Homemade tent stove project in the works

[bark-eater]

http://www.myccr.com/SectionForums/view ... hp?t=27476

I'll unload the rest of my lurk links later...enjoy

[jamoni]

http://www.myccr.com/SectionForums/viewtopic.php?t=27476

I'll unload the rest of my lurk links later...enjoy

MyCCR is awesome. I lurk over there.

[bark-eater]

http://www.hadfield.ca/Gear/stove.html
http://www.wtp.net/simsstov/stoveSportsman.html
http://homepages.tesco.net/~moosehead/T ... 20New.html scroll down
http://www.campfirestove.de/
http://www.windysmithy.co.uk/html/woodburners.htm
http://www.nordicoutdoor.co.uk/tentipi-accessories.html
http://www.frisport.net/sites/produkter ... yActive=26
http://www.feuerzelte.de/shop/show_det. ... v=36&rb=36
http://www.moosecamp.nl/kachel/kachels.html
http://www.fibistyle.ch/index.php?optio ... 6&PageNo=1
http://www.redhawk-trading.com/tent-stoves.htm

Thats it for now. I'll go thru my other stuff latter. have fun "tinker"ing

[Dak Kovar]

Thanks!

[CAMOEDTJ]

ok here is a close up of the wally world stainless pot wood burner. this is a fairly easey project with minimal tools required."rivvet gun.drill,rotary tool,overall cost roughly $20.00 for the pot set,came in a box of three so you could make two aditional stoves out of the remaining pots,roughly @10.00 for other hardware to assemble the thing.you should buy the componets needed such as hinges and rivvets in stainlesssteel, i did not but some parts show corossion but the stove still functions flawlessly!!here is a close up of the front of the stove.

i started working on the pot lid by drilling holes for the cap screws or i think thats what they are called,these are for the threadall rod screws in to to hold the lid on tight to the stove body.

if you look close enough on the right and left side of the door you can see the cap screws in place. i tried to keep them high enough to not interfear with the loading of wood into the stove.

this next shot shows how the threadall rod runs through the stove body towards the back of the stove.

next youll want to drill out the back of the stove for the rod to exit out of. again i should have used stainless steel wing nut and washer but i didnt, then you can trim off the extra remaining rod after you put on the nuts and tighten down for a snug fit.


next i worked on cutting out the front door. iused a dremmel tool to cut out the front door,the cut was not verry straight pretty rough,but didnt hurt overall performance cause this is not an air tight stove.


next came the hinges,once again use stainless steel hinges i did not but wished i would have just for the cosmetic looks of things and overall corossion proofness of stainless. youll need to rivvet thes in place with a rivvet gun, get stainless rivvets. i used plain ol cheap rivvets and they work but i need to replace them every so often cause the tend to wear out with the high heat these little stoves crank out.

next i cut out air intake vents,i cut the hole out and used galvanized pieces rivveted over the holes to make the intake adjustable. i found that by keeping the vents low in the stove helped with bringing air in over the wood to keep every thing burning hot completly to ash!

i then cut out the top hole for the collar to fit in. this was a "PITA" i used a dremmel but a hole saw would prollay work better. the hole is not perfectly round but big enough to fit the collar into i dosent have to be perfectly cut it can have gaps in it and ill show you why on the next picture.
i used a 90% elbow that is flanged, once fitted into the hole you spread the flanges apart and it pretty much seals up the un even hole opening.

this is basicaly a "3 galvanized elbo from homedepot for like $3.00

for the legs i used book shelf L brackets.there may be other options for this method but it was cheap and worked for me just simply place where you want them and drill holes for the rivvets and atach to stove.


now some have asked how can you cook on a round stove?? well i simply took a piece of an old bbq grill and cut down to make a warming rack out of it. when not in use it fits inside the stove. notice the two sticks holding it up in fron and the rack hanging out in front of the stove. i use this position for warming things up with out getting to hot. i warmed up the plastic dintymoor beef stew with out melting the plastic container it was in. if i wanted more heat i would slide the rack back further over the stove and put a couple more sticks in the baclk corner to stabilize the rack. in this position you can boil water,melt snow,what ever you want to do that needs more heat!


so there you have it! my take on a cheap easily built stove with simple tools and a little timeyou will need to figure in some way for a spark arrestor which i have not done yet. leave the handles on the stove for a way to lash the stove to your pack or what ever. and you can utilize the inside of stove for storage with some stuff bags just put stuff in bags you dont want dirty and close the door!
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tim

[Dak Kovar]

Very cool. Thanks for answering my question about cooking on a round stove top. Nice solution.
DK

[CAMOEDTJ]

i forgot to add that the finished weight is right around 3lbs 8 ozs,and i painted it black with high temp stove paint. and you should do a first inital burn out doors not in a tent let all the galvanized, and paint fumes burn off first!! paint is optional just didnt want a huge flashing mirror in the sun while walking through the woods.

[E]

wow man. thats pretty bangin. If it got cold enough down here, I might make one for camping. Hell I might make one anyways

[kyle]

Great info!

If we don't have a stove like this by the next wintergheddon I'm quitting Zombie Squad.

[Famine]

Great info!

If we don't have a stove like this by the next wintergheddon I'm quitting Zombie Squad.

If you have one of those it means you have no excuse to not attend NNY09WCT, Kyle. Your invitation has been served.

Of course my camp happy self is watching this thread very carefully.

Kevin

[CAMOEDTJ]

i think there is a problem with the suporting legs, one would have to figure out a different set up for use in deep snow. with the stove being so low to the ground . also if used you deffinatley have to clear out leaf debri under the stove cause it will get hot enough to catch fire,i have had it happen to me. mabe some sort of way to make detachable legs out of threadded rod or something like that.

[SamuraiBobX26]

Thats pretty neat CAMOEDTJ.

With all of the ideas on here, I hope that when I make mine it will look half as good as everyones stoves.

[Woods Walker]

Thanks CAMOEDTJ.

Judging from your photos and the forms we both visit you are a fellow hunter. Warms my heart. I am thinking either a stainless container like your large pot or the 8-inch stove pipe that was used in one of the links. After all the feed back provided by you and DK I would paint the pipe with heat resistant stuff after the zinc burns off if I go with the 8-inch stove pipe/end cap stove. This way I still get the residual Zinc protection along with the paint. If I do go with the 8-inch stove thinking 24-inch stove body so I can nest the pipe inside the stove. I would probably use one of my roll up pipes but for those that can't afford the 10-13 per foot cost maybe standard nesting pipe at 35 bucks for 6 feet or 2-foot sections of muffler pipe would work. This way the whole package would be compact and relatively UL. Don't know yet but over the next few weeks I will be working on this.

As for the shelter I will be looking forward to whatever you come up with. Thinking a floor less tipi design like my Kifaru or maybe a floorless A-frame like the USGI shelter half.

edit for spelling.

[Squirrley]

I like the idea of the SS pot, myself.

Doesn't look like there's much else SS hardware on that, tho =P

[CAMOEDTJ]

ok after browsing through the thread again,looking at the various pics of stoves,and some others not on the thread, i decided it was time to do something about the short legs on my stove! it worked but was way to close to the ground for me.i liked the coleman fuel can stoves legs. i liked the fact they were removeable,light weight, and cheap since i got a bunch of old arrows laying around.so i took off the old ones and cut up some new ones. im sure that most of you guys know how to take arrows apart. but for those who dont if you go this rout youll need to heat up the inserts in the end of the arrows to remove them. i used a little pocket torch but you can use a candle as well, just heat up and pull out with pliars. then wipe off the insert. i then cut to size that i wanted and reinserted them with some JB WELD not sure on the temp raiting but this will be tested as soon as it sets up in 6-8 hours.

i then drilled out the holes in the stove to fit the threads of the field point tips through leaving the point end on the inside of the stove. pretty simple to do.im trying the three legged tripod set up for now cause i ran out of sharp drill bits but im most certian am going to have four legs for more suport especially when cooking on the stove. so far i think im gonna like this way better than the book shelf L brakets that were on it before



i will probbaly use this type of stove pipe 4this stove that you see here all rolld up. this is the kind of pipe that woodswalker was talking about. they are the best bet for light weight, portability,and packability, but they come with a price that is not cheap. as you can see they pack up really small.


Woods Walker Posted: Mon Feb 25, 2008 10:18 pm Post subject:

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Thanks CAMOEDTJ.

Judging from your photos and the forms we both visit you are a fellow hunter. Warms my heart. I am thinking either a stainless container like your large pot or the 8-inch stove pipe that was used in one of the links. After all the feed back provided by you and DK I would paint the pipe with heat resistant stuff after the zinc burns off if I go with the 8-inch stove pipe/end cap stove. This way I still get the residual Zinc protection along with the paint. If I do go with the 8-inch stove thinking 24-inch stove body so I can nest the pipe inside the stove. I would probably use one of my roll up pipes but for those that can't afford the 10-13 per foot cost maybe standard nesting pipe at 35 bucks for 6 feet or 2-foot sections of muffler pipe would work. This way the whole package would be compact and relatively UL. Don't know yet but over the next few weeks I will be working on this.

As for the shelter I will be looking forward to whatever you come up with. Thinking a floor less tipi design like my Kifaru or maybe a floorless A-frame like the USGI shelter half.
......................................................................................................
WOODSWALKER
yes im still working on the shelter,its bout 90% done,as im waiting for funds to transfer into paypal so i can purchase the jack from TIG. it will most deffinatley be a floorless shelter type, ifeel thats the only way to go with stoves and all the other benifits of a floorless shelter which i know your acustomed to the shelter wont be like the USGI half, all thow it would be verry simple that away, hopefully what im dooing wont be too hard for most,but if it proves to be then there is allways like you said modifying an exsting shelter. such as the GOLITE HEX3 and i have actually taken a golite lair and modified that when i first started dooing this sort of thing i think i paid like $100.00 for a lair ill have to see if i can dig up some old pics of the lair.
............................................................................................
so what about all you other guys?? any body else having any luck putting any thing together??

[Dak Kovar]

Capital idea using the arrows. Just yesterday I came in possession of about 80 and some of them are damaged and useless for shooting. Guess what I'm going to do with them. I was out bid on the hotel pans and I'm going to let them go. I still think they would make a great take down stove.

DK

[CAMOEDTJ]

DAK KOVAR
the amo can sounds interesting.have you tried those hole saw yet? what size amo can are you using? this thread is to cool cant wait to see more pics. vacuum hose pipe i need to check out i missed that one. to bad the hotel pans were a no go that shape looked promising and easey to modify. ok never mind i see that your gona try the 50 amo can.

[Dak Kovar]

...

[CAMOEDTJ]

SamuraiBobX26
* * * *


Posts: 950
Location: The Rocket City (Huntsville, Alabama)
Joined: 24 Nov 2007
Posted: Mon Feb 25, 2008 8:40 pm Post subject:

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Thats pretty neat CAMOEDTJ.

With all of the ideas on here, I hope that when I make mine it will look half as good as everyones stoves.
_________________
Look Ma, Zombies. Can I kill them? Please
The Correct Term is the "Living Dead" and you can not kill them. There already DEAD...
Good! Then nobody will have any objections if I kill them again! Remember mom, I talked about this on the INTERNET.

ZOMBIE SQUAD...We make dead things DEADER



THANKS SAMURIBOBX26 it would have looked better if i used the stainless hinges but oh well
heck thats half the fun in figurig out how to make a stove on the cheap side

[Squirrley]

Yes, it's always best to gather all materials, and pre-assemble/mock up before you start cutting or drilling or anything. =P But its hard, starting a project like this is very exciting and you want to get going NAO!

[AltimGXE]

I just came across one of the 5L Heineken draught kegs, I'll take some measurements of it when I get the chance. Not sure if it is made of stainless steel, it is probably regular steel with some kind of lining on the inside.

[CavemanSam]

This thread is oozing with win, as predicted.

Just had a question: If you had a barrel type container, like a pot or keg, would it be better to have the stove upright with a flat surface on top, or horizontal?

It seems like a lot of these cylindrical stoves are horizontal. Is there a particular reason for doing it that way as opposed to upright? Pro and cons?

[Molon Labe]

This thread is oozing with win, as predicted.

Just had a question: If you had a barrel type container, like a pot or keg, would it be better to have the stove upright with a flat surface on top, or horizontal?

It seems like a lot of these cylindrical stoves are horizontal. Is there a particular reason for doing it that way as opposed to upright? Pro and cons?

I think, if I remember correctly, that it has something to do with the drawing of oxygen and the exhausting of smoke in a manner that won't fill your tent up with shit that kills you. I couldn't pay attention long enough to understand it all. I was to busy trying to come up with a way to pee with out losing the ol' man hood.

Kids, if you ever get the chance to train on the Shackleton Iceshelf, you tell that man to rightly "Go Fuck Yourself Sir!"

[Squirrley]

I'd imagine a cylinder on its side makes a lot more efficient stove shape, than on end. The top is closer to the fire for more heat, and the fire bed or w/e you call it, the place where you make fire, is long and rectangular for extra fire goodness, instead of small. And farther away from the top.