The Dusty Rose Project - '11 JK w/ Product Reviews

[Tperkins]

Coming along nice, I like it. You could always buy a spare set of shitty 31" tires and wheels to put on for when you need to go to the dealership, and switch back to 33's or higher when your back home haha.

[Tater Raider]

Santa visited my place Saturday. He drove a FedEx truck and there was so much excitement at what he left on the porch that even the cats had to check it out. It turned out to be the light bar I ordered from Rugged Ridge through Amazon.com. Free shipping and it shows up 3 days later? I'm very happy with their service on this item.


(t to b, 'Vester, Blink, and Bella checking out the light bar)


We are in a cold snap. Windchills the past couple of days has been around -20°F, but Young Son insisted that we had to install the light bar. He did most of the work and we checked each other's to make sure we got it right. We did have one disagreement. I insisted on reading the instructions, he refused to. A man card ended up getting involved.

So we bundled up (no garage) and gathered our supplies then into the cold we went.

The light bar came in 3 sections, 2 base plates and a top bar. The baseplates are designed to replace the windshield bracket on the JK so step one was to remove them, or so Young Son thought. Instructions said to mask off the area around the bracket to protect the finish of the truck. Who has 2 thumbs and his man card? This guy.




Once that was done, Young Son got out the torx-head and removed the 6 bolts which I set aside to reuse in a bit. I removed the brackets once the bolts were out because Jeep does use a bit of adheasive to tack them into place at the factory and if Dusty is gonna get a new ding then I'm the one putting it in her. After that, the base plates were installed, sorta. Instructions said to only put on the 4 outside bolts and to not tighten them up.


(Young Son in shorts at -18°F windchill, removing the Driver's Side bracket)



(Passenger Side bracket already in place)


At this point you install lights on the top bar. It has holes predrilled complete with gaskets to protect the wiring, which you run through the bar, then the base plate, then the hole exposed by removing the bracket. Yes, Jeep kept in mind that people add aftermarket lighting. Since I'm not messing with wiring until it's much, much warmer, like 50°F or so, we did something else.

Young Son's legs were cold at this point (Hey, if the kid who outweighs me, wrestles, plays line, both ways, in football, and has 30# on me wants to wear shorts he gets to wear shorts) so we went inside. We then went ahead and sealed the wiring holes with liquid gasket to protect the tube from the elements until I put in lighting.


(Rubber cement would have been cheaper and is nearly the same thing, but I recommend following directions)


Once it cured, we went back outside and slid it into the tubes on the base plates. 1 bolt/side secures it in place, and that bolt came with the bar. Installation notes: make sure you use two people on this. The bar isn't heavy, but making sure it goes down evenly on both sides is difficult to do by yourself. We got hung up at one point so he stood on the ground and pulled while I opened the sunroof (I don't care what Jeep calls it, it's a f****n' sunroof), stood on teh seatback, and put my weight on it from above. I ended up hitting the bar with a free hand because it still wasn't moving and it slid right in. We should have left a gap in the outside bracket bolts instead of snugging them down hand-tight.

The last thing to do is go ahead and install the inside bracket bolts, then tighten everything up.


(Young Son about to go back inside while I finish tightening things down)



(Installation complete and Young Son waiting for me to stop taking pictures and go pick up the Sunday Comics)



(Another view of the completed installation)


Initial impressions (after 200 miles of driving):

• A light bar like this does increase wind noise. Rugged Ridge knows this and welded a small piece of metal accros the entire crossbar to reduce the noise of a soft-top in the winde though and it seems to work but at high speeds the noise level ends up being about the same from the driver's seat.
• One of the light brackets was either welded on crookedly or damaged in shipping. It's nothing a pair of vice grips and a washcloth to protect the finish can't fix so I don't see the need to bother with customer service.
• Young Son and I put at least 300# of weight on that bar between the two of us. While not a roll cage substitution it can more than handle the heavy end of a canoe over the top plus the lighting later on.
• Because of the mounting method, it almost looks like it is a MOPAR part or a factory option.
• Anyone who knows what a torx-head wrench is can install. If someone doesn't know, their local auto-parts stors or a Sears and Roebuck will be happy toexplain what one is and then sell it.
• Installation time, not counting the 2 hours for the liquid gasket to dure, was under an hour.
• Since the bar mounts replace the windshield brackets, other Rugged Ridge products that mount there are fully compatable (and likely other manufacturer's as well).

If you have a JK, I recommend this lightbar. I give it 4½ out of 5 blinding lights.

The roof rack is en route, but the airbags haven't shipped yet. Given the weather and how involved the process is, the airbags will wait until the weather warms up to install.

[Tater Raider]

Upon closer inspection, the tab that looked like it had been bent was actually welded on crookedly. As much as this cost I decided that I wanted one that was made right so contacted Rugged Ridge.

I'm less than impressed with their customer service. Even though the issue is a manufacturer defect they wanted me to take it up with the vendor. I honestly do not understand why they have a warranty on their products if they want me to take it up at the point of sale. Due to this, I'm modifying the review on the light bar to 3½ out of 5 blinding lights. Sorry, but I expect excellent customer service, not a passing of the buck. I still like the product though.

After several attempts I managed to locate an 800 number for Amazon.com and used it. While I had difficulty understanding Marie Anne, the CS Rep, she was nothing but polite and took care of everything right then, quickly, efficiently, and in a way that made me much happier about the whole mess. Not only is a replacement getting shipped, it's getting shipped overnight. In addition, they understand about the return and are having it picked up at my house. Between how much business I now do at Amazon.com and the great coustomer service experience, I look forward to doing more business there and will compare the customer service I get elsewhere with Amazon to see how it stacks up.

Marie Anne, I told you I'd let ZS know about you and how well you took care of things.

Review for Amazon.com: 5 out of 5 dog-eared pages.

I should have another update tomorrow.

[Tperkins]

Upon closer inspection, the tab that looked like it had been bent was actually welded on crookedly. As much as this cost I decided that I wanted one that was made right so contacted Rugged Ridge.

I'm less than impressed with their customer service. Even though the issue is a manufacturer defect they wanted me to take it up with the vendor. I honestly do not understand why they have a warranty on their products if they want me to take it up at the point of sale. Due to this, I'm modifying the review on the light bar to 3½ out of 5 blinding lights. Sorry, but I expect excellent customer service, not a passing of the buck. I still like the product though.

After several attempts I managed to locate an 800 number for Amazon.com and used it. While I had difficulty understanding Marie Anne, the CS Rep, she was nothing but polite and took care of everything right then, quickly, efficiently, and in a way that made me much happier about the whole mess. Not only is a replacement getting shipped, it's getting shipped overnight. In addition, they understand about the return and are having it picked up at my house. Between how much business I now do at Amazon.com and the great coustomer service experience, I look forward to doing more business there and will compare the customer service I get elsewhere with Amazon to see how it stacks up.

Marie Anne, I told you I'd let ZS know about you and how well you took care of things.

Review for Amazon.com: 5 out of 5 dog-eared pages.

I should have another update tomorrow.

Are you allowed to call it a light bar without lights? Just Kidding. Do you have any plans on what lights you want to install? You should drink the Rigid Industries cool-aid...

[Tater Raider]

Are you allowed to call it a light bar without lights? Just Kidding. Do you have any plans on what lights you want to install? You should drink the Rigid Industries cool-aid...

Even though I'm not using it for lights? Hey, they named it...

I think I'll pick up a pair of 6" KC Apollo in black to start with, then I'm looking at getting high-end lights every 6 mo.-1 year until I have enough to burn a deer's shadow into the pavement. I'll move around the KC lights until I run out of places to put them. It's part of the "go slow" build nature of this beast.

Hella looks good to me but I'm open to suggestions. Not IR lamps, but LED and HID are both on the menu. More light is better, but at the same time I like the lights where the lenses are blacked out when the light is off. Feel free to toss opinions in the hat. 6"-7" round is prefered, 7" is max.

Light plan:

Lightbar:
4 pencil beams
Spotlight center mounted with in-dash remote
Windshield Brackets:
2 "Cornering" lights (cross between fog and driving lamps)
Front bumper:
1 driving light, preferably one that aims the beam when turning (I never knew they made such a thing until lately)
2 fog lamps
In Back:
2 backup lights mounted in rear bumper or on either side of spare

Lightbar and windshield lamps need covers except for the spotlight, or need to look like it at least.

Also, funny thing on Rugged Ridge: Rugged Ridge makes the some of the MOPAR brand aftermarket parts.

EtA: I may use a cornering light for the driving lamp as well... deer are pretty much rats with antlers up here and I don't need one going through my grill. Also, Air Bags finally shipped today and I should get the replacement light bar and the roof rack tomorrow.

[Tperkins]

I think those moving-beam driving lights are kind of gimmiky for what its worth. If you have a good cornering setup you shouldnt really need them. Honestly, I dont know what your inital budget looks like, but the Rigid Industries Dually's are only about $180 a pair, and in a driving configuration they're pretty kickass. You can add some of the LED lights KJ4VOV has on his truck for your cornering lights and reverse lights, and then eventually upgrade to something like a 10" or 20" Rigid Bar for your roof. It really wouldnt be much more in the long run than a bunch of Hella/KC/Ect mixes. Hella 550 or 750's do make great fog lights however, but compare pricewise to Rigid pretty closely. Do you have an inital outlay budget? Ex. $300 to start for lights and then add from there, or a maximum budget, or both?

Edit, assuming your listing of about 10 different lights, I would assume each would be between $50-$100, and with that budget you could do some pretty kickass rigid setup. Also, are you looking at the GoLight spotlights? I've been doing the same, and I'd like to get one of their ~$180 mag mount remote control ones for SAR Ops and Scene lighting, they get pretty awesome reviews.

[kcor_77]

I read in the chat thread you are installing a roof rack. What brand did you go with. Also you going to do any work to the cage to reinforce it?

[Tater Raider]

I think those moving-beam driving lights are kind of gimmiky for what its worth. If you have a good cornering setup you shouldnt really need them. Honestly, I dont know what your inital budget looks like, but the Rigid Industries Dually's are only about $180 a pair, and in a driving configuration they're pretty kickass. You can add some of the LED lights KJ4VOV has on his truck for your cornering lights and reverse lights, and then eventually upgrade to something like a 10" or 20" Rigid Bar for your roof. It really wouldnt be much more in the long run than a bunch of Hella/KC/Ect mixes. Hella 550 or 750's do make great fog lights however, but compare pricewise to Rigid pretty closely. Do you have an inital outlay budget? Ex. $300 to start for lights and then add from there, or a maximum budget, or both?

Edit, assuming your listing of about 10 different lights, I would assume each would be between $50-$100, and with that budget you could do some pretty kickass rigid setup. Also, are you looking at the GoLight spotlights? I've been doing the same, and I'd like to get one of their ~$180 mag mount remote control ones for SAR Ops and Scene lighting, they get pretty awesome reviews.

Okay, whole list of things here so in order:

• I see what you are saying on the cornering beams and agree. If old tech works, why use a new gimmick?
• I looked at Rigid and I will likely go with my one driving light as being from there or VisionX and use a light bar on a license plate bracket as my "driving light", seeing as I'm only allowed 3 aux. lights and already have a pair of fog lamps.
• Initial budget is figure out what my list of mods is, what equipment I think will resolve it best, and then price it. Money isn't an object but it is a consideration - build might take longer but I'll end up happier.
• If a light that best serves me costs $450 (and I've looked at one in that price range), then that's what I'll go with.
• I definitely covet a GoLight.

I read in the chat thread you are installing a roof rack. What brand did you go with. Also you going to do any work to the cage to reinforce it?

I got a HighRock (read: Bestop) 4x4 Roof Rack with Universal Rack from Quadratec and installed per instructions. No reinforcement done to it and it has a cargo capacity of 150#.
So here’s how it went down:

I got my replacement light bar and the roof rack at the same time. Reinstallation of the light bar was no issue, but if going it alone I recommend changing the instructions a bit. Assemble the bar but don’t tighten anything down. Open the front part of your top and climb into the Jeep then lower the light bar into place. Install all windshield bracket bolts to hand tight, then tighten everything up evenly.

If you already have lights on the bar, recommended by the way, then it’s a two-man job unless you want to risk smashing your lights if the bar falls 6’ to the ground.

Light bar installed, it was time to go at the roof rack.

On the roof rack, the packaging had busted open and some hardware got lost. Quadratec is shipping it no questions asked. Win for their customer service department. I also contacted Bestop and let them know of the packaging issue and they explained to me that warranties are now done through Point Of Sale (POS – it fits sometimes) because the POS has a purchase record. Makes sense and beats the “that’s how we do things” explanation of Rugged Ridge.

Digging into the goodies more closely I noticed several issues with the finish of the product. Powdercoating had been rubbed off in some areas, the cargo rack had seen some cosmetic damage, etc. As the color isn’t flat black I’m repainting it anyways and I plan to drive it into wooded areas which will scuff it up anyways I decided, “Meh, live with it.” Bad choice.

While assembling the bows that go over the roof, I over-torqued a bolt and sheared it. Bummer. Eh, I'm painting it anyways, so to the man store to get a bolt.

Installing the side rails that hang from the tub and hold the bows I ran into my biggest problem with the entire kit. The clamp blocks are soft aluminum. Very soft. Very, very soft. Fit was a bit twitchy in some spots as well (installing bows into rails, getting clamps to install correctly, installing rack tray).

However, despite the fact that I think this kit is a total piece of crap and would steer anyone I know away from it, I’m keeping mine. The reasons are my options are limited due to the bike rack and heavy rear end, it will perform its function, and it’s already on the Jeep so in a fit of frustration I’m keeping it there.

Rating for the HighRock 4X4™ Overhead Rack with Universal Rack Tray Rating: 1½ out of 5 0 out of 5 lost suitcases

I’m still waiting on my air bag helper springs, and should get them today. I’ll install them when it’s much warmer outside (50’s at least).

How does this fit in with the canoe? I’m glad you asked.

Wait, what? Canoe?

Oh mornings, why do you torment me so?

Canoe picked up, and with it a host of issues need addressing.

I hope that a)they are all fixable and b) that you derive joy from the restoration process.

Is it really bad? how much time/expense are you looking at Tater?

The light bar is 8" lower than the roof rack - something I didn't catch in photos in the catalog and thought would be more like 2-3". Cheap fix is to get a 4x8 about 4' long and bolt it to the light bar to give the canoe something to rest on and stay near level, but I'll have to sort something more permanent out. In a bug-out it's workable, but for daily use not safe. I'll be looking at a load bar that bolts up there and will protect the lights that will inevitably end up installed. Temporary fix will be about $15-25, and the long-term solution will run closer to $75. Bonus: The long-term fix will provide the lights I eventually mount up there some protection.

Next problem is a storage issue for the canoe. I thought I had eyeballed a storage spot and realized that I hadn't allowed for how big 15½ feet of canoe really is. I've solved this one in my head already, but need to spend about $30 to get it actually fixed. Next place I get will have a garage or there will be tears, many tears.

This is kinda funny though because I like solving problems like this, so your b) is already satisfied.

Mostly just unhappy with how it turned out as I thought I had addressed all the problems I would have and the end result was not what I expected and I'm unhappy with Dusty's look now. Even so, I did the roof rack (the main offender) for function and not looks so it stays and I suck it up until I learn to weld. And yes, I've decided that learning to weld is in my near future. Thank you, Doc Torr, for encouraging me to do this.

What sealed the deal was looking at my roof rack and thinking, “I could make something better than this.”

Oh, vertical clearence on the Jeep has gone from 6'2" to 7' with an empty roof rack and over 8' with the canoe up top. Drive through and parking garage clearence signs will have to be watched.
So today I'm making a list of what needs fixing now and what is next on making this thing survivable for a 2k mile bug-out. I'm using my annual June vacation as the completion date for resolving all the cargo and comfort issues and will go from there.


I swear I'm like a kid with a new toy at Christmas with this Jeep.

[Oneswunk]

Didn't read everything but will later.

Remember jeeps are crack and ruged ridge and quadasuck are big dealers.

Even tho I can drive to quadasuck and have several times im not a fan.


But hay I drive a xj so to them I suck and they hate me.

[Tater Raider]

Remember jeeps are crack and ruged ridge and quadasuck are big dealers.

QFT!

Also, I need a name for the canoe and am open to suggestions. Here she is camping out in my weight room until I rig something up later on:




And here is the purely functional roof rack I need but loathe:

[KnightoftheRoc]

...
Oh, vertical clearence on the Jeep has gone from 6'2" to 7' with an empty roof rack and over 8' with the canoe up top. Drive through and parking garage clearence signs will have to be watched.
So today I'm making a list of what needs fixing now and what is next on making this thing survivable for a 2k mile bug-out. I'm using my annual June vacation as the completion date for resolving all the cargo and comfort issues and will go from there.

I had similar worries with my plumbing van. one easy fix was to install a taller radio antennae, so it acts like a "feeler" for those never-quite-as-accurate-as-you-wish height signs. A matter of just 3 inches of over-height can give you advance warning that your ceiling height has decided to dip a bit on you. And, the antennae will allow you to back out of the tight spot without unloading the entire roof.
With the length of a canoe involved, how do you feel about a fiberglass whip, attached to the front brush bar, like the pennant whips they attach to bikes? Could do all the antennae does (well, except receive radio signals), but sooner.

For 2,000 miles, you'll need to refuel. How are you planning on approaching this aspect?

[Tperkins]

Tater- Yeah, some people will just never understand the advantages you would get from a $450 and up light. Have to see it to beleive it. I just finished installing my E-Series so I will have a pic and review on my BOV post sometime this weekend. Thinking back, I should of just got a 10" or a pair of 6" lightbars, and it would of been around the same cost. A few years from now maybe I'll just get a 40" for the roof....lmfao.

Any specific reason you went with that mini roof rack as opposed to a full length one? Sorry if I missed it.

[Tater Raider]

...
Oh, vertical clearence on the Jeep has gone from 6'2" to 7' with an empty roof rack and over 8' with the canoe up top. Drive through and parking garage clearence signs will have to be watched.
So today I'm making a list of what needs fixing now and what is next on making this thing survivable for a 2k mile bug-out. I'm using my annual June vacation as the completion date for resolving all the cargo and comfort issues and will go from there.

I had similar worries with my plumbing van. one easy fix was to install a taller radio antennae, so it acts like a "feeler" for those never-quite-as-accurate-as-you-wish height signs. A matter of just 3 inches of over-height can give you advance warning that your ceiling height has decided to dip a bit on you. And, the antennae will allow you to back out of the tight spot without unloading the entire roof.
With the length of a canoe involved, how do you feel about a fiberglass whip, attached to the front brush bar, like the pennant whips they attach to bikes? Could do all the antennae does (well, except receive radio signals), but sooner.

For 2,000 miles, you'll need to refuel. How are you planning on approaching this aspect?

Thanks or the suggestion on the feeler antennas. I think they would be most useful off-road but I can't discount what you said either. I'll think on this excellent suggestion some more.

Actual range of Jeep as it sits IRL is around 350 miles. There are two companies that make transfer tanks for the JK with one sitting behind the rear axle, not good, and the other sitting on the opposite side of the driveshaft from the OEM tank, very good. Of course it's made in the Land of Aus and I have to import it, but that will effectively double my range to 700 miles (and most of my BOL's) and give me ~36 gallons of go-juice.

Rotopax makes some very nice gas cans, water cans, first aid kits, etc that all fit on a mount through the center of the pack, and you can get that lockable so I'm looking to go that route. I can throw 4 of them on the spare tire for another 8 gallons, so that's up to ~44 gallons. Longer term planning has a trailer in the works as well, with 8 more Rotopax, so there's another 16 gallons, up to 60 and over 1,000 miles. I could throw more in the trailer but let's stop there anyways.

Cache is the only solution I've got left after the rest of the mods are done, and I'm working on that now as well.

Tater- Yeah, some people will just never understand the advantages you would get from a $450 and up light. Have to see it to beleive it. I just finished installing my E-Series so I will have a pic and review on my BOV post sometime this weekend. Thinking back, I should of just got a 10" or a pair of 6" lightbars, and it would of been around the same cost. A few years from now maybe I'll just get a 40" for the roof....lmfao.

Any specific reason you went with that mini roof rack as opposed to a full length one? Sorry if I missed it.

I hear ya on the lights. For me, I think my rural papers have influenced my decission. There is something about having reflective signs actually reflect when I am still 2 miles away that appeals to me. Not that I can legally run them on-road. Also, part of my bug-out to my remote BOL is through the Mojave Dessert, so the Baja 1,000 is influencing me too. That also explains a lot of the different types of lighting I think - lots far, some intermediate, some near, and some very near.

As for the mini rack, my soft-top is still fully functional with it on. With the canoe on, not so much but even so unloading 1 thing v. unloaing all the gear is something I can live with pretty easily. And it's kinda growing on me. Kinda like getting used to the idea of Athlete's Foot really.



The USPS delivered my air bag helper springs today. I have to get some tools and some warmer weather before installing it though. I'm thinking mid to late March.

I drew up a plan that would give me a roof rack bar over my light bar and provide some protectiong for the lights, but I need to take the idea to the local fab shop and see what their judgement is on it. Hopefully it will work and won't cost too much to make. The other solution is to cut a 8' long 4x4 in half, stack them, mark the holes in the tabs ont he light bar, then drill it out and bolt the wood to the bar. It will get me clearance, but will be ugly as sin and might offend the Jeep gods.

[Tater Raider]

Today I decided to road test the new gear and to test the theory that the secret to driving in mud is to drive it like you stole it.




4Hi, 3rd gear, pedal floored, and ESC on through a mile of mud, snow, and ice charitably called a road. Really it was 2 ruts. An hour later and I'm still grinnin like an idiot.

Although you can't really see it, there is mud in the roof rack.

Ninja Edit: Gear passed road test too.

[kcor_77]

So what are your dream mods for the ole girl?

[Tater Raider]

Canoe storage issue taken care of for under $3.00. I had the rope and just had to buy a hook (not shown) and relocate a bike trailer so I could use its hook (shown).


Yes, that's my front door. No, I don't care that it hangs down a bit. I'm short and visitors can duck.

So what are your dream mods for the ole girl?

Oh gods, where to start?

By June this year, 2 roll cage coolers, 1 roll cage duffle bag, 2 above rear wheel well storage bags, 2 lights, what I'm calling a "canoe bar" that allows me to use the light bar for lights and allows canoe to go over them at a good height for the roof rack.

By the end of the year, CB, mirror relocation for when doors are removed, big ol fire extinguisher with mount, first aid kit with mount, and a 4x4 club membership.

I'll probably then attack the issues of self recovery and safety: hi-lift jack, new bumpers, winches front and back (yes, each gets it's own), roll cage reinforcement, skid plates, and on-board air.

Lighting will be an ongoing thing, with me getting 1 light per year. The ones I want are expensive and you know the best way to eat an elephant is one bite at a time, so this allows me to constantly upgrade and see improvements in a lot of areas at the same time.

Performance mods are also on the list, but a tad lower priority: heat reduction hood, snorkel, dual batteries, and either a turbo to get the gutless wonder down the highway quicker or a supercharger to improve performance in the entire powerband, unless I decide to convert to diesel - that depends on reviews on the Grand Cherokee diesel yet to be released.

Also an off-road trailer is planned, built to spec by Sierra 4x4. I could probably do it cheaper, but since they do it for a living I'm gonna go out on a limb and say they can do it better.

And, of course, the lift. 3-4" long arm to allow for 35" tires on 18" rims. smaller rims are, of course, cheaper, but since most of my driving (99%+) is on road, I want the control the larger rims will provide. This also involves an axle swap up front, new driveshafts, and living without my truck for several days while a pro does the dirty work - the kit is jsut too involved for me and involves welding. As for regearing, I can probably get away with my 4.10's + 6sp manual, but may move to the next gear if performance suffers too much.

Somewhere in here I'm going to work in a Longranger aux tank.

Reasoning on the this particular dream set-up: I want a daily driver with manners on road, and the ability to handle overlanding style of off-roading. Bad roads, bad what used to be roads, some dessert, some mud, and some rock crawling, but mainly (80%+) trail driving.

Note on the tires: I spent a lot of time (a week straight, 8 hours or more a day, no I'm not exaggerating) researching my particular driving style, desires, and circumstances dictated by the Iowa weather in all it's glory and decided that seperate summer and winter off-road tires are the best choices for me at this time.

• Summer: Goodyear MT/R with Kevlar
• Winter: Goodyear Duratrak

Also being considered: ham gear, new paint, and a frontal lobotomy.

If I'm missing anything, let me know. Please. Seriously.

[Tperkins]

Goodyear Duratrac's are kick-ass tires. I would suggest trying them in the summer and seeing how they go in the mud. We took my dad's 02 Lancruiser (33" Duratrac E-Load) places where we should not have gone with them. The Kevlar M/T's are good tires, but lack sidewall lugs and road manners. Now, I understand you spent many hours on your research, so you may have considered this, but if not I just thought I'd make the suggestion. The Duratrac's are what I'm going with this summer before I leave for Wyoming; my Wrangler Silent Armor's are kickass, but I'd like something a little more suited for mud as I plan to do a lot more wheeling out in Wyoming. They'll be due for replacement (in my mind) before winter, but I'd rather replace them while I'm still in Illinois and can get them mounted/balanced for free.

[kcor_77]

Yep you got the jeep bug also there is no known cure.

[KnightoftheRoc]

Since you mentioned winches on your wish list, let me get an opinion- I've seen a few CJ's and such with a 2" receiver on the FRONT, which I assumed was for attaching a trailer receiver-mounted winch. I've got a 96 Laredo, and while off-road isn't what I want for it, I can certainly see the wisdom in having a winch- for getting BACK on-road, perhaps. Any idea what the reputation for these types of winches is, and how big a heart attack I'm risking in asking prices? Thanks.

My own plans are to eventually install a brush guard and winch on the front, a 2" receiver on the back, with a trailer wiring connector. I'm still undecided on a roof rack- the factory one is there, but seems kind of light-weight to me, but installing a full length version of the one you put on may mess me up with the mounting holes, and I'd prefer not to have to add in body work to an already growing list. Bigger, munchier tires, of course, goes without sayin'. It has a set of low mounted fog lights, one of which is out, so I'd consider some on the brush guard, if I can't find workable replacements, and maybe even if I can.

Does anyone know if there's a swing-away mount for the rear that would give me a jack, jerry can, and tire? I've got a lift door on the back, so I'm not sure what my options are.

[Jeriah]

I'm loving the build, and I'm sorry to distract from it, but...does anyone else think "The Dusty Rose" sound like a brothel full of geriatric whores?

[kcor_77]

KOTR you can buy just the cradle for the winch. Then put your winch on it. Warn and a few other companies make them.

[Doctorr Fabulous]

I'm loving the build, and I'm sorry to distract from it, but...does anyone else think "The Dusty Rose" sound like a brothel full of geriatric whores?

No.

[KnightoftheRoc]

I'm loving the build, and I'm sorry to distract from it, but...does anyone else think "The Dusty Rose" sound like a brothel full of geriatric whores?

I was thinking it, didn't want to SAY it...

KOTR you can buy just the cradle for the winch. Then put your winch on it. Warn and a few other companies make them.

I was thinking the 2" receiver on the front might also come in handy for towing Big Red, if I ended up with an RV or such. They make a tow bar that does the job of the fancier ones, that is essentially a 2" bar with a vertical swing hinge and a trailer hitch. You don't see them often, as most vehicles either cannot or do not take the 2" receiver like this.

I will check out the Warn cradles, tho- certainly food for thought, and really, thinking is all I can afford to do right now.

[Tater Raider]

I'm loving the build, and I'm sorry to distract from it, but...does anyone else think "The Dusty Rose" sound like a brothel full of geriatric whores?

I was thinking it, didn't want to SAY it...

Dusty is for the color, Rose is after sombody, and it does sound like an old west bar where the girls upstairs are making their living 2 dollars at a time, but it is her name.

Now would be a bad time to mention that after off-roading I affectionately call her, "my dirty, dirty girl," wouldn't it?

KOTR you can buy just the cradle for the winch. Then put your winch on it. Warn and a few other companies make them.

I was thinking the 2" receiver on the front might also come in handy for towing Big Red, if I ended up with an RV or such. They make a tow bar that does the job of the fancier ones, that is essentially a 2" bar with a vertical swing hinge and a trailer hitch. You don't see them often, as most vehicles either cannot or do not take the 2" receiver like this.

I will check out the Warn cradles, tho- certainly food for thought, and really, thinking is all I can afford to do right now.

You can go that route and it will save you the expense of a second winch, but you lose the redundancy of a second winch. Also from what I've researched you can get away with a much smaller winch in back than up front (in single line apps) so that's something to keep in mind. On the tire carrier, check Quadratec for what's available. They have a good selection. Then shop around for the best deal.

Money is tight for me too, though I'm living comfortably. This build has been paid for so far by saving $25/week. I'm not getting it done as fast as I'd like (I want it all now, dag nabbit) but it is getting done. If you can do something similar it might help. Like, for example and not judging here, a smoker could go this pace by quitting smoking. Or get a paper route like I did. Or.... sky's the limit if you can get creative.

Yep you got the jeep bug also there is no known cure.

I'm just trying to build the perfect BOV for myself. I... I don't have a problem. I can quit anytime. Hang on a second...

You kids get the hell away from my Jeep!

...some excellent advice, and I know it.

My reasoning on the MT/R is the agressive look (I'd be lying if I didn't say I liked it), the ovebuilt sidewalls that provide some protection for the larger rims when I do air down, and the large voids that won't pick up as many rocks to throw at other cars (I drive a lot of gravel). Having said that, I looked at a review that rated the tires for mud, street, sand, snow, ice, etc. and for what I'm doing in summer v. winter the MT/R just edged out the Duratrac's. Having said that, If I were to go with just one tire for year-round use I'd go with the Duratrac for sure and a lot of that has to do with what you said. And I might go 1 tire so will keep this in mind since you brought it up. Thanks!

Side note: the numbers say that the Silent Armor is the better snow and ice tire compared to the Duratrac, but it isn't nearly as good in mud and Iowa does tend to have random thaws in the winter that make a mess of gravel roads and my Sunday drives tend to have a lot of gravel in them. And their tread doesn't look very agressive to me honestly. Yes, looks matter to me, a little bit at least.