DIY wood stove install

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drivepirate
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Re: DIY wood stove install

Post by drivepirate » Sun Apr 06, 2014 2:58 pm

Well, I'm on a working vacation and it's time to get crackin' on this install. Tomorrow I plan on using an oscillating tool to cut one of the roof studs out and move it over making room for the chimney. I will put extra studs in so I don't lose any support.

Also I'm debating as to cutting out the hardwood flooring before I install the platform. I need some flooring to fix where the old fireplace hearth was and it's either take it from here or the closet. I don't know the best way to cut it out either...

blackhorse
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Re: DIY wood stove install

Post by blackhorse » Mon Apr 07, 2014 8:41 am

Nice stove.....good luck.
Glad you picked a strait shot through the roof.
Every added elbow does increase soot and is more difficult to clean.

I triple walled my stack...10" 8" & 6".....works great.
I used paving stones for my base/hearth.

I burn everything from pine to cherry and dry to wet wood.
I even at times burn railroad ties. (Not recommended)
The key is keeping it hot and clean regularly.

My insurance covers my system.
I had to get it inspected by the state, a insurance picked inspector, and a certified fireplace and wood stove installation expert (also if my insurance's choice). Wasn't cheap but cheaper than a so called pro installing it.
Some insurance companies will work with you and others won't. Some won't even cover professional work if not part of the homes original specs/build.

If your closet is longer than your old footprint I would use it to fill the space.

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drivepirate
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Re: DIY wood stove install

Post by drivepirate » Tue Apr 08, 2014 12:23 am

First day of installing is over and it went well (no trips to the store) :D I got the new trusses installed in the roof. Installed the ceiling support box and finalized the plan for the raised hearth.
Image
Still need to put the trim on...

My wife changed her plan to put slate along the wall behind the stove saving us time and money, yay!

One thing I'm confused about. The chimney installation instructions are unclear about a piece called radiation shield. The sheet metal place didn't mention this piece at all. It says that a radiant shield is required at each floor penetration above the support box. Does that INCLUDE the penetration at the support box too? I thought that's part of what the support box does.

I'm thinking about returning my tube of Black Jack and getting some high temp clear silicone instead, I think it'll look nicer from the road but I don't know if the Black Jack works better for adhering the chimney flashing to the roof shingles or what...
Last edited by drivepirate on Wed Apr 09, 2014 11:42 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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Re: DIY wood stove install

Post by DarkAxel » Tue Apr 08, 2014 1:06 am

drivepirate wrote:I'm thinking about returning my tube of Black Jack and getting some high temp clear silicone instead, I think it'll look nicer from the road but I don't know if the Black Jack works better for adhering the chimney flashing to the roof shingles or what...
???

I certainly hope you aren't going to caulk the flashing down on top of the shingles!

If you don't want to have to deal with leaks, you'll have to pull up all of the shingles around the chimney-hole, flash it, then shingle over top of the flashing. Roofing caulk goes under shingles, not on top of them.
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drivepirate
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Re: DIY wood stove install

Post by drivepirate » Tue Apr 08, 2014 10:05 am

DarkAxel wrote: ???

I certainly hope you aren't going to caulk the flashing down on top of the shingles!

If you don't want to have to deal with leaks, you'll have to pull up all of the shingles around the chimney-hole, flash it, then shingle over top of the flashing. Roofing caulk goes under shingles, not on top of them.
Well yes and no, everything I've seen online says to cut the hole then use a flat bar to lift the shingles from half way up the flashing and pull the nails out so that you can caulk up under the shingles. Here is a link to an example of what I was going to do. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mghJfh_OOnU

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Re: DIY wood stove install

Post by drivepirate » Thu Apr 10, 2014 12:20 am

Framing the support box was pretty simple. My cuts weren't great so I used high temp silicone to seal any gaps so that debris can't get near the support box.
The hard part was leveling the support box inside the framing (took 2 people and a few trys). My advice is not to settle for less than exactly level because this is the key to make cutting the roof hole correctly.
Image
This picture is before I put the attic insulation shield in place.

And after
Image

My support box wasn't perfectly level and my roof hole cut was pretty bad as a result. You can see the tar on the underside of the chimney flashing as an example of the excess cut. It took 3 saws all blades because the roofing material dulled them pretty quick.
Image
A trick I learned that is helpful for cutting the roof hole that I had not seen on the net is to first put a section of the pipe on the support box so that it is close to the roof. Then attach a sharpie to a level (a fairly long one) that is 2 inches thick and put it against the chimney section with the sharpie side out and slide the level up marking the roof on 4 sides of the pipe (this makes marks 2 inches away from where the chimney passes through the roof). Finally, screw 4 long screws up through the roof where your marks are, go onto the roof with some chalk and either draw a circle or put the flashing down using the screws as reference points to trace inside.

After sliding the storm collar down over a bead of silicone I put another bead around the top and on the collars buckle.
Image

I'm not sure how long that Blackjack stuff takes to dry but it's messy as hell (next time I'll use latex gloves). Still need to build the platform for the stove but the roof was what I was stressed about.
Last edited by drivepirate on Sat Apr 12, 2014 11:29 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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DarkAxel
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Re: DIY wood stove install

Post by DarkAxel » Fri Apr 11, 2014 12:51 am

That looks pretty good. Looks like you got everything lapped properly.

That Wet-R-Dri/Blackjack (roofing sealant) takes quite some time to dry. It's made to get soft and sticky when the sun warms up the roof. If it dries out too much (around 5-10 years or so) it will begin to crack and break loose (letting in water). It's made from petroleum, so it will weaken and tear latex gloves. I usually use those cheap $1 gloves you can buy at the local gas station and wash off the seep-through with acetone or Zippo Fluid. I usually use a rag soaked in a bit of gas or kerosene to smooth down a bead.
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