A new ride, and a problem with my old ride..

Discussions about the devices that supply a means for movement of people and goods.

Moderator: ZS Global Moderators

User avatar
Ringo
* *
Posts: 294
Joined: Sat Jul 07, 2007 6:04 pm
Location: NASC, Florida
Contact:

A new ride, and a problem with my old ride..

Post by Ringo » Mon Jun 09, 2008 4:45 pm

Hey all,

As I have never actually bought my own car before (boos in the 3rd row), I need some advice. I need a truck (I'm a huge hunter, angler, boater) with cargo space, 4x4 capability, and decent fuel economy. Oh, and for a decent price. I don't need new. Right now my top choices are: Toyota Tacoma (both double and extended cabs), Nissan Frontier, and Ford Explorer Sport Trac. I'm wondering if anyone has experiences with these, specific pros or cons to the model, anything and everything is welcome. Throw the kitchen sink if necessary.

Now, for my current ride, I'm having a slight vibration in my car at higher speeds. Its more noticeable with noise rather than actual vibration, but there is a definite noise/increase in vibration when I turn right. Not left. Weird, I know. The noise is an odd, rolling noise. A few days ago I check my hydraulic fluid in the car and the dip stick is about half-way down the "MIN" section - so needless to say it is damn-near dry. Is there a chance this is causing my noise/vibration? Or is that kind of thing likely something else, like the transmission?

-R.
~* The Mad Cap. *~

100th Post: 7/30/07.
TravisM.1 wrote:You're worried about "too creepy" in a Z-PAW?
My Girlfriend said (about her Toyota Matrix) wrote:..I can't just four-wheel drive this bitch, but its not bad..
Image

User avatar
ninja-elbow
ZS Global Moderator
ZS Global Moderator
Posts: 14171
Joined: Sun May 13, 2007 12:39 pm
Favorite Zombie Movies: DotD '04
DotD
NotLD
Location: Portland, OR

Re: A new ride, and a problem with my old ride..

Post by ninja-elbow » Tue Jun 10, 2008 9:54 am

I heard that vibration of any kind is bad. Ths is from all the "Car Talk" on NPR episodes I've listened to. Klik and Klak will always freak out when somebody mentions vibrations in a car and super freak out when it involves turning. Not sure what it is but get a mechanic to check that out.

I own a Mazda B2300 "city truck". 21/25 MPG and it is good for my city living as well as light duty in the sticks. It's the same as a Ford Ranger pretty much and I have had 0 problems with it in the year I've had it. I love that little thing.

I've gone on dinner dates in it (after a wash and detailing it) and have hauled 1000 pounds worth of trees from Salem, OR to north Portland (100 miles or so round trip).

If you're doing more rural stuff, I'd go heavier duty.
Last edited by ninja-elbow on Tue Jun 10, 2008 6:01 pm, edited 1 time in total.
President ZSC011
Part Viking, Part Siamese

User avatar
knedgecko
* * *
Posts: 788
Joined: Sat Feb 02, 2008 4:08 pm
Location: Arizona
Contact:

Re: A new ride, and a problem with my old ride..

Post by knedgecko » Tue Jun 10, 2008 12:40 pm

can we get more about the current car?
front wheel drive? rear wheel? positrak? LSD?
engine size? age?
could be a ball joint, could be a CV axle (assuming front wheel drive)... could even be an unbalanced wheel.
Image

User avatar
cougar
* * * * *
Posts: 1301
Joined: Sat Sep 10, 2005 7:58 pm
Location: detroit, MI

Re: A new ride, and a problem with my old ride..

Post by cougar » Tue Jun 10, 2008 6:43 pm

Im guessing by "hydrolic oil" you mean power steering fluid, yes this can cause a ugly whine and effect steering. Dont overfill, just get it on a level surface and check it when its hot, add accordingly.
It may also be a shifted steel belt in the tire, this can cause an array of driveability issues. Need more info though on the vehicle.
As for new cars, Im a Ford guy, but the explorers suck. I rented one when I went out of town and that was the most uncomfortable peice of shit ever. I just thought my Camaro beat my back up. And the milage was terrable.
If I lite a cigarette, will you go away?

R.I.P HK33k

Erik
* * * * *
Posts: 5261
Joined: Sat Nov 04, 2006 4:12 pm
Location: Asheville, NC

Re: A new ride, and a problem with my old ride..

Post by Erik » Tue Jun 10, 2008 8:42 pm

Ringo, if the rolling noise is kind of a "clacking=rolling" noise, what you are describing sounds exactly like a CV joint. If it breaks, your car is completely out of commission until it gets fixed. When you turn left or right, that causes one wheel to turn faster than the other. If that constant velocity (CV) joint wasn't there to allow the wheels to spin at independant speeds during a turn, one of your wheels would snap off. However, it's quite common for them to wear out around 120,000-160,000 miles, depending on the model of your car and how hard you turn. If the CV joint is the problem, it's better to just replace the entire axle than rebuild the CV joint.

If the noise is kind of a smoother noise instead of rolling, it'spossible your problem is a wheel bearing. If that's the case, you want to get that fixed right away because if the wheel bearing fails completely, your wheel could literally come off while you're driving. Go to your local honest mechanic and they'll be able to tell you in fifteen minutes what the problem is.

The reason Click and Clack get so excited about vibrations and weird front end noises is that a few of the possible problems can lead to accidents. Best just to get it checked out.

How many miles are on your car? Is it front wheel drive?

User avatar
Loquinho
* *
Posts: 226
Joined: Tue Oct 30, 2007 10:49 pm
Favorite Zombie Movies: 28 Days Later, Dawn of the Dead 2004, Zombieland
Location: Richmond, VA

Re: A new ride, and a problem with my old ride..

Post by Loquinho » Tue Jun 10, 2008 10:31 pm

I've got a 2002 Toyota Tacoma extended cab 4WD SR5 V6. I love it, and I've put 100K miles on it. So far, I've needed routine maintenance, new tires, a couple alignments from off roading, and I replaced the power steering pump. That's it, and it's running very strong.

It's handled everything I've sent at it off roading, and handles great on the interstate. I only know of one that's been in an accident (driver error), and after rolling across 3 lanes off traffic and crashing into a guardrail, my friend climbed out of the vehicle unharmed. In fact, when the tow truck got there to load up the bent and twisted vehicle, he was able to turn the key and get it started and drove it up onto the flatbed.

Buy one. I've gotten 2 friends to get them so far, and they're hooked as well. Even the one that got in the accident just bought a newer one to replace it.
"[Girl], don't you ever stand for that sort of thing. Someone tries to kill you, you try to kill 'em right back."
- Malcom Reynolds

4.16.07

User avatar
AwPhuch
* * * * *
Posts: 4742
Joined: Sun Mar 12, 2006 11:16 pm
Location: Texas

Re: A new ride, and a problem with my old ride..

Post by AwPhuch » Thu Jun 12, 2008 1:19 pm

Erik wrote:Ringo, if the rolling noise is kind of a "clacking=rolling" noise, what you are describing sounds exactly like a CV joint. If it breaks, your car is completely out of commission until it gets fixed. When you turn left or right, that causes one wheel to turn faster than the other. If that constant velocity (CV) joint wasn't there to allow the wheels to spin at independant speeds during a turn, one of your wheels would snap off. However, it's quite common for them to wear out around 120,000-160,000 miles, depending on the model of your car and how hard you turn. If the CV joint is the problem, it's better to just replace the entire axle than rebuild the CV joint.

If the noise is kind of a smoother noise instead of rolling, it'spossible your problem is a wheel bearing. If that's the case, you want to get that fixed right away because if the wheel bearing fails completely, your wheel could literally come off while you're driving. Go to your local honest mechanic and they'll be able to tell you in fifteen minutes what the problem is.

The reason Click and Clack get so excited about vibrations and weird front end noises is that a few of the possible problems can lead to accidents. Best just to get it checked out.

How many miles are on your car? Is it front wheel drive?
+1 on the CV joints..the clicking can usually be heard the loudest when you are doing a hard turn from a stop while accelerating (very distinct clack, clack, clack, clack, clack when turning)

If the joints aren't completely destroyed or worn out (the usually aren't) they do sell temporary "rebuild" kits that give you grease, a boot, and some clamps to hold the boot on (you cut off the old broken boot, repack the grease in the joint, put split boot on and crimp down metal bands to hold new boot) this usually can give you another 50k miles if they aren't totally shot

Tires out of balance, improper alignment and worn tie rod ends or ball joints can also cause heavy vibration
http://tdpweb.com/goodyear/srvc_shocks.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Alcohol, Tobacco, and Firearms - Should be a convenience store, not a Governmental entity
"All that is necessary for the triumph of evil is that good men do nothing." (Edmund Burke)

avenger
* * *
Posts: 556
Joined: Mon Jun 25, 2007 10:04 pm
Location: Central Texas or, somewhere in the middle of nowhere...
Contact:

Re: A new ride, and a problem with my old ride..

Post by avenger » Thu Jun 12, 2008 3:52 pm

Erik wrote:Ringo, if the rolling noise is kind of a "clacking=rolling" noise, what you are describing sounds exactly like a CV joint. If it breaks, your car is completely out of commission until it gets fixed. When you turn left or right, that causes one wheel to turn faster than the other. If that constant velocity (CV) joint wasn't there to allow the wheels to spin at independant speeds during a turn, one of your wheels would snap off. However, it's quite common for them to wear out around 120,000-160,000 miles, depending on the model of your car and how hard you turn. If the CV joint is the problem, it's better to just replace the entire axle than rebuild the CV joint.

If the noise is kind of a smoother noise instead of rolling, it'spossible your problem is a wheel bearing. If that's the case, you want to get that fixed right away because if the wheel bearing fails completely, your wheel could literally come off while you're driving. Go to your local honest mechanic and they'll be able to tell you in fifteen minutes what the problem is.

The reason Click and Clack get so excited about vibrations and weird front end noises is that a few of the possible problems can lead to accidents. Best just to get it checked out.

How many miles are on your car? Is it front wheel drive?
+1
The first thought I had when the op said "rolling" noise was wheel bearings. Another possibility might be a belt seperation in the tire (which would also make a "rolling sound that would have a lower pitch-more like a rolling growl). If the tires are new, you can pretty much rule that out, but if you have older tires, and there's a bulge in there it can cause the tire's belt to seperate from the tread (kind of like you see in semi-truck retreads) which could cause the tire to either blow out, or like happened to me, the tread of the tire can come off all at once.
+1 on getting the thing checked out by someone reputable fast quick and in a hurry.
-A-

Sheol151
* * * *
Posts: 858
Joined: Thu Apr 10, 2008 12:15 am

Re: A new ride, and a problem with my old ride..

Post by Sheol151 » Fri Jun 13, 2008 7:22 pm

I was going to say CV joint...maybe axl....Doesnt seem too expensive.....DIY is a lot cheaper.....Ive never been to a garage because they charge you more than the part costs to put it in. Learn to work on your vehicle. saves money, will help you survive, and chicks dig it. :D

User avatar
RebelKangaroo
* *
Posts: 264
Joined: Wed Jan 16, 2008 11:57 pm
Location: Texas

Re: A new ride, and a problem with my old ride..

Post by RebelKangaroo » Tue Jun 17, 2008 12:23 am

Whatever you do, do not get the Explorer. My Aunt has one and wanted a hitch and trailer to tow my cousin's car. She went to U-Haul and they refuse to do anything with any sort of Explorer due to problems with the rear axle.

User avatar
AwPhuch
* * * * *
Posts: 4742
Joined: Sun Mar 12, 2006 11:16 pm
Location: Texas

Re: A new ride, and a problem with my old ride..

Post by AwPhuch » Tue Jun 17, 2008 12:31 pm

I had the wierdest freeking thing happen to my wifes mini-van..it was doing the grumbly grindy sound and had a slight vibration

When I pulled the tire to check if it was the brakes the lug nuts weren't even finger tight..in fact they were loose...once I re-cranked them down the noise/vibration went away

Not saying that its your solution, but start with the easy/cheap shit 1st
Alcohol, Tobacco, and Firearms - Should be a convenience store, not a Governmental entity
"All that is necessary for the triumph of evil is that good men do nothing." (Edmund Burke)

User avatar
Dr. Quickdraw McGraw
* * *
Posts: 551
Joined: Mon Nov 12, 2007 1:20 am
Location: SE Iowa

Re: A new ride, and a problem with my old ride..

Post by Dr. Quickdraw McGraw » Wed Jun 18, 2008 4:02 pm

Erik wrote:If that constant velocity (CV) joint wasn't there to allow the wheels to spin at independant speeds during a turn, one of your wheels would snap off.

FWIW, the differential is what allows the wheels to spin at different speeds. The CV joints allow the axles to flex when the suspension is compressed or expanded or the wheels are turned. They work in much the same way as universal joints on sockets, in fact the CV replaced the u-joints in the axle assy. The reason they clack when you turn is that they are being stressed. All other information is correct.

here is a gif of how a cv joint works:
Image

pretty good wiki on CV joints.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Constant-velocity_joint" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
"A man can live on processed food from here till judgement day if he has enough Rosemary" - Shepherd Book

For the record I am, AR, .45, pie.

User avatar
Ringo
* *
Posts: 294
Joined: Sat Jul 07, 2007 6:04 pm
Location: NASC, Florida
Contact:

Re: A new ride, and a problem with my old ride..

Post by Ringo » Fri Jun 20, 2008 8:57 pm

knedgecko wrote:can we get more about the current car?
front wheel drive? rear wheel? positrak? LSD?
engine size? age?
could be a ball joint, could be a CV axle (assuming front wheel drive)... could even be an unbalanced wheel.
Sorry for the extended duration on the response. Civilian flight school sucks. Anyway - the car is a 1999 vw passat, 4 cyl, FWD.

The noise is...well, have you ever made the "engine revving" noise with your mouth while describing a motor to someone? Its like that, but ONLY when I pull the car right. The "cruising noise" is louder than it should be, I know that, but its VERY pronounced on right hand turns. My tires are actually a bit low on tread, but I don't think its enough to cover this noise. All of that being said, I have taken it to VW before. After keeping it for 4 frakkin' days, they said (and I quote), "You have a final drive issue - it'll be expensive." And they let me drive it off. Hope this helps. Further advice is appreciated. What does a CV joint analysis/replacement cost?

-R.
~* The Mad Cap. *~

100th Post: 7/30/07.
TravisM.1 wrote:You're worried about "too creepy" in a Z-PAW?
My Girlfriend said (about her Toyota Matrix) wrote:..I can't just four-wheel drive this bitch, but its not bad..
Image

User avatar
Dr. Quickdraw McGraw
* * *
Posts: 551
Joined: Mon Nov 12, 2007 1:20 am
Location: SE Iowa

Re: A new ride, and a problem with my old ride..

Post by Dr. Quickdraw McGraw » Fri Jun 20, 2008 9:45 pm

Well if its in your final drive then its not the CV joints. A CV joint going bad sounds like a playing card in the spokes of a bike. Click-Click-Click. Sounds like you might have some pretty bad problems with your transaxle.
"A man can live on processed food from here till judgement day if he has enough Rosemary" - Shepherd Book

For the record I am, AR, .45, pie.

Erik
* * * * *
Posts: 5261
Joined: Sat Nov 04, 2006 4:12 pm
Location: Asheville, NC

Re: A new ride, and a problem with my old ride..

Post by Erik » Sat Jun 21, 2008 9:13 am

Ringo wrote:
knedgecko wrote:can we get more about the current car?
front wheel drive? rear wheel? positrak? LSD?
engine size? age?
could be a ball joint, could be a CV axle (assuming front wheel drive)... could even be an unbalanced wheel.
Sorry for the extended duration on the response. Civilian flight school sucks. Anyway - the car is a 1999 vw passat, 4 cyl, FWD.

The noise is...well, have you ever made the "engine revving" noise with your mouth while describing a motor to someone? Its like that, but ONLY when I pull the car right. The "cruising noise" is louder than it should be, I know that, but its VERY pronounced on right hand turns. My tires are actually a bit low on tread, but I don't think its enough to cover this noise. All of that being said, I have taken it to VW before. After keeping it for 4 frakkin' days, they said (and I quote), "You have a final drive issue - it'll be expensive." And they let me drive it off. Hope this helps. Further advice is appreciated. What does a CV joint analysis/replacement cost?

-R.
Take it to another place for a second opinion. The diagnosis sounds kind of...vague. Secondly, it's always possible the mechanic who was working on your car was an idiot. It's happened to me before. Once, my 1985 Plymouth Reliant (this was years ago) was making a nasty noise and the mechanic at the Plymouth dealer told me it was the "spider joints" inside the engine, whatever the hell those are. He said it would be a $700 repair. I took it to a very competant local garage for a second opinion and it turns out the noise was something else (I forget what, sorry) that was only about $150.

Take it to another mechanic you know is competant that's not at the VW dealership and tell them the symptoms. Don't say you took it to the dealership. Don't say you think it's the drive train or anything else. Just ask them to tell you what it is. If it's the CV joint, I'd go to Autozone and buy a complete half axle from them. Autozone has you half axles for $100-130 depending on which one you need. It shouldn't cost more than $100 or so in labor to install the axle. Do NOT buy the dealer part, as it will cost many times more than the Autozone part.

I always laugh when the dealership wants me to pay sometimes literally six times as much for one of their parts. They say, "But don't you want a genuine GM part instead of a cheap Autozone part?" My response is always, "Why should I pay six times as much for the GM part? It's the genuine GM part that broke in the first place."
Dr. Quickdraw McGraw wrote: FWIW, the differential is what allows the wheels to spin at different speeds. The CV joints allow the axles to flex when the suspension is compressed or expanded or the wheels are turned. They work in much the same way as universal joints on sockets, in fact the CV replaced the u-joints in the axle assy. The reason they clack when you turn is that they are being stressed. All other information is correct.
I hate to find out I'm giving wrong information. Thank you for the correction.

User avatar
Dr. Quickdraw McGraw
* * *
Posts: 551
Joined: Mon Nov 12, 2007 1:20 am
Location: SE Iowa

Re: A new ride, and a problem with my old ride..

Post by Dr. Quickdraw McGraw » Sat Jun 21, 2008 9:08 pm

Erik wrote:
Ringo wrote:
knedgecko wrote:can we get more about the current car?
front wheel drive? rear wheel? positrak? LSD?
engine size? age?
could be a ball joint, could be a CV axle (assuming front wheel drive)... could even be an unbalanced wheel.
Sorry for the extended duration on the response. Civilian flight school sucks. Anyway - the car is a 1999 vw passat, 4 cyl, FWD.

The noise is...well, have you ever made the "engine revving" noise with your mouth while describing a motor to someone? Its like that, but ONLY when I pull the car right. The "cruising noise" is louder than it should be, I know that, but its VERY pronounced on right hand turns. My tires are actually a bit low on tread, but I don't think its enough to cover this noise. All of that being said, I have taken it to VW before. After keeping it for 4 frakkin' days, they said (and I quote), "You have a final drive issue - it'll be expensive." And they let me drive it off. Hope this helps. Further advice is appreciated. What does a CV joint analysis/replacement cost?

-R.
Take it to another place for a second opinion. The diagnosis sounds kind of...vague. Secondly, it's always possible the mechanic who was working on your car was an idiot. It's happened to me before. Once, my 1985 Plymouth Reliant (this was years ago) was making a nasty noise and the mechanic at the Plymouth dealer told me it was the "spider joints" inside the engine, whatever the hell those are. He said it would be a $700 repair. I took it to a very competant local garage for a second opinion and it turns out the noise was something else (I forget what, sorry) that was only about $150.

Take it to another mechanic you know is competant that's not at the VW dealership and tell them the symptoms. Don't say you took it to the dealership. Don't say you think it's the drive train or anything else. Just ask them to tell you what it is. If it's the CV joint, I'd go to Autozone and buy a complete half axle from them. Autozone has you half axles for $100-130 depending on which one you need. It shouldn't cost more than $100 or so in labor to install the axle. Do NOT buy the dealer part, as it will cost many times more than the Autozone part.

I always laugh when the dealership wants me to pay sometimes literally six times as much for one of their parts. They say, "But don't you want a genuine GM part instead of a cheap Autozone part?" My response is always, "Why should I pay six times as much for the GM part? It's the genuine GM part that broke in the first place."
Dr. Quickdraw McGraw wrote: FWIW, the differential is what allows the wheels to spin at different speeds. The CV joints allow the axles to flex when the suspension is compressed or expanded or the wheels are turned. They work in much the same way as universal joints on sockets, in fact the CV replaced the u-joints in the axle assy. The reason they clack when you turn is that they are being stressed. All other information is correct.
I hate to find out I'm giving wrong information. Thank you for the correction.
Image Its a common mistake and pretty close to being right. I second the going for a second opinion and getting the Autozone parts. IIRC the CV joints from Autozone have a lifetime warranty.
"A man can live on processed food from here till judgement day if he has enough Rosemary" - Shepherd Book

For the record I am, AR, .45, pie.

armored_pig
* * *
Posts: 703
Joined: Thu Mar 27, 2008 3:33 pm
Location: Manassas, VA

Re: A new ride, and a problem with my old ride..

Post by armored_pig » Sat Jun 21, 2008 9:33 pm

Possible drive line vibe?

AP

paperclip
* * *
Posts: 416
Joined: Tue Nov 14, 2006 4:53 am
Location: Rapid City, SD

Re: A new ride, and a problem with my old ride..

Post by paperclip » Sun Jun 22, 2008 12:15 pm

Check the wheel bearings on the right side of the car. My experience is if they are bad, they get noisier when unloaded, as in taking a turn. Could be CV joints but they are much louder (especially when turning the steering wheel lock-to-lock while accelerating) and I haven't heard any bad ones make noise when going straight down the road, but it is possible.
Good luck and let us know what you find out!
DFWMTX wrote:
It's less about saving the enviroment and more about control. Who needs Big Brother when you've got Mother Gaia?

User avatar
Dr. Quickdraw McGraw
* * *
Posts: 551
Joined: Mon Nov 12, 2007 1:20 am
Location: SE Iowa

Re: A new ride, and a problem with my old ride..

Post by Dr. Quickdraw McGraw » Sun Jun 22, 2008 10:38 pm

armored_pig wrote:Possible drive line vibe?

AP
front wheel drive
"A man can live on processed food from here till judgement day if he has enough Rosemary" - Shepherd Book

For the record I am, AR, .45, pie.

hghgrad
Posts: 20
Joined: Sun May 04, 2008 11:37 am

Re: A new ride, and a problem with my old ride..

Post by hghgrad » Sun Jun 22, 2008 11:22 pm

I'd take a serious look at the tires, I might have missed this, but do you know what side it's coming from? If not, an easy way to isolate it is to drive by a long wall (building ect) with the window down on that side. Try to do it when it's relatively quiet outside to make it easier. After you figure it out, toss the spare tire on and drive again...see if the noise is gone.


I'd run far away from the Sport trac...Exploders are notorious for transmission problems. My 02 had to be rebuilt at 42K...never beaten on, towed a car one time with it. Also, as mentioned, Uhaul will not rent a trailer to anybody with an Explorer due to the rollover junk of years passed. A friend of mine was a district supervisor and she said that it's policy.

avenger
* * *
Posts: 556
Joined: Mon Jun 25, 2007 10:04 pm
Location: Central Texas or, somewhere in the middle of nowhere...
Contact:

Re: A new ride, and a problem with my old ride..

Post by avenger » Mon Jun 23, 2008 9:43 am

Its a common mistake and pretty close to being right. I second the going for a second opinion and getting the Autozone parts. IIRC the CV joints from Autozone have a lifetime warranty.
I don't know about Autozone, but Advance Auto has lifetime replacement.

User avatar
Napalm{WmD}
* * * * *
Posts: 1257
Joined: Wed Oct 03, 2007 7:54 am
Favorite Zombie Movies: All of them. The crapy ones are a lesser favorite.
Location: Central Florida
Contact:

Re: A new ride, and a problem with my old ride..

Post by Napalm{WmD} » Thu Jun 26, 2008 6:53 pm

Erik wrote:My response is always, "Why should I pay six times as much for the GM part? It's the genuine GM part that broke in the first place."

QFT and Sigged
Been on hiatus since 2011, then in 2019 realized it’s been a while. Still in central Florida still ready for the zombies.

Florida meet/camp? Pm me I’m interested.

Erik
* * * * *
Posts: 5261
Joined: Sat Nov 04, 2006 4:12 pm
Location: Asheville, NC

Re: A new ride, and a problem with my old ride..

Post by Erik » Sat Jun 28, 2008 10:49 pm

Napalm{WmD} wrote:
Erik wrote:My response is always, "Why should I pay six times as much for the GM part? It's the genuine GM part that broke in the first place."

QFT and Sigged
:D

User avatar
cougar
* * * * *
Posts: 1301
Joined: Sat Sep 10, 2005 7:58 pm
Location: detroit, MI

Re: A new ride, and a problem with my old ride..

Post by cougar » Sun Jun 29, 2008 7:03 am

Well, the problem is gonna be in the cv shaft assembly. Its probably a one piece sealed unit. There are several bearings inside that can and do go bad and it makes the sound you are describing. CV replacement is gonna be expensive, this is why I personally dont like front wheel drive cars.
I'll poke around and see if I can come up with a diagram of the unit, BRB.

ETA: here is a how to, not real great diagrams, but its a start.
http://www.autozone.com/shopping/repair ... 52800c2f51" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
If I lite a cigarette, will you go away?

R.I.P HK33k

Post Reply

Return to “Transportation”