Choosing a Tractor

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KnightoftheRoc
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Re: Choosing a Tractor

Post by KnightoftheRoc » Wed Jun 09, 2010 5:28 pm

MI-1Honkey wrote:We had an 8n with a loader for a while, very simple machine to work on. But with even a couple hundred pounds in the bucket, the lack of power steering makes driving very sketchy. Parts are easy to find. Implements for a two point hitch however, are fewer and farther between nowadays, pay extra for a three point if you have to. Also I found that a 12v conversion was necessary to reliably start it in the Michigan winters.

After that i bought a Farmall Cub to finish mow dad's 5 acres, took almost eight hours with a woods 59" belly mower. My brothers been mowing it for him this year with his big zero turn, takes him just under three hours, but he uses more gas than I did.

If I was to buy another, i would go with a diesel, and a three point hitch.
My fiance and I were thinking of getting a farm-sized piece of property, and a tractor would most likely become a part of that setup. I have ZERO experience with working on them, tho I've run a few in the past. What voltage are they usually set up for, if you had to convert it TO 12 volt?
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Resolute
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Re: Choosing a Tractor

Post by Resolute » Wed Jun 09, 2010 8:59 pm

Sorry, I didn't read through all the posts, but I just bought my first house on 5.5 acres, and I was thinking along the same lines as you.

I bought a Ford 8N, almost perfect working condition (one brake doesn't work, but everything else is great), for $2500. No body rust, mostly original or near original parts. I saw one with a front loader for $5000, but unless you have a great reason to need one, you can just get a rear scoop and save yourself over $1500.

Good luck, and I'll have to re-read through this thread when I don't have to get up for work at 0400!

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Re: Choosing a Tractor

Post by MI-1Honkey » Thu Jun 10, 2010 7:43 pm

KnightoftheRoc wrote:What voltage are they usually set up for, if you had to convert it TO 12 volt?

Most old tractors run on 6V and positive to ground, the conversion to 12V negative ground makes it easier to start in cold winters, and to run new accessories like lights and radios and charge the cell phone, or run a winch. Plus 12v parts are way easier to find.

Besides that, good luck finding a 6v ignition coil or light bulb at autozone....

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riverjoe47
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Re: Choosing a Tractor

Post by riverjoe47 » Thu Jun 10, 2010 8:41 pm

Here is Kubota 2200 hrs . Diesel with 3 point hitch . Bought it to help build log cabin and clear trails on my 7.5 acres of woods .Very simple machine . Been buying implements when I can find them for less then a hundred bucks or so .
Paid $2600 at auction . Only about 19 hp but a lot of power . 1977 thru 1980

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KYZHunters
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Re: Choosing a Tractor

Post by KYZHunters » Thu Jun 10, 2010 9:05 pm

All good advice on the old iron so I won't add to it, I think that's what you need. If you decide to go new look at the Mahindras; a lot of tractor for the money, great warranty and they've got 0 percent financing now.
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thorian
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Re: Choosing a Tractor

Post by thorian » Fri Jul 09, 2010 1:35 pm

derajer wrote:13k is a pretty serious payment on a piece of rural land, not to mention I hate to take on the additional debt of something like that. I can have a Ford 8N that I can work on with no special tools and has a standard 3-point hitch for 1-2K. While there is still the issue of the loader to deal with, it would provide everything else I need.
The problem with the 8n is that the PTO is driven from the back differential. So when you disengage the transmission to stop your PTO driven equipment will keep propelling you forward. So if your running a brushog and you need to stop quick do to a kid running out or something else you cant and a great number of people have been killed that way. A 9n or a Jubilee are the better bet as the PTO is not directly connected to the rear wheels.

Make sure that the tractor you get has a LIVE PTO. as far as a hay goes... A sycle bar mower will probally be all you could use on a smaller tractor <50hp that with a small hay rake, and your going to be pitching your hay into piles as most bailers wont run on a small tractor.

Expect to spend about 5k for a tractor and equipment to put up hay. For me it was easier to have my buddy do it with his 150 HP JD and Massey bailer and split the hay in shares then it was for me to buy the crap to get 1000 small squares off 10 acres of pasture. I would average 1000 acres first cut for premium horse hay, Alfalfa, Red clover, and Timothy. each 55 lb bale sold for $5 each. Second cut would get about 600 bales. second cut would sell for about $3 a bale. I had horses and goats so I just banked my share for winter feed. Going rate is 2/3 to the guy cutting and bailing and 1/3 to the land owner.

Since were talking about hay yards. A good hay field requires maintence and lots of work. After about 4 or 5 years your going to want to plow the whole damn thing and put in beans for a year to fix the nitrogen in the soil to then replant with clover/alfalfa. You know when to do this when your alfalfa starts dying off, it is one of those fucked up plants that actually produces a toxin that kills itself off, after a couple years ya need to get the soil straightened out and that is where the beans come in.

Oh and dont think for a minute that your going to get ritch off this or have any free time ever again. farming even sustinance level is full on 24/7 work. It can be very rewarding work but it is still work. The good news is that if your wife is a stay at home mom then she can be a full time farmer and you wont ever pay any state or federal income taxes again because your going to be loosing money hand over fist. You just need to show a profit on the 4th year. We had $100 profit the 4th year but the first year we lost 30k second 15k third 10k.
VOL FF 1 & 2, EMT-B, Hazmat Ops, Vehicle Extrication Technician, High angle rescue technician, and that is just the hobby...

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