Bowmanship Thread

[Kissing-Tom]

Ah, in the first time, the link doesn´t work. I try to build this thing tomorrow and write a feedback.

Beste Grüße, Tom.

[ForgeCorvus]

They are used in some Flight Disciplines* as they're not mechanical release aids.
A very brisk loose with a flatter trajectory , takes a little getting used to..... I didn't spend enough time on it as I bought a longbow

Useful with short bows where there might not be room to get your fingers on the string and you don't want to use a thumb loose


* To save Googling. Flight is all about distance, there is no target

[Regular Guy]

Picked up a finger saver dealio, 5 Alum. Easton arrows and 100gr target points.
Will report on if this works any better than my son's arrows.

[northernxposure]

http://www.second-opinions.co.uk/flight-flipper.html

Is that the actual name for those? We always used to call the "chew straps", for obvious reasons if you've ever seen what a mongrel can do to a piece of rawhide. A lot of older archers I know that have lost a lot of their finger strength use those - I've also seen guys that have high poundage bows with short AMO's (less than 58") sometimes use them.

They do work - I've been schooled a couple times by guys using them.

ForgeCorvus - I mentioned about the thumb ring and it's classification as a "release aid". In competitions here in the states, they really break things down to separate all the different classifications of bows. Guys that use wooden arrows/non glass bows/no sights/no stringwalking/no "release aids" *but they'll let you use a tab or glove, go figure* would fall into either traditional or primitive depending on the rules for the specific association you're shooing at. Some competitions say that bows without sights, cams and elevated rests fall into "traditional". It can be very confusing, which is why I mentioned it.

I know a lot of guys I've shot with were very surprised when they went from "traditional" to "open" class because they string walk, or use carbon arrows, or have some kind of pin sight on their old Fred Bear. No one likes to shoot open class - even the guys in open class.

NXP

[Kissing-Tom]

OK,... I built "flight flipper" with thin leather. One side smooth, one side rough.
I took a glasfibred longbow with 45#. Normal Dacron String. 13 threads. So, it´s very difficult to get the "flipper" on the right position.
Left hand on the bow and with the right hand operate. The first time I need 1 minute to tense the bow.
Ok, I can hold the weight with this thing, it was no problem. Then the release.
I opened my thumb and the string thrilled my hand a short distance with it. May be I must use smoother leather on both sides.
But in the end, it isn´t practicable to get the flipper on the string. May be, it will be more simply when the leather know the marks after few shootings.
I don´t know. I need another leather to make a new flipper. Then I will try it next time.

In my opinion, when it will be practicable, it will be used more. But I shoot the bow for years more and more, I went to many tournaments and I didn´t see the flipper anytime.

Beste Grüße, Tom.


I hope, my english is not so bad!




EDIT!

So, now i´m a little bit smarter. I posted the link in German Archery Forums and get much answers. The "Flight Flipper" will be used for "Flight-Shootings". Means, when you will shoot over a long distance.
So, only the distance counts, not how fast you shoot or exactly.
And I tested the Flipper repeatedly and I see my failure. The both inner leather straps were to long. Know I hold the string only with the outer leather strap and the inner straps are only around the string.
Now it works better. It´s interesting to shoot, but even not practicable, because I must twist the hand in a uncomfortable position. Other muscles then by "traditional" releases works.
I´m a 3D and Field Archer so I think, I will use my glove furthermore.

[SavageArcher]

I added another bow to my collection. It's the PSE Mustang T/D. 45#@28" and is a fairly inexpensive bow at $209 plus tax. The finish is a little rough and from what I suspect it's made for PSE by either Samik or Ragim. I like it. It'll make a good all round bow for roving, small to medium game and bow fishing. Gonna cover the limbs with some Gorilla duct tape in Mossy Oak and find a decent quiver to mount on it.

Went to the Easton site and checked arrow selection and keep coming up with 2216s for all my bows. Just happened to have some laying around the work shop and for whatever reason they just don't shoot that well even with 5" feathers. Seems all my bows like the Carbon Express 65/75s so I'm gonna stick to them for now.

[Regular Guy]

All you need now is the cloak RG

Overt.

Full stealth mode.

[northernxposure]

RG - Win.

SavageArcher - The PSE is a Ragim. I vote rattle can over the duct tape (duct tape works, but in BFE TX I'd imagine as the temps go up so will your frustration as the camo becomes a sticky mess). For cheap/great quiver see if you can't find a Qwicky Quiver - they can be found for around $20, hold 4-6 arrows, and can pop off the bow if you need them too. The mounting brackets are cheap also, I usually pick up a couple and mount them to my stands, even the side of an old pack so I can click it on there if I want to.

NXP

[SavageArcher]

NXP I got the qwickie quiver but it rattles a bit too much for me. Found and old 90's PSE quiver that's in good condition and it's pretty quite and stable. It's only four arrows but that's plenty for my needs. I don't want to spend much money on this bow, it's just my beat the shit out of bow.

[northernxposure]

NXP I got the qwickie quiver but it rattles a bit too much for me. Found and old 90's PSE quiver that's in good condition and it's pretty quite and stable. It's only four arrows but that's plenty for my needs. I don't want to spend much money on this bow, it's just my beat the shit out of bow.

Wow it (the Qwickie) rattles? I must have two different versions of those things and neither one makes a peep! They must have changed the mold in the bracket mount area... a good trick (and something you should consider doing if you haven't) is to mole skin the shelf in case you drop the arrow off the rest. Won't clang as loud - and if you run into rattles with removable items like the quiver, you can put a small strip on the inside of the bracket to eat up some wiggle room and kill anything that's still there.

The Old PSE quivers are nice too - is it the two piece that bolts to the riser or the removable one? The only thing I didn't care for on those was that they never made an insert to hold onto the really small diameter carbon arrows, so when I switched to those I had to get a new quiver.

NXP

[Kissing-Tom]

Hello everybody,
http://www.google.de/imgres?q=redman+lo ... 29,r:0,s:0

I have a question: Does anybody knows this bow, or better,...does anybody have this bow?----->
It´s funny, the bow comes from Germany, but I don´t know any people, who have this thing. I have read that is was a bestseller in the U.S.A., so, maybe anybody here have a notion about.
I want to buy this bow, because I hope, a long recurve forgives a little failure.

Best greetings, Tom

[prtp3warrior]

Hello everybody,
http://www.google.de/imgres?q=redman+lo ... 29,r:0,s:0

I have a question: Does anybody knows this bow, or better,...does anybody have this bow?----->
It´s funny, the bow comes from Germany, but I don´t know any people, who have this thing. I have read that is was a bestseller in the U.S.A., so, maybe anybody here have a notion about.
I want to buy this bow, because I hope, a long recurve forgives a little failure.

Best greetings, Tom

Don't know a lot about that bow but I do know that there are nice older recurves available for much much less.


As for the op. If the video you posted was you shooting, and you are having trouble with right drift, It looks to me that it is how you are gripping your bow.

In the video you have your hand wrapped completely around the grip. If you hold it like that, the least bit of squeeze in your hand will bring your aim to the right.


Try it. Hold the bow on the grip with your left hand and squeeze and release and watch the bow go to the right slightly. Better to make a v shape between your thumb and your other fingers and just let the bow sit there.

Watch archers and see how the bow falls away after their shot. They are not dropping their arm, the bow is simply falling from gravity after the shot because they are not gripping it. They are just making a place for it to sit. Tension holds it in place until the shot is away.

[Kissing-Tom]

I do not understand,...what a video?

But I understand, what you say and I am in your opinion. I only grip my bow with two fingers and my thumb. My most make failure is, that I have an ugly release. Most time I take the string to hard by rthe right side.
But I am working on it. The shit is that, I become accustomed this failure. It is pretty difficult to get it out of the mind and body.

Best greetings, Tom

[prtp3warrior]

Very true Tom about breaking those habits. I tend to pull off on my release as well when shooting traditional equipment.

[slik_pulla]

All you need now is the cloak RG

Overt.

Full stealth mode.

is that a samick sage? if so great choice i love that bow

[Regular Guy]

Yes, it is a Sammich Sage. I love it. I bought the 35# limbs and I'm glad I did. I'm planning on getting another with 25# limbs for my wife, son, daughter.

[SByrd89]

Looking for a cheap decent bow for small game/target shooting. Any suggestions?

I went to restring mine the other day and discovered it had a pretty bad twist in the lower limb, i want to try to fix it as well but would still like to find a 25lb for small critters and just target shooting since i have plenty of arrows from my brothers old bow that he snapped in a fit of rage one day.

[Shiloh]

Looking for a cheap decent bow for small game/target shooting. Any suggestions?

I went to restring mine the other day and discovered it had a pretty bad twist in the lower limb, i want to try to fix it as well but would still like to find a 25lb for small critters and just target shooting since i have plenty of arrows from my brothers old bow that he snapped in a fit of rage one day.

The Sage is a great little recurve for a really affordable price. Don't own one myself, but I got to try one out a little while back and enjoyed it, though I'm more of a longbow man myself.

In other news, I made my first flemish string! Black and red Dacron B50, with a plaited loop on one end and timber hitch on the other. I'll be using this one on a bow I'm making for a friend, in return for a hand-made leather side quiver. It's good to have friends in the SCA.

[SByrd89]

Ive also always preferred to shoot longbow if i have a choice, but could never afford a decent one and only recently learned what it takes to make one. One thing on a very long list of things to do eventually.

[ineffableone]

Ive also always preferred to shoot longbow if i have a choice, but could never afford a decent one and only recently learned what it takes to make one. One thing on a very long list of things to do eventually.

Some decent longbows that wont break the bank can be found at KP Archery http://stores.ebay.com/KP-Archery?_trksid=p4340.l2563

They sell longbows for $35-$50! Yep that low, you will end up paying more for arrows than the bow probably. Shipping is only around $15 so this is a good deal. Now I don't have one myself but have had a few friends who have gotten them and swear they are decent, not great but decent. For the price This could get you by and shooting while you make your own or save up for something better.

Just wanted to put out this option for ya.

[ineffableone]

Looking for a cheap decent bow for small game/target shooting. Any suggestions?

I went to restring mine the other day and discovered it had a pretty bad twist in the lower limb, i want to try to fix it as well but would still like to find a 25lb for small critters and just target shooting since i have plenty of arrows from my brothers old bow that he snapped in a fit of rage one day.

KP Archery http://stores.ebay.com/KP-Archery?_trksid=p4340.l2563 has a 30# long bow for $46.95

[zenger]

I have a handed down bow from my Grandpa it's a Shakespeare Wonderbow The Yukon X24, 60" 35# Fiberglass laminated recurve.

Anyone can tell if it's strong enough to hunt with? Small game? Deer?
It hasn't had a string on it in a decade, should I be careful trying to restring it and use it? Is it liable to break? I'm thinking in terms of maintaining with oil or the like which it hasn't had.

Is this model worth anything? I've tried my hand at looking it up on the net but found little to nothing.

Any help would be appreciated

[ineffableone]

I have a handed down bow from my Grandpa it's a Shakespeare Wonderbow The Yukon X24, 60" 35# Fiberglass laminated recurve.

Anyone can tell if it's strong enough to hunt with? Small game? Deer?
It hasn't had a string on it in a decade, should I be careful trying to restring it and use it? Is it liable to break? I'm thinking in terms of maintaining with oil or the like which it hasn't had.

Is this model worth anything? I've tried my hand at looking it up on the net but found little to nothing.

Any help would be appreciated

35# is the lower end for hunting, small game sure it is a decent bow for that but larger game like deer many states wont allow you to hunt deer with 35# though I think some will.

Now an old fiberglass bow, is it safe? I really don't know but I would be a bit worried about the lamination and it breaking. You could test it out on a tillering jig to see if it can take the strain. I do know fiberglass does degrade in the sun, but I am guessing it was stored indoors, probably in a dark closet, attic, basement, or garage.

I imagine you will probably get some others who are more experienced with fiberglass bows along soon who might be able to help on how safe it is.

[zenger]

Wood with fiberglass laminate if that makes a difference

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