bug out bicycle?

[northernxposure]

I was thinking about Jamoni's suggestion, it sounds like it would work. I was going to suggest something along the lines of the biggest drywall anchor I could find (at least 3/8 or larger), the butterfly style, and put that with a nylock nut and washer on the bottom of the all-thread. The wings collapse inside the trapped tube and expand on the backside, with the washer/nylock keeping it in place. Then slip a piece of scrap pipe over the all-thread/frame, put a big ass washer on that (to press the all thread against the scrap pipe as you tighten it), spin a nut down and start tightening the whole she-bang to start pulling the trapped tube up from the frame tube. Soak it down with penetrating oil for sure, even if it doesn't feel like it did anything, once it starts to move you've got to keep it moving.

What model is that Specialized in the pic above? That thing is sexy!

NXP

[Paladin1]

I have been planning on building a BOB (Bug Out Bike) for awhile now and today I scored an old Hardrock off craigslist.

The goal is to make it a bomb-proof PAW bike.

I was a roadie many moons ago and put in many miles, century rides, etc. so I know my way around a bike.

BUT this is the first Mtn. bike I've ever had and I've been out of the game for some time so I need a little advice.

It has a decent cro-mo frame from what I can tell, probably heavy by today's standards I'm sure. But I thought that might be a good thing for it's intended use. I got the smallest frame I thought I could use, from my days on the bike I know smaller means stiffer.

It has some bosses right under the down tube above the brake bosses? Is that for a fender or panniers? There are also double eyelets right above the rear dropout that almost have to be for fenders or panniers?

The component gruppo is all low end stuff, Front fork is a RockShox Jett00, then Shimano Acera, and Weinmann rims.

I've never had a suspension fork and it dives quite a bit when I hit the brakes. I turned the adjuster knobs, but they don't seem to affect any preload or rebound so I'm guessing there worn out.

Since I would like to load this sucker with as much gear as possible, should I switch to a non-suspension fork? Any suggestions?

Then the Shimano group, I don't want Dura-Ace/Campy level stuff, just basic workhorse level. Any suggestions on that?

Then, of course, wheels. Since I'm not looking for speed as much as weight capacity, are these wheels good enough? Can I have them trued up, throw what ever decent tires that are out there on it and call it good?

I think I'd like to load the bike and avoid a trailer, what are my options?

For the sake of discussion, I weld and fabricate, so making brackets and welding them on is no problem.

I tried to watch the one guys video, but I just couldn't take his slow ass presentation style, it was killing me to watch it, just painfull. So he may know his shit, but I'm just not strong enough to watch all that.

Help.

[doitnstyle1]

Don't know if has been mentioned before but... there are a lot of nice looking bikes here. As a security officer on a campus in a very bad area of town, I see a lot of bike thefts. A lot of those bikes tend to stick out a lot and make themselves targets for theft. The nice looking ones and brightly colored ones also draw attention to the rider as they ride.

i bike it to work every day and park my bike alongside the other bikes and my bike has never been messed with, except for when I left my lights on the bike and some kids came by and stole those on a whim.

I think grey man is also key here. My bike is badly spray painted looks like crap but rides very well and is reliable. No one messes with it because it looks like a cheapy bike that is not worth reselling not even to the crackheads. I wish i could show you some of the videos.

One thing that I have noticed as it pertained to bike security was that cable locks are shit! I have seen most of these thieves use a pair of pocket sized cutting dykes and cable cutters go through them in less than two seconds. Some of them have inexpensive bolt cutters that do the same thing. "D" locks seem to be the best deterrent , and I do mean deterrent, as if they really wanted them that would not stop them for very long. I know methods of breaking D locks within 30 seconds.

Another good deterrent is a cable lock with armor links surrounding the cable. it will not allow cable cutters to cut through, and too large and unruly for breaching with bolt cutters. Obviously the saying "only as strong as the weakest link" applies here . Usually either the lock or the chain/cable.

The biggest problem I see is that people absentmindedly lock the bikes but forget to lo9ck them to the bike rack or forget to loop through their wheels. or just lock the front wheel to the bike rack. Determined or prepared thieves will come with replacement front wheels to remove the bike leaving the front wheel and ride off on the one they brought.

I would like to stress that just because you park your bike on a busy walkway means nothing to the emboldened thief. They prefer these areas because people tend to ignore the obvious. Don't trust security to protect your bike either. Some of the guys I work with even though they are paid better than most security officers would probably actually unwittingly assist the thief rather than stop it. Some would just ignore the thief to avoid the paperwork. So you can just imagine what the minimum wage officers would do.

Ultimately it is your responsibility to keep your bike from being stolen and keep identifiable makings on your bike handy and updated with your local police and your current address. We have recovered several bikes who have police identity stickers but have not been updated in years with their address or the police department did not input it into their system. Make sure you call them and see if they can find it in their system. Assume nothing.

I suggest tone down the looks and the colors and make a lot of the accouterments removable with quick release as long as you are able to stow it. I suggest if you use it for a daily rider and have quick release, bring a bag that can hold everything if you are going to be gone for a little while.

[eugene]

I have been planning on building a BOB (Bug Out Bike) for awhile now and today I scored an old Hardrock off craigslist.

The goal is to make it a bomb-proof PAW bike.

I was a roadie many moons ago and put in many miles, century rides, etc. so I know my way around a bike.

BUT this is the first Mtn. bike I've ever had and I've been out of the game for some time so I need a little advice.

It has a decent cro-mo frame from what I can tell, probably heavy by today's standards I'm sure. But I thought that might be a good thing for it's intended use. I got the smallest frame I thought I could use, from my days on the bike I know smaller means stiffer.

It has some bosses right under the down tube above the brake bosses? Is that for a fender or panniers? There are also double eyelets right above the rear dropout that almost have to be for fenders or panniers?

The component gruppo is all low end stuff, Front fork is a RockShox Jett00, then Shimano Acera, and Weinmann rims.

I've never had a suspension fork and it dives quite a bit when I hit the brakes. I turned the adjuster knobs, but they don't seem to affect any preload or rebound so I'm guessing there worn out.

Since I would like to load this sucker with as much gear as possible, should I switch to a non-suspension fork? Any suggestions?

Then the Shimano group, I don't want Dura-Ace/Campy level stuff, just basic workhorse level. Any suggestions on that?

Then, of course, wheels. Since I'm not looking for speed as much as weight capacity, are these wheels good enough? Can I have them trued up, throw what ever decent tires that are out there on it and call it good?

I think I'd like to load the bike and avoid a trailer, what are my options?

For the sake of discussion, I weld and fabricate, so making brackets and welding them on is no problem.

I tried to watch the one guys video, but I just couldn't take his slow ass presentation style, it was killing me to watch it, just painfull. So he may know his shit, but I'm just not strong enough to watch all that.

Help.

Imho, i'd swap for a non suspension fork or spend a little more for a fork with suspension lockouts.
Most racks are aluminum which takes a higher end welder, i'e been buying normal racks then modifying to meet me needs to eliminate the need for welding. You can put racks on the sides of the front and back wheel and above each as well. Then an underseat, frame and handlebar bag.
I've tried to setup to where I have one bag dedicated to bike stuff, tools, pump, spares, etc so if I had to abamdon the bike i'd just leave that bike bag with it, and that bike bag is always on the bike. I can;t usean underseat because of the trailer hitch so I keep that in a habdlebar bag.

[MarkTBSc]

I think grey man is also key here. My bike is badly spray painted looks like crap but rides very well and is reliable. No one messes with it because it looks like a cheapy bike that is not worth reselling not even to the crackheads.

+1 on this. I work in Cambridge, UK and almost everyone cycles. You see a lot of very nice, pretty bikes that get stolen and a few really ugly battered looking ones that are amazingly smooth and comfortable to ride. It sounds wrong, but if you have a nice bike, invest in a paint job that makes it look rusted to hell.

Another good deterrent is a cable lock with armor links surrounding the cable. it will not allow cable cutters to cut through, and too large and unruly for breaching with bolt cutters. Obviously the saying "only as strong as the weakest link" applies here . Usually either the lock or the chain/cable.

One of the jobs I occasionally have here is cutting loose bikes that have been chained up and abandoned. I will just say that some of the most impressive cable locks with armour sheathing are actually pretty useless. I won't discuss the technique on here but suffice it to say there's a way of getting through one of these locks in about a minute with a Dremel. D-Locks are the way to go.

[jamoni]

I have a Schwinn World Tourer that's too big for me. It's probably about right for someone 6' to 6'3".
I've got it on Craigslist for $100, but if someone needs a bug out bike, I'll let it go for $50.
Needs nothing, but could stand to get new tires, tubes, bar tape, and seat.
Uploading pics now.

EDIT

[eugene]

How old of a schwin is it?

[andygates]

My old-bike-dar pings at 1984 there.

[jamoni]

Mid to late eighties sounds about right.

[eugene]

Thats good, its a real schwin then.

[jamoni]

I AM WORKING ON A SECRET PROJECT.

[Jonas]

Tell me what it is. C'mon dude, we used to be tight.

Also, just picked up a Downtube Nova NS folding bike. Adorbz and functional.

[velojym]

The catch and slidehammer was another idea I had. I may go that route before destroying an impact socket. Broke as I am, even a HF impact socket purchase is more than I can truly spare.

I did try cutting it with a hacksaw. Unfortunately with 13 or so inches of tube inside.. it.. didn't work. I hesitate to mention I got so frustrated I cut a sawzall blade short enough to fit in the pole and used a dewalt recip saw since the floppy ass hacksaw blade was useless. And at one point a cold chisel... ahem. I may have lightly dented the steel pole. I figure I'll just heat it with a torch and tap it back into shape, since it's not that deformed. I'm damn well going to get my $35.50's worth out of this damn frame!

Ooh... dissimilar metals will do that. For anyone not familiar with it, just remember to grease the seatpost before installing it. As for that above posted Schwinn... I once bought an old Varsity when I knew nothing of bike sizing. It was way too small, and was never going to be comfortable, but dang... sucker was heavy and tough. After the apocalypse, at least the giant cockroaches will have something to ride!

[eugene]

Found this on another forums
http://www.extrawheel.com/en/3/instructions_voyager/

looks like an interesting idea for a bike trailer.

The wheel sis the same size so you don't need a different sized tube for spares. Then you can transfer the panniers to the bike should it break down for whatever reason

[irukandji]

New Schwinn I picked up this spring, With a $20 trailer found at a garage sale. Little mofo engineering and she works like a champ. Working on a rain cover made from a poly tarp, with an elastic bottom.

[jamoni]

So... Tuesday I was riding my mountain bike/commuter home from school. This has been a solid performer for the 6 years or so I've had it. Anyway, I was riding on the sidewalks because the road I was on has no shoulder, poor visibility, and is just plain terrifying. I was headed downhill, at a pretty good clip. I had about 40lbs of books and laptop on the back rack. That's important.
Well, one section of sidewalk had lifted up, and stuck up about 8 inches. I saw it at the last second, and could not dodge around because the sidewalk was sunk between curbs on either side. I bled off as much speed as I could, pulled the front wheel up, and threw myself forward to unload the rear tire. EXCEPT FOR THAT 40LBS. My rear tire scrunched nicely into the curb, and now I have a tacoed rim and bent axle.
After wobbling my way home, I broke out my touring bike, which has my second best rack on it. My first being on the commuter.
On my way to school today, I got cut off, locked up the wheels, did a stoppy, and fell over sideways, neatly snapping my second best rack off at one of the supports.
Sigh.
So I found a stick and tied it to the rack and bike frame with part of my shoelace, and wobbled off to school.
Lessons learned?
I dunno. Maybe I'm not supposed to ride bikes?

[eugene]

People are rude in general to bike riders. Even on the dedicated bike paths where they cross roads people will stop blocking the trails. I got a lot of dirty looks when I slowed down to give a bike rider the legal right of way before I made a right turn the other night. My 18 wheeler sized bike trailer with 100 extra lbs of kids and gear usually keeps people in check around me though probably more because it would dent their precious lexus/mercedes than simply scratch it like most bikes would.

[Jeriah]

I'm 6'4" and right now I'm 350 pounds. The few bikes I can find the info lists a max load of 190lbs,
most companies just don't publish that info.

The weak link on bicycles as far as weight goes is the wheel and axles. Contact your LBS and see if they can make you some hardcore, heavy duty wheels. Last time I checked they run $75-$100 at my LBS. If you want to learn to lace wheels you can turn it into a DIY project and build your own.

In my experience this is 100% correct, and to be even more specific, I found that it was the spokes that were the weakest part of the wheel. I went on a long ride, prob. weighed about 250lbs myself but...wait a minute...I weigh 270 now and my bike handles me fine, so you're either looking at flimsy bikes, or they lowball their capacity a LOT for liability reasons...anyway, with a crate and panniers full of camping stuff, I broke a lot of spokes on that trip.

So, my advice would be, like Tater said, get stronger wheels. More spokes, thicker spokes, or crazy blade-like spoke-fin-things. Talk the the shop, tell 'em your sitch, and they'll help you out.

[jamoni]

At Goodwill today, I found an old ladies' ten speed for $25. 26" steel wheels, built like a tank. Guess what's going to replace my bent up aluminum wheel(s)?

[mk_ultra]

At Goodwill today, I found an old ladies' ten speed for $25. 26" steel wheels, built like a tank. Guess what's going to replace my bent up aluminum wheel(s)?

Good score

I just got myself an 80s vintage steel frame Raleigh mountain bike converted to a single speed that I am going to set up as my winter bike .

This will be my first season of biking in the snow . Ought to be interesting.

[jamoni]

I think I'm in love with this bike. I want to put a modern saddle and some mustache bars on it, and ride it until I die.

[jamoni]

Well, bought a new wheel from REI, and swapped my cassette and stuff over. Bike is now functional again.

[velojym]

I'm 6'4" and right now I'm 350 pounds. The few bikes I can find the info lists a max load of 190lbs,
most companies just don't publish that info.

The weak link on bicycles as far as weight goes is the wheel and axles. Contact your LBS and see if they can make you some hardcore, heavy duty wheels. Last time I checked they run $75-$100 at my LBS. If you want to learn to lace wheels you can turn it into a DIY project and build your own.

In my experience this is 100% correct, and to be even more specific, I found that it was the spokes that were the weakest part of the wheel. I went on a long ride, prob. weighed about 250lbs myself but...wait a minute...I weigh 270 now and my bike handles me fine, so you're either looking at flimsy bikes, or they lowball their capacity a LOT for liability reasons...anyway, with a crate and panniers full of camping stuff, I broke a lot of spokes on that trip.

So, my advice would be, like Tater said, get stronger wheels. More spokes, thicker spokes, or crazy blade-like spoke-fin-things. Talk the the shop, tell 'em your sitch, and they'll help you out.

It may sound counterintuitive to some, and even some non-engineer bike shop folks will argue against it, but I highly recommend using good double-butted spokes from Wheelsmith or DT. They're thick at the thread and hub ends, and are a gauge thinner in the middle. So, they're also lighter than a straight-gauge spoke too.

I was very hard on Jake, with 110psi 23c Michelin Axial Pro tires (no give at all, so the wheel got the brunt of the impacts), bunny hopping roadkill, curbs, parking blocks, whatever I could find to get some air. I busted about four spokes before a friend of mine (bike club president at the time) made the above suggestion. I had the rear wheel re-laced with DT 14-15-14 spokes, and never had a problem again... until some ol' lady backed into me with her Tahoe. I had my next wheel built the same way and it's been good since.

[Dlongmuir]

Hey every body saw this thread not too long ago and I bought some things For my bike like new tubes/treads and a topeak explorer rack and a topeak mtx bag both of the products are good sturdy and get the job done for my commute from home to work and back. Unfortunatley today I sat on the seat of the bike a little too hard and the spokes craped out on me and my back wheel bent. Now dont get me wrong I'm not a heavy guy in 5'11 and 135 so I'm pretty much out of a ride to work and a bike. Does anybody know an average price for a 700c x 32 wheel? No rush I have off till Tuesday so I can go grab a new rim tomorrow I'd just like to know a decent size cause if it's over like 50 bucks I have to wait till next time I get paid