PROJECT RATTLETRAP: PROJECT COMPLETE!

[crypto]

Wow, I don't get the set screw 'fix'.

My best guess is that some troglodyte wanted to keep the pivot link tight against the slide stop pin, and instead of just buying a FLGR that can do that, decided that a drill and tap was a better idea.

[Regular Guy]

Wow, I don't get the set screw 'fix'.

My best guess is that some troglodyte wanted to keep the pivot link tight against the slide stop pin, and instead of just buying a FLGR that can do that, decided that a drill and tap was a better idea.

While that makes 'sense' I don't see how the dood figured that wouldn't ding up/destroy the link. Anyway, all that stuff is fixable but you know that.

[doc66]

Replace the link as well. It's a part of the accuracy of the pistol.

As for the full length guide rods, I have them in mine. Personally, I think the pistol runs smoother with one. In reality, there's no difference between one in a 1911 and a Smith or a Sig--they just have a capture built in. The subject is debated. I stand on the side of smoother, better operations with one.

Just because it wasn't designed with one, doesn't mean it can't use one. After all, the 1911 has already undergone 82 changes. JMB didn't design the perfect weapon, just a really solid one.

[aus.templar]

tagged because I will be back with popcorn

[doc66]

Why would you buy an Auto Ordinance? Of all the examples of the 1911...

You're going to make me buy an Ed Brown.

Come, come, come, come, Join us, join us, join us...

[yossarian]

Do you pay hookers to spit on you and kick you in the balls while you call them names? I started to wonder a little bit when you posted the Gladiator thread, but this cememts it. You have some serious clinical issues.

[Kommander]

I replaced the full length guide rod in my 1911 with a normal one but mainly because the full length required tools to take down.

[crypto]

Parts ordered:

New sights (Maryland Gun Works, nothing complex)
New extractor (from Kahr)
new pivot link and pin (from Kahr)
new grips (so I can play dressup with my pretty pretty dolly)
Ambi safety (Colt)

The ambi safety will be a phase 2 project, for once I get the thing working as reliably as I can.
After that, I'll strip it, fit the safety, then sandblast and re-parkerize everything.

Im gonna polish this turd until I can see my face in it, then bead blast the fuck out of it.

[Blacksmith]

I don't see "new set screw" on the list.

You should get a longer one so it will give you an adjustable link height.

[crypto]

I'm going to grind down the set screw to where its only as thick as the frame, then red-locktite it in place forever.

[doc66]

I replaced the full length guide rod in my 1911 with a normal one but mainly because the full length required tools to take down.

Ummmm, no, not really. Mine are supposed to require tools as well. But if you know how to take it down, you don't need tools. You have to take the slide off with the barrel and guide rod still attached. The guide rod will drop down enough to move the bushing and then you can disassemble the pistol the rest of the way. Reassemble the same way. It takes some getting use to, but once you know it, it can be done.

I haven't used a tool to disassemble for cleaning a 1911 in years.

[doc66]

:gonk:

I'm going to grind down the set screw to where its only as thick as the frame, then red-locktite it in place forever.

Spot weld, spot weld, spot weld.

You know you want to.

[Regular Guy]

:gonk:

I'm going to grind down the set screw to where its only as thick as the frame, then red-locktite it in place forever.

Spot weld, spot weld, spot weld.

You know you want to.

Spot weld, yes, that. Little dremel work and they hold should disappear. Good dremel work, not what the previous owner did.

I have a feeling this is a gel in the rough.

[crypto]

:gonk:

I'm going to grind down the set screw to where its only as thick as the frame, then red-locktite it in place forever.

Spot weld, spot weld, spot weld.

You know you want to.

Maybe later. This thing doesnt need any more grinding on the frame, and sticking a dremel inside the trigger guard to smooth down the dimple of brazing rod is a recipe for OH MY GOD WHAT DID I DO?!?

I might silver solder it in place, too.

[congochris]

Soooo, seriously, how much did you pay for this? I mean, I bought a barely used Philipino 1911 that hadn't been abused by Homer Simpson for $375, so if you paid more than that...

[crypto]

It was really cheap. Somewhere between Lorcin and hi-point cheap.

[congochris]

Eh, for that much, you'd almost be better off just getting one of those "builder kits" from Sarco to get rid of the abused parts.

[shoggoth80]

"Eh, for that much, you'd almost be better off just getting one of those "builder kits" from Sarco to get rid of the abused parts."
Nuh-uh....Sarco blows. He'd end up having to send half of that shit back... he'd wait forever to get it, wait forever to make sure they got it, and then wait forever and a day for a refund. Bad idea all around. Stay away from Sarco.

FLGR are easy to tear down if you have a standard barrel. Bull barreled... you either want a two piece guide rod, or get a paperclip to hold the spring compressed when you let the slide ride forward for tear down. Not much more complicated, even if running a different non-standard barrel (of which there are many good options, standard or otherwise).

[Blacksmith]

:gonk:

I'm going to grind down the set screw to where its only as thick as the frame, then red-locktite it in place forever.

Spot weld, spot weld, spot weld.

You know you want to.

Maybe later. This thing doesnt need any more grinding on the frame, and sticking a dremel inside the trigger guard to smooth down the dimple of brazing rod is a recipe for OH MY GOD WHAT DID I DO?!?

I might silver solder it in place, too.

If you want to stay in the spirit of things: JB Weld.

[Kommander]

I replaced the full length guide rod in my 1911 with a normal one but mainly because the full length required tools to take down.

Ummmm, no, not really. Mine are supposed to require tools as well. But if you know how to take it down, you don't need tools. You have to take the slide off with the barrel and guide rod still attached. The guide rod will drop down enough to move the bushing and then you can disassemble the pistol the rest of the way. Reassemble the same way. It takes some getting use to, but once you know it, it can be done.

I haven't used a tool to disassemble for cleaning a 1911 in years.

OK I managed to get my full length guide rod back on my STI. I had to use a paper clip (the recommended tool) and even then I could not use the recoil spring I had in the gun but a worn out one. I just could not get the spring to compress by hand enough. I don't know what kind of guide rod your 1911s have but this kind has a second bushing around the muzzle end of rod that interfaces with the barrel bushing. This bushing has the full power of the recoil spring behind it and I can not simply push it down. Even if I was able to get this thing apart like this I would need the paperclip to put the thing back together again. I can supply pictures if you want. The full length rod does seem to make things smoother, I'll give you that.

[crypto]

The recoil spring is only 15-20 pounds, right? Couldnt you just, you know, /lean/ on it a little?

[xLionx]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Id4G57HwTEs


one of us, gooble gobble

[jamoni]

Do you have a sight staking tool?

[crypto]

No, but I have a vise, a few punches, and a lot of hate. Do I need anything more?