Okay, now for some tips on how to do this:
1. go to Lowe's and buy the big gallon can of epoxy resin. It has a white plastic cap, under which there are two tubes of hardener. It is much MUCH cheaper buying it by the gallon.
2. buy some 1/4" thick steel plates and some C-clamps to make your sandwich canvas/linen sandwich while the "glue" is hardening up/curing. I first used pine 2X6's, and even with a couple of layers of wax paper or cellophane to protect the clamp boards from the epoxy, all the little imperfections and grain and knots and little divots transferred through the wax paper and into the finished project. you could end up with a little gap right where the scale meets the knife blank or the 1911.
3. work outside on a nice day, perferably when it is not so windy. the stuff has a pungent odor to it that will linger inside the house. I think the min temperature is 55*F listed in the directions on the side of the can.
4. wear disposable latex/vinyl gloves (well, DUH!)
5. use half gallon plastic milk jugs to mix the epoxy in. I would cut off the front corner opposite of the jug's handle, but leave maybe about 3 or 4 inches of the bottom of the jug intact as like a mixing bowl. I would use plastic spoons to mix it. I think the directions said to add ten drops of hardener per every ounce of resin, but don't hold me to that. I would fill the bottom up firs with...ahhh...jeesh... 3 ounces of water, let's say. made sure it was sitting level on the counter, then used a sharpie marker to put a tic mark on the outside at that 3 ounce water mark. empty out the water, dry it out real good with a paper towel, then I would go outside, with the gloves on, and fill it with resin to the 3 ounce mark. then I would poke a hole in the hardener tube, gently squeeze it and count each and every drop, to say 30 drops. then mix with the spoon, or a stick, dowel, shim, popsicle stick, whatever.
6. for the canvas micarta, I would use a dark layer of canvas, then a light layer of canvas. I would put down a very epoxy coated light colored canvas first, on top of wax paper coated board or steel plate. then the next layer of dark canvas would be UNcoated, just laid it right down on top of the sopping "wet" light layer. then I would dunk the next light layer into the milk jug, swirl it around a bit with my gloved hand, give it a good squeeze and the stretch it and lay if flat on top of the dark layer, then I would press my hands from the center out to smooth out any bubbles.
with the lighter colored strips it is easier to see if you have it thoroughly soaked with epoxy or not. In my opinion, there is no need to soak every single layer of canvas.
7. it would take me about 22 layers of canvas, IIRC, to get a thickness just right for 1911 grips...somewhere right around 5/16" thick
8. of course if you used linen which is much thinner you would need a ton more layers to achieve the same final thickness. I would highly recommend reducing the amount of hardener used then, because it will set up in the jug before you get all stacked together and clamped.
9. the textured type effects were done with an old floor mat from my truck. the rough blanks looked like this:
I cut up my old floor mat, and then screwed it to one 2X6. put wax paper over the ridges of the floor mat and then put a couple of layers of wax paper on top of that, THEN commenced with the heavily epoxied first light colored strip of canvas.
10. this cutter doo-hickey, that green matt, and a nice straight edge make it easy and quick to product a bunch of similar sized canvas or linen strips in a hurry:
11. you can learn about by just going to google and typing in "DIY micarta" , "DIY mycarta", or "jean carta"
12. wear a long sleeve shirt you don't care about...actually all the clothes you shouldn't care about.
13. some of your better or bigger walmart stores will actually have a fabric sewing section and have canvas on hand. if you can grab a roll that is about to run out, you get more fabric at a better price that way. other stores like jo-ann fabrics send out coupons in their emails and/or have coupons in their fliers at the front of the store.
14. I usually just did the glue ups in the evenings and let the whole enchilada cure up in the clamps over night.
15. I always made it a point to set it up so the glue wouldn't get onto the C-clamps, especially their threads
16. once I was done with the milk jug, I made sure that whatever was remaining was nice and cured hard before I threw it in the trash. the chemical reaction does produce its own heat.
I am sure I have forgotten some stuff, so I will be back with some more tips.