Moderator: ZS Global Moderators
ForgeCorvus wrote:Shooting off the knuckle or a rest?
ForgeCorvus wrote:Finger or mechanical release?
ForgeCorvus wrote:Joerg uses Theraband (?) in the gold colour in his monsters, perhaps it would be good for this (design might need beefing up though)
Like the idea, execution is pretty good looking. More field trials and some clinical target work are needed.
Could you post materials and sizes so we can all have a go?
Regular Guy wrote:Alright, I think I've found the bow for me. A Martin takedown jaguar with 30 and 55# limbs. Thoughts?
silentpoet wrote:My first two warning shots are aimed center of mass. If that don't warn them I fire warning shots at their head until they are warned enough that I am no longer in fear for my life.
northernxposure wrote:Regular Guy wrote:Alright, I think I've found the bow for me. A Martin takedown jaguar with 30 and 55# limbs. Thoughts?
Samick Sage or GTFO.
(I never get to do that to Regular Guy...)
Regular Guy wrote:northernxposure wrote:Regular Guy wrote:Alright, I think I've found the bow for me. A Martin takedown jaguar with 30 and 55# limbs. Thoughts?
Samick Sage or GTFO.
(I never get to do that to Regular Guy...)
Awesome, the Samick Sage bow looks nice and they have limbs for $60. Any thoughts on getting 30# and 55# limbs? Too heavy? Too light? I'd like a set up for shooting in the yard and set up for actual hunting.
northernxposure wrote:55# will kill everything in North America. Except maybe a polar bear. I'm not sure on the polar bear. It's also MUCH easier to draw and hold when it's 20degs out and you've been sitting dead still for 3 hours.
Quietus wrote:northernxposure wrote:55# will kill everything in North America. Except maybe a polar bear. I'm not sure on the polar bear. It's also MUCH easier to draw and hold when it's 20degs out and you've been sitting dead still for 3 hours.
It would be wise to consult local laws when it comes to hunting.
Around here we measure hunting bows in joules and for a 55 lbs bow to be legal for hunting anything other than rabbits and similar, it would have to be very fast, to compensate for the low drawweight.
northernxposure wrote:I'd be interested to see what archery game laws are in Europe - I know that archery as a method of hunting was viewed for a long time as a poacher's tool and was not approved for a long time. If you have J/KE requirements, what are they (obviously these will be different depending on the country)? I was talking with a guy from France about archery hunting, he mentioned that they needed MUCH heavier bows which I thought was odd - well, not if you're using a compound, as a 70# compound is very common for hunting here, but 70# is much less common in hunting with traditional archery equipment. I believe the last poll I saw on TG put the bulk of the responses in the low 50's, with the next highest being the upper 40's, and then finally the upper 50's. Bows shooting over 60#'s for hunting where very low.
Quietus wrote:I'm not going to go over all the rules here, but lets take the Samick Sage that you suggested as an example.
For some reason I could only find speeds for that model, up to 40 lbs "28 inches with 472 grain arrow. In Denmark, you could not legally hunt anything with that. Nothing. Not even a squirrel.
Regardless of game, the absolute least amount of energy that a bow must produce (with approved arrow weight and head), is 40 joules. And higher categories have higher minimum energy requirements.
So there is a good reason why we use heavier traditional bows. As they are commonly not as fast as compounds (for the same drawweight), The only way to compensate, is to use a heavier bow.
Bow hunting also requires a licence (bows do not, but hunting with them does). After a theoretical exam, the practical test requires you to be able to correctly gauge distances by eye and consistently produce clean kill shots on 3d targets at various distances.
But before you get to that point, you need to complete a course which will usually take about 6 months. And you need to be a licensed hunter before you can start (rifle or shotgun).
This needs to be repeated every 5 years.
You also need to take the test, with the type of bow that you plan on hunting with. Logical, since a good compound archer might not no so well with a longbow.
I hope this helps shed some light on things
northernxposure wrote:The only place I've been to that actively required a "test of competency" was hunting on military installations. If you couldn't hit the kill zone from multiple yards and elevation points, you were not granted a permit to hunt the base.
northernxposure wrote:I'm interested in the J/KE thing though - do you base it off of manufacturer's specs, or can you build an arrow to meet the requirements? KE = 0.5(m*v^2), where J = (kg*(m/s^2)) if I'm not mistaken..
Quietus wrote:Do you means manufactures specs on bows or arrows?
Arrows are build to each archers specifications (at least I don't know anyone who buys "off the rack" arrows").
As long as the heads comply with the rules, the only other thing to consider is the weight.
Then it is a simple matter of putting it through a chrono
I don't quite understand why you guys just go by drawweight. There are to many variables. between a Hoyt Carbon Element RKT (potentially my next compound ) and a longbow, there can be as much as 200 fps difference.
northernxposure wrote:RegGuy -
Tell your boy - AWESOME JOB!! Now to get that "group" a little tighter.
What's your budget, there's a LOT of manufacturers out there - and with the new models be introduced in November, there's a lot of last years bows on the shelves that need to be moved out to make room for the new stuff. *If you weren't spending all your monies at PSA you could already have one*
Doc Torr wrote:This is where the archers and archer wanna-be's hang out, right?
Okay, so where do i start. Like, if you were going to teach a student who's bow experience starts and ends with shooting plungers from a copper pipe and 550 cord (I got bored in Iraq) how would you start? Compound, recurve? What arrows? What other gear goes with it?
I'd like to learn to bowhunt someday, and fletch my own shafts someday (that sounded dirty...) but before that, I figured I'd come to you all for the "starter kit" advice. I'm not looking to compete or anything, and I should have plenty of room to start shooting when I get stateside.
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 3 guests