Butches to clean everything then a little CLP for lubrication. The bore cleaner will take care of every piece short of the wood. and it will "Neutrulize" the corrosive fouling left inside your rifle. The CLP will take of the rest. respectfully

[Polley]

The vast majority of my firearms cleaning techniques are considered overkill. My father even thinks I'm overly-anal about cleaning them, and he's the person that taught me pretty much everything I know. I tend to be a bit of a perfectionist in many things: work, art, writing, photography, et cetera, and I believe that has definitely carried over to my weapons cleaning. The plus side is that a lot of my firearms, aside from the usual wear marks, pretty much stay in like-new condition.

The downside is I have to buy cleaning supplies more often than other folks. I clean everything completely once a month even if it hasn't been fired. If I get bored I'll rub stuff down with oil any other day.

[Polley]

But! But! You don't get that beautiful Hoppes fragrance! I'd rather my rifle smelled like a manly-man's rifle than my bathroom mirror. That's right, my bathroom mirror: that's the room I poop in. That's no place for my beautiful milsurp-firing Yugo. M48 or Hungarian M44 carbine!

[Azrael723]

i want to sand down the stock on mine and refinish... something darker...

[Polley]

Don't they have black synthetic stocks?

[Azrael723]

they do. my cousin-in-law (lol) has one. its light and comfortable. i just like the original stock more. Ive seen em for between 100-150. dont quote me, i havent really shopped around for them...

[mystic_1]

The MSDS for "Windex with Ammonia-D" includes the following:

Ammonium hydroxide 0.1% - 1.5% by weight


The MSDS for "Hoppes 9 Solvent" includes the following:

Ammonium Hydroxide 1% - 5% by weight


So unless I'm missing something, plain old Hoppes #9 contains more ammonia than Windex.



mystic_1

Hopps solvent 1 qt = 19.00 $ http://www.amazon.com/Hoppes-No-Solvent ... 672&sr=8-1
Windex 26oz = 5.00 bucks http://www.drugstore.com/windex-origina ... tid=184281

I can afford a few more sprays

Point being, you'll be cleaning with Hoppes or somethings similar anyway, and it already contains ammonia, so the windex is a wasted step.

Besides:

Hoppes 1qt = 32 fl oz @ 5% = 1.75 oz of ammonia for $19 = $10.85 per oz
Windex 26oz @ 0.5% = 0.13 oz of ammonia for $5 = $384 per oz

So Hoppes ends up being the better deal in that sense too


mystic_1

[Polley]

they do. my cousin-in-law (lol) has one. its light and comfortable. i just like the original stock more. Ive seen em for between 100-150. dont quote me, i havent really shopped around for them...

I mean, I've only seen the Monte Carlo style stocks that have that "improved cheek rest" or whatever built into it (that, and I never liked the look of synthetics on an old surplus rifle). I know a guy who said he found out how to make the darkest wood stain he's ever come across: I rarely get to talk to him, but I suppose I might be able to talk to him about it sometime. He's a pretty cool guy, but not someone I'd mess with. He bit the head off of a pigeon once.

I might just call and ask him about it anyway so I have the "recipe" if I ever need it.

[Azrael723]

He bit the head off of a pigeon once.

OZZY OSBOURNE?

[Azrael723]

here is a pic of him with his Polymer? stock Nagant. it is such a small stock. makes the whole rifle look tiny. It was originally a black stock and he painted it tan.

[Polley]

No, even better: a guy who would roll cars small cars (not push) for fun in the 1970s and '80s when he was, uh... "inspired" to do so. He knows his hunting firearms pretty well though: makes his own stocks occasionally.


To comment on the photo above: wouldn't that be a sniper variant of the Mosin? It has a down-turned bolt handle.

[Azrael723]

To comment on the photo above: wouldn't that be a sniper variant of the Mosin? It has a down-turned bolt handle.

it is an aftermarket bolt handle he installed.

[Polley]

To comment on the photo above: wouldn't that be a sniper variant of the Mosin? It has a down-turned bolt handle.

it is an aftermarket bolt handle he installed.

Thank God: now I'm not saddened by the drilling and tapping of the receiver.

[Azrael723]

Thank God: now I'm not saddened by the drilling and tapping of the receiver.

I felt the same way. he got a great deal on his, as i did mine. That is why i have no qualms with sanding and refinishing my stock. I am by nature a bit of a purist.

[ZomBosox]

Thank God: now I'm not saddened by the drilling and tapping of the receiver.

There is a shop on eBay that if you send your bolt handle to them out in Arizona i think they will machine it to have the sniper bolt and it will look exactly like the original sniper version. it allows you to have a smooth finish and keep the same serial numbered part. its like 35 bucks but it was worth it. they extend the bolt and turn it at a 45 degree angle

[colinz]

An M44 from Hungry is not your typical 91-30 from Russia. $175 is a heck of a deal.

I can vouch for this. My 1953 (? circle something or other) M44 is a lot nicer in fit and finish than my 1944 Russian M44.

Both set me back $NZ400, which isn't too bad, especially considering that they are quite hard to find over here now.

M91/30's are around the $NZ250 mark still.

[Azrael723]

Starting to look like i need to drive up to Indiana and get some cheap Nagants and sell em!!!

[nc77089]

I picked up 2 more today, both from 1942. Mine is an Izzy and the one I got the father in law was from Tula.
Mine will be a good project gun it has been counter bored. And one of the serial numbers are force matched. I am going to try and post pics during the process.

[shoggoth80]

It's not the ammonia that neutralizes the potassium chloride... it's the water in the Windex, and the water rinse in that tutorial. The salts are hygroscopic, and will attract water, conversely they are also water soluble.Hot water/soap tends to work best in my experience. Plenty of it, dry really well after. Clean like normal. However, ammonia is a good copper fouling solvent, and will also cut through some of the gunk left in the bore. So Windex that contains ammonia is pretty ok for that task. Some guys use a funnel and hose, some guys use a cut off bottom of milk jug, a bucket... I've used a measuring cup and some paper towels to plug the bores and fill with hot water repeatedly. I've used a jug of water, and water soaked patches when out at an outdoor shooting pit.
I know the water part throws off a lot of newer folk in terms of cleaning after shooting corrosively primed ammo. It's really not hard, and the topic does tend to pop up rather frequently.
IF you are ever in doubt as to whether a particular ammo is corrosive or not... clean as if it is, because it is better to err on the side of caution than to let a good tool rust.

[Polley]

It's not the ammonia that neutralizes the potassium chloride... it's the water in the Windex, and the water rinse in that tutorial. The salts are hygroscopic, and will attract water, conversely they are also water soluble.Hot water/soap tends to work best in my experience. Plenty of it, dry really well after. Clean like normal. However, ammonia is a good copper fouling solvent, and will also cut through some of the gunk left in the bore. So Windex that contains ammonia is pretty ok for that task. Some guys use a funnel and hose, some guys use a cut off bottom of milk jug, a bucket... I've used a measuring cup and some paper towels to plug the bores and fill with hot water repeatedly. I've used a jug of water, and water soaked patches when out at an outdoor shooting pit.
I know the water part throws off a lot of newer folk in terms of cleaning after shooting corrosively primed ammo. It's really not hard, and the topic does tend to pop up rather frequently.
IF you are ever in doubt as to whether a particular ammo is corrosive or not... clean as if it is, because it is better to err on the side of caution than to let a good tool rust.

I always figured that, since you can evaporate ocean water and have salt left behind, that the same applied to cleaning corrosive salts out of the bore.

[CountryJim]

I was picking up my son's birthday present (a 10-22) at Big 5 today and saw a 91-30 on sale for $99.99. I couldn't resist the urge to purchase it. I have never shot a Mosin, I can't wait to pick it up and head to the range.

Stay Safe.

[Polley]

I was picking up my son's birthday present (a 10-22) at Big 5 today and saw a 91-30 on sale for $99.99. I couldn't resist the urge to purchase it. I have never shot a Mosin, I can't wait to pick it up and head to the range.

Stay Safe.

I keep hearing about them kicking like a mule, but I actually find them to kick about the same as any other rifle of mine (I shoot AKs the most and I don't consider it that big of a change). Perhaps it's my stance, but I haven't had any issues at all with the kick, nor have my brother, father, or uncle.

[mystic_1]

The carbine variants kick a little more, the full length ones aren't bad if you swap out the steel butt plate.

mystic_1