Help me understand 1911s

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Re: Help me understand 1911s

Post by jeffrey » Fri May 20, 2011 5:45 pm

I'm a "series 70" guy.

If I see an external extractor, I run away!

In my opinion, the best 1911 for the money is the STI Spartan, even if it does have the drop safety.

My buddy has a Taurus PT1911 that runs like a top. He shoots it in Limited 10 and has a B classification.

My Kimber Desert Warrior is loose and sloppy (approx 15k rounds fired). I can make 1 hole at 7 yards with it, if I do my part. I didn't want a Kimber at all, but this particular one had what I wanted in a 1911 and was priced right (used). In other words, brand is not everything. It must fit your needs. It doesn't have to come from EB LB NH or WC to be a nice piece.

Don't get me wrong, $1500k+ customs are great. The bobtail varieties are especially tempting as a carry piece.
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Re: Help me understand 1911s

Post by Rednex » Fri May 20, 2011 7:44 pm

I have a Para G.I Expert. When i was looking at different versions of 1911's ther were some things i like some i didn't. The speed bump on most of the beaver tails i did not like. I did like the fixed 3 dot sights over the standard G.I. sights. Beveled mag wells, lowered and flaired something or other , bob tailed and all that stuff. I dont know if i needed/liked it or not so i went for the one that had what i know i wanted.

Go out handle a few to get your bearings, hold a G.I in one hand and an upgraded one in the other. See what looks/ feels better. Make a list of the options you know you want sights, safety, ect.

If you were closer i would let you shoot mine. Go and rent a few from a range shoot , hold, and eye ball then.
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Re: Help me understand 1911s

Post by chills1994 » Sun May 22, 2011 4:51 am

I think it comes down to MIM parts or not. MIM is "metal injection molded" or something like that. It is a cheap way to make gun parts.

Supposedly, your higher end guns will come with machined from a billet parts.

I have two 1911's.

One is a Colt 80 Series in stainless that I got back when I was a brand new Lt. at Pope AFB/Ft. Bragg. Jeeshh...there is no telling how many rounds I have through it now. It is loose enough that I can shake it and feel the slide rattle on the frame. It is currently wearing an Advantage Arms .22 conversion top end which has a C-more red dot on top of it. Back when I got it in say like 1995, it retailed right around $600. I have probably put an extra 600 dollars into it. It came with a plastic mainspring housing. It also came with plastic trigger.

I swapped those out and also installed a full length guide rod. Then fast forward to about 2006. I had a local "smith" mill the slide for a front sight dovetail and a rear BOMAR adjustable sight. He put in some really super wide front sight...I wish I had known better to go with something about 0.090" thick/wide...arrggh...jeesh... The "smith" also did a trigger job on it with the existing parts. I got it back from him, and I got to fire all of about 3 rounds through it at my next trip to the range. So I took it back to him and got charged to put in a better sear. The original one I had in there cracked. Hmmn...interesting....So that explains why I am putting "smith" in quotation marks. He may know what he is doing machine/mill-wise, but his concept of customer service, IMO, is/was flawed...and I kinda felt like I got rookey doo-ed.

So fast forward to about 2007 or 2008, and I hear that STI has stopped making their Trojan models in stainless.

WHAT?!?! :shock:

So I called around and found one of the last ones from Shooter's Connection. I get it delivered to my local FFL shop for the transfer. I open the box/bag and I am disappointed. it's now about ten years later, but 600 more dollars, and it still came with a plastic mainspring housing and a plastic trigger. Yeah, that's right, a $1,200 gun still came with plastic parts on it. :x I think I have sunk at least another $300 into it, and there is still stuff I would like to do to it.

Anywhooo... the moral of this story is that in all the glossy advertising that you'll end up drooling over, none of it will say what parts are plastic, or MIM.

As far as a G.I. versus other, I think the most important, eye searingly obvious thing is that the G.I. guns come with a non-existent beavertail, and one of those hammers that just says "BITE ME!" Ouch, yeah, that'll leave a mark. getting a for real beavertail fitted will probably require the filing of the frame and that will in turn require the gun to get refinished.

Get an STI Spartan for about $600. It'll be a blued/parkerized gun, NOT stainless. It is actually made in the Phillipines by ARMSCOR. And now, you might also be able to get it in 9mm or .40, not just .45 ACP.

the website is stiguns.com .

once you get, shoot the bejeepers out of it, then decide what you would like done to it.
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Re: Help me understand 1911s

Post by Stercutus » Sun May 22, 2011 7:24 am

So if I'm correct the general thought is to buy less, modify to accommodate personal preference and run the fuck out of the thing.
That is not a bad idea. There is no real mystery 1911 pistols a lot of it is preference you will develop through experience. If you are talking really high round counts (over 6K a year) I would not go cheap and avoid MIM stuff. Anything under that and you will likely be fine.

Some parts (like bushings and extractors) Kimber used to make with MIM and then quit doing it, some they still make MIM. If you buy a used gun it is a bit of hit and miss. Once I bought one with the old style extractor and had them send me the new one for free.

So get something entry level and after some heavy use it will tell you what you want.
Yeah, that's right, a $1,200 gun still came with plastic parts on it.
Edit- I have seen a host of guns of dubious quality that were similarly priced and made of all metal. I have seen weapons with plastic parts with rock solid reliability. I would not get too wedded to the idea that just because something is plastic it will not last or work properly. It has certainly been proven that is not the case.
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Re: Help me understand 1911s

Post by Brandon2099 » Sun May 22, 2011 8:53 am

ahaha. I woke up this morning with the intention of posting this exact same question!

I got my Springer GI and I've been making some mods to it. Personally I don't feel the lack of beavertail/small grip safety is an issue. I hardly notice hammer bite. I traded a CZ-75 for it and it came with pre-installed night-sights. Then I replaced the arched mainspring housing with a flat one to make it sit better in my hand and feel more comfortable. Got some Miltac G-10 grips on the way for it. Everything else is sweet perfection.

Way some people talk there's no way they would trust their life to anything short of a custom $2500 Wilson. People on a local forum talked down to me for getting a Springer GI like all I got was a collector's gun. Most of what I'm hearing from you guys is a non-issue. I've always preferred the GI style guns and so i went with that. "newer" looking 1911s don't do it for me like the old GI Governments.
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Re: Help me understand 1911s

Post by KaceCoyote » Sun May 22, 2011 10:11 pm

chills1994 wrote:I think it comes down to MIM parts or not. MIM is "metal injection molded" or something like that. It is a cheap way to make gun parts.

Supposedly, your higher end guns will come with machined from a billet parts.

I have two 1911's.

One is a Colt 80 Series in stainless that I got back when I was a brand new Lt. at Pope AFB/Ft. Bragg. Jeeshh...there is no telling how many rounds I have through it now. It is loose enough that I can shake it and feel the slide rattle on the frame. It is currently wearing an Advantage Arms .22 conversion top end which has a C-more red dot on top of it. Back when I got it in say like 1995, it retailed right around $600. I have probably put an extra 600 dollars into it. It came with a plastic mainspring housing. It also came with plastic trigger.

I swapped those out and also installed a full length guide rod. Then fast forward to about 2006. I had a local "smith" mill the slide for a front sight dovetail and a rear BOMAR adjustable sight. He put in some really super wide front sight...I wish I had known better to go with something about 0.090" thick/wide...arrggh...jeesh... The "smith" also did a trigger job on it with the existing parts. I got it back from him, and I got to fire all of about 3 rounds through it at my next trip to the range. So I took it back to him and got charged to put in a better sear. The original one I had in there cracked. Hmmn...interesting....So that explains why I am putting "smith" in quotation marks. He may know what he is doing machine/mill-wise, but his concept of customer service, IMO, is/was flawed...and I kinda felt like I got rookey doo-ed.

So fast forward to about 2007 or 2008, and I hear that STI has stopped making their Trojan models in stainless.

WHAT?!?! :shock:

So I called around and found one of the last ones from Shooter's Connection. I get it delivered to my local FFL shop for the transfer. I open the box/bag and I am disappointed. it's now about ten years later, but 600 more dollars, and it still came with a plastic mainspring housing and a plastic trigger. Yeah, that's right, a $1,200 gun still came with plastic parts on it. :x I think I have sunk at least another $300 into it, and there is still stuff I would like to do to it.

Anywhooo... the moral of this story is that in all the glossy advertising that you'll end up drooling over, none of it will say what parts are plastic, or MIM.

As far as a G.I. versus other, I think the most important, eye searingly obvious thing is that the G.I. guns come with a non-existent beavertail, and one of those hammers that just says "BITE ME!" Ouch, yeah, that'll leave a mark. getting a for real beavertail fitted will probably require the filing of the frame and that will in turn require the gun to get refinished.

Get an STI Spartan for about $600. It'll be a blued/parkerized gun, NOT stainless. It is actually made in the Phillipines by ARMSCOR. And now, you might also be able to get it in 9mm or .40, not just .45 ACP.

the website is stiguns.com .

once you get, shoot the bejeepers out of it, then decide what you would like done to it.
STI Spartan sounds pretty awesome. Tell me about those sights though. I have adjustable sights on my .22, which I've never had to really dick with but realistically wouldnt fixed sights be a better option if this thing was gonna go camping with me and get shot the shit out of?
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Re: Help me understand 1911s

Post by SeerSavant » Sun May 22, 2011 10:33 pm

Brandon2099 wrote:ahaha. I woke up this morning with the intention of posting this exact same question!

I got my Springer GI and I've been making some mods to it. Personally I don't feel the lack of beavertail/small grip safety is an issue. I hardly notice hammer bite. I traded a CZ-75 for it and it came with pre-installed night-sights. Then I replaced the arched mainspring housing with a flat one to make it sit better in my hand and feel more comfortable. Got some Miltac G-10 grips on the way for it. Everything else is sweet perfection.

Way some people talk there's no way they would trust their life to anything short of a custom $2500 Wilson. People on a local forum talked down to me for getting a Springer GI like all I got was a collector's gun. Most of what I'm hearing from you guys is a non-issue. I've always preferred the GI style guns and so i went with that. "newer" looking 1911s don't do it for me like the old GI Governments.
I've got a basic Springer GI in stainless, and the only thing I have had done is a set of Hogue grips, I do intend on putting some decent sights on it, but right now I'm primarily concerned with putting as much lead thru it as I can afford.
I've fired a few higher end 1911s, and a few RIA basic models... Can't really tell the difference...

In a weird way, it sucks that I don't really care to change anything... I'm, well, happy with it...
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Re: Help me understand 1911s

Post by Stumasters » Mon May 23, 2011 11:02 am

I just bought my first 1911 this year, without ever having even shot one more then maybe 10 times in my life. Didn't even know if I would like it, but I did :-)

I went with the Springfield Range Officer, and mainly because of the adjustable sights. Some people will not like them so they will go back to fixed, and it's pretty widely known that adjustable sights on a 1911 just compensate for bad shooting techniques and fundamentals, which I am still trying to work on.

I was turned on by the Springfield after owning my XD for a few years now and having virtually no issues with it's performance whatsoever. My father in law who shoots the 1911 competitively and was a state champ a few years back has based his 1911 off of a Springfield frame and slide, but replaced pretty much everything else with match grade parts.

Luckily the RO comes with a match trigger and barrel, but a heavy spring I might have to lighten at some point.

I have shot about 100 rounds through mine already and had no problems. It feels great with my Packmeyer *sp?* grips, and does what it's supposed to.

While shopping I was also looking at the Para entry level GI version as well. It was about 300 bucks cheaper, but I wanted to stick with SA due to my experience with them.

I was also told that Rock Island Armory made a decent entry level that you could build on over time to improve, but that was hearsay from forum chatter.
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Re: Help me understand 1911s

Post by jrswanson1 » Mon May 23, 2011 12:21 pm

KaceCoyote wrote:Do I -need- a flared ejection port to have a reliable pistol for instance?
Reliable? No. Reloadable brass? Yes. A 1911 with a plain ejection port puts a nice big ding in the middle of the case. I don't reload those, as the second or third firing with that brass will result in a split case. One of the big things that effects 1911 reliability is magazines. Don't get crap mags.

My example? The Kimber 10mm mags suck like a shop vac. The Mecgar mag wasn't so hot, either. Premature locking of the slide, Failure to Feeds, and nose diving cartridges. I finally broke down and bought three Chip McCormack mags and they all function well. I'll be picking up a few more and relegating the Kimber and Mecgar to range use, only, or if I need to practice malfunction drills for a class.

BTW, MIM parts will either break in the first 500 rounds, or they'll last forever. My Kimber has over 1000 rounds of full power 10mm through it, and I've had no parts breakage, including the plastic mainspring housing and the various MIM parts. Now that I've gotten more brass, I'll be putting more rounds through it.

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Re: Help me understand 1911s

Post by Mangangali » Mon May 23, 2011 4:11 pm

KaceCoyote wrote: Get an STI Spartan for about $600. It'll be a blued/parkerized gun, NOT stainless. It is actually made in the Phillipines by ARMSCOR. And now, you might also be able to get it in 9mm or .40, not just .45 ACP.


STI Spartan sounds pretty awesome. Tell me about those sights though. I have adjustable sights on my .22, which I've never had to really dick with but realistically wouldnt fixed sights be a better option if this thing was gonna go camping with me and get shot the shit out of?
Another +1 for the Spartan as a starter 1911.

My first was a "high end" 1911, I chose after spending a few weeks shooting various friends low to high end 1911's. Less than a month later I picked a STI Spartan. I was totally impressed with the gun that was nearly 2k cheaper than my first.

As to the sights I ran roughly 5k round through it, before gifting it to a family member, and never once had to adjust the "adjustable" rear sight. The front fiber optic made the front sight positively glow, not in a bad way, when it picked up some sunlight.
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Re: Help me understand 1911s

Post by Unorthodox » Mon May 23, 2011 4:21 pm

Alright, lemme break it down:

- You want no MIM Parts (Yes, they will either break, or they won't...but there is no sign of breakage until it happens. Which is bad. Mr. Murphy will rear his head in at the most inopportune times)
- Stick with a Standard GI Guide Rod (Like someone else said, Full Length only assists in making the gun harder to strip down)
- You would likely want a gun that has a more modern sight system. Doesn't matter what the hell it is so long as it isn't the GI set up (if you want a reproduction WWII banger, then go for it) You can always swap a Novak knock off for a more robust sight later...milling a slide is expensive.
- Mags, Mags, Mags and Mags. CMC, Wilson and Tripp are generally solid. But this is the 1911 we're talking about. Same two guns, one might like Wilson, other the CMC. Don't be afraid to try one brand and toss it out...mags are expendable
- Tune Ups: 1911's are like cars, there are scheduled maintenance and tune up times to keep shit like the extractor tensioned and springs swapped. But don't just send your pistola to some local joe to work on it. Endevor to send your pistol to a trusted and reputable smith....yes you'll be out of a gun for a time, but its better than having some boob tear your gun apart. Or you can learn to do it yourself. Working an extractor isn't exactly rocket science, and doing a fresh swap of springs with Wolff springs doesn't require a PhD

Out of all of that, the most pain in the ass and controversial are the MIM parts. You can get a fully barstock gun and pay out the ass for it. Or you can upgrade the ignition system to something like a Vickers Set and assuage many of the worries about MIM.

If I were to say the most important aspect about 1911's is: Mags. Second being Springs...MIM you can upgrade as you go
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Re: Help me understand 1911s

Post by Stercutus » Tue May 24, 2011 1:36 am

Yeah, that is thing about MIM parts just about everyone uses them. By everyone I mean Colt, H&K and a host of other quality gun makers. People have put tens of thousands of rounds through thousands of guns with MIM parts with no issues. So equating MIM with low quality or "it will break any time now" is not really truthful in of itself.
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Re: Help me understand 1911s

Post by MrAcheson » Tue May 24, 2011 8:07 am

Mangangali wrote:
KaceCoyote wrote: Get an STI Spartan for about $600. It'll be a blued/parkerized gun, NOT stainless. It is actually made in the Phillipines by ARMSCOR. And now, you might also be able to get it in 9mm or .40, not just .45 ACP.


STI Spartan sounds pretty awesome. Tell me about those sights though. I have adjustable sights on my .22, which I've never had to really dick with but realistically wouldnt fixed sights be a better option if this thing was gonna go camping with me and get shot the shit out of?
Another +1 for the Spartan as a starter 1911.

My first was a "high end" 1911, I chose after spending a few weeks shooting various friends low to high end 1911's. Less than a month later I picked a STI Spartan. I was totally impressed with the gun that was nearly 2k cheaper than my first.

As to the sights I ran roughly 5k round through it, before gifting it to a family member, and never once had to adjust the "adjustable" rear sight. The front fiber optic made the front sight positively glow, not in a bad way, when it picked up some sunlight.
The Spartan and the RIA Match pistol are the same gun with minor superficial changes. If you can't find one, go for the other.

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Re: Help me understand 1911s

Post by Brandon2099 » Thu May 26, 2011 11:00 am

Image

Here's mine. :P Trijicon night sights that came pre-installed from the gentleman I traded to for it. Miltac G-10 grips 'cause I personally find wood sexy, but slippery when my hands start to sweat. Flat MSH, because I didn't like the way the arched mainspring housing sat in my hand. It's honestly my perfect pistol and I plan on EDCing it. The Galco summer comfort made it feel light as air on my hip for twelve hours yesterday doing yardwork and just puttering around.
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Re: Help me understand 1911s

Post by RocktownLivingDead » Thu May 26, 2011 10:56 pm

I have a Para Ordance G.I. Expert that I'm picking up tomorrow. I traded a Centery Arms L1A1 and cash my way for it. I wanted a 1911 and always have. I couldn't afford to feed the L1A1 and had no range near me to shoot. I think and feel I got a good deal on the Para G.I.

I think you are getting a lot of good advice here and the best thing to do is set down, break the models down and put into a list of what you want, what you can and cant live without.

I can't say it to be 100% but if some of the basic models have steel sites on them, you will not be able to change them out unless you change the slide out (I think I'm wrong on this).

The Para can be changed out and I'm sure the Springfield G.I. can be changed out. The parts that will be swapped out I'm sure on most if not all models will need to be fitted.

I would look at the Rock Islands as well, great guns and great prices and take any and every part out there.

I did see a post or so talking about doing a custom build, you can't get a 1911 frame for the price of some basic models and going basic and learning it and the adding what you want, to me is the better option.

I agree with keeping it KISS, it's been around for 100 years and still going strong.

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Re: Help me understand 1911s

Post by doubleohseven » Thu May 26, 2011 11:15 pm

http://www.smithandalexander.com/guides.html

Yeah, that's right. I said it.

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Re: Help me understand 1911s

Post by KaceCoyote » Thu May 26, 2011 11:58 pm

BTW, Opinions on ATI's offerings? Some forums suggest they're totally on par with RIA. Also, my local shop has them on the cheap.
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Re: Help me understand 1911s

Post by KaceCoyote » Fri May 27, 2011 12:04 am

USMCguysak47 wrote:I have a Para Ordance G.I. Expert that I'm picking up tomorrow. I traded a Centery Arms L1A1 and cash my way for it. I wanted a 1911 and always have. I couldn't afford to feed the L1A1 and had no range near me to shoot. I think and feel I got a good deal on the Para G.I.

I think you are getting a lot of good advice here and the best thing to do is set down, break the models down and put into a list of what you want, what you can and cant live without.

I can't say it to be 100% but if some of the basic models have steel sites on them, you will not be able to change them out unless you change the slide out (I think I'm wrong on this).

The Para can be changed out and I'm sure the Springfield G.I. can be changed out. The parts that will be swapped out I'm sure on most if not all models will need to be fitted.

I would look at the Rock Islands as well, great guns and great prices and take any and every part out there.

I did see a post or so talking about doing a custom build, you can't get a 1911 frame for the price of some basic models and going basic and learning it and the adding what you want, to me is the better option.

I agree with keeping it KISS, it's been around for 100 years and still going strong.

You are wrong. Every 1911 I've seen has a removable rear site, it just needs to be pressed out with a fancy tool.
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Re: Help me understand 1911s

Post by RocktownLivingDead » Fri May 27, 2011 10:24 am

KaceCoyote wrote:
USMCguysak47 wrote:I have a Para Ordance G.I. Expert that I'm picking up tomorrow. I traded a Centery Arms L1A1 and cash my way for it. I wanted a 1911 and always have. I couldn't afford to feed the L1A1 and had no range near me to shoot. I think and feel I got a good deal on the Para G.I.

I think you are getting a lot of good advice here and the best thing to do is set down, break the models down and put into a list of what you want, what you can and cant live without.

I can't say it to be 100% but if some of the basic models have steel sites on them, you will not be able to change them out unless you change the slide out (I think I'm wrong on this).

The Para can be changed out and I'm sure the Springfield G.I. can be changed out. The parts that will be swapped out I'm sure on most if not all models will need to be fitted.

I would look at the Rock Islands as well, great guns and great prices and take any and every part out there.

I did see a post or so talking about doing a custom build, you can't get a 1911 frame for the price of some basic models and going basic and learning it and the adding what you want, to me is the better option.

I agree with keeping it KISS, it's been around for 100 years and still going strong.

You are wrong. Every 1911 I've seen has a removable rear site, it just needs to be pressed out with a fancy tool.
I thought I might be wrong on that but wasnt sure. I thought I had seen some that couldnt be so thanks for clearing that up and thats good news for me too, now when I look at my next 1911 i wont worry about that to much. Thanks.

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Re: Help me understand 1911s

Post by RocktownLivingDead » Fri May 27, 2011 3:55 pm

I just held the Para G.I. and it felt good in my hand. I'm just waiting for my background check to go through and it will be home with and a full range report on it.

So OP if you get a chance to hold one go for it and then hold the RIA, Springfield and others.

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Re: Help me understand 1911s

Post by shoggoth80 » Fri May 27, 2011 5:26 pm

Many, many flavors of 1911 out there. I have owned a RIA Tactical, and it was a good gun. Had many upgrades and a killer price. Traded it a while ago, because I have a semi-custom 1911 now.
Many of the higher end guns will have tighter tolerances... like slide fit, barrel lug fit, hood fitting etc. Those all aid in accuracy to some degree I believe. A nicely fitted barrel is probably the way to get the most accuracy out of your pistol. Other typical things seen on higher end models would be different serrations on the slide, forward serrations, checkered frontstrap, and maybe a slightly relieved area where the trigger guard meets frontstrap. Sometimes you will see a checkered mainspring housing, speed bump grip safety (also sometimes checkered) that is also the higher rise beavertail, and a commander rowel style hammer. Full length guide rods aren't unusual upgrades either... and there are many, *many* types of sights to put on. Adjustable triggers are often seen as well. Bull barrels (conical near the muzzle) are pretty nice... just a hair more complicated to tear down... but they tend to be a little thicker/more rigid from what I can tell, which may, or may not have gains in accuracy.... but they also lock up really solid when fit right, and the lockup will affect accuracy. Ambi safeties are nice, if you are lefty, or foresee not being able to manipulate a single sided safety with your off hand (should you need to shoot weak sided). Another common addition is a magwell to facilitate mag changes, the amount of fitting and blending will affect the overall price tag, as from what I have seen on the matter, it is time consuming.

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Re: Help me understand 1911s

Post by KaceCoyote » Sun May 29, 2011 8:51 pm

Looks like I'm gonna pull the trigger on an RIA GI, cuz I really dont want ambi controls and I reckon I can change the sights down the road if they really bug me.

Any reason I should snag the Springer GI over an RIA before I pull the trigger?
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Re: Help me understand 1911s

Post by shoggoth80 » Mon May 30, 2011 2:12 am

I have no experience with the Springer, so can't comment to that.
I have called the guys at RIA (the main office in NV)... just for help to get a few parts for a semi-custom build. They were very nice, and helpful (I think I talked to Ivan and Arnel). they also are active posters on 1911forum.com (think it is Ivan), and try to maintain some level of "ear to the ground" in regards to customers wants/needs. Pretty sure there is a limited lifetime warranty on the RIA stuff, and Arnel has put together more than one custom gun for customers (there was a killer longslide he built shown on 1911forum a while back)...so I'd say that he is a pretty good gunsmith on top of it all.

The RIA will be a parkerized finish... not sure what the Springer comes in. The parkerizing is more of a military style finish (WWII 1911s were parked), and holds up pretty well. Not a beauty queen, but well, that depends on your aesthetics. I like parkerized finishes. The only beef I have with the plane Jane RIA GI, is that the sights are very much like GI sights... tiny. The Tactical has Novak sights, or at least Novak style (heard the dovetail is a little different), and are easier to see/line up faster. Also, unless they started putting on different grips... the stock grips will probably be the first thing you change. GI grips are comfy enough, slim, and provide a pretty solid grip (had them on my RIA). My semi-custom has Pachmayrs on them (cheapest way to get better grips AND a checkered frontstrap :mrgreen: ).

For the price, hard to go wrong. Any entry level GI style 1911 is going to have some minor inaccuracies... a slight compromise. Heard the RIA is actual GI spec parts, but I have not verified this. To some degree, if it is true, this can be an advantage when sourcing spares.

Personally, I still want one of their compacts.

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Re: Help me understand 1911s

Post by KaceCoyote » Mon May 30, 2011 4:19 am

shoggoth80 wrote:I have no experience with the Springer, so can't comment to that.
I have called the guys at RIA (the main office in NV)... just for help to get a few parts for a semi-custom build. They were very nice, and helpful (I think I talked to Ivan and Arnel). they also are active posters on 1911forum.com (think it is Ivan), and try to maintain some level of "ear to the ground" in regards to customers wants/needs. Pretty sure there is a limited lifetime warranty on the RIA stuff, and Arnel has put together more than one custom gun for customers (there was a killer longslide he built shown on 1911forum a while back)...so I'd say that he is a pretty good gunsmith on top of it all.

The RIA will be a parkerized finish... not sure what the Springer comes in. The parkerizing is more of a military style finish (WWII 1911s were parked), and holds up pretty well. Not a beauty queen, but well, that depends on your aesthetics. I like parkerized finishes. The only beef I have with the plane Jane RIA GI, is that the sights are very much like GI sights... tiny. The Tactical has Novak sights, or at least Novak style (heard the dovetail is a little different), and are easier to see/line up faster. Also, unless they started putting on different grips... the stock grips will probably be the first thing you change. GI grips are comfy enough, slim, and provide a pretty solid grip (had them on my RIA). My semi-custom has Pachmayrs on them (cheapest way to get better grips AND a checkered frontstrap :mrgreen: ).

For the price, hard to go wrong. Any entry level GI style 1911 is going to have some minor inaccuracies... a slight compromise. Heard the RIA is actual GI spec parts, but I have not verified this. To some degree, if it is true, this can be an advantage when sourcing spares.

Personally, I still want one of their compacts.
Yeah already looking at techwells with G10. I also joined 1911forum, which seems to mesh with me a little more. I'm fine with park, it needs to be a shooter not a looker. I see the little skate board cutouts for the front strap on every other 1911, is there a premade front strap thingy somewhere or is it strictly a cut your own sort of affair? Will likely swap out the sights down the road, but its going to be awhile before this is a defensive gun. Thoughts on the ease of a hammer swap or beaver tail swap? The spur does nothing for me, and the GI grip safety seems pretty minimal. Are these things I can realistically do myself? I've built 2 ARs now and stuff, but I'm not sure how "plug and play" AR stuff is and everything advises fitting is required.
Kace, the Coyote without a cause.

Only bovines and homosexuals come out of Texas -Politically corrected R Lee Ermey


When the smoke clear, you can see the sky again
There will be the chopped off heads of leviathan
My friend, they call 'em strangers
Everybody talk to him end up in some danger
-MF Doom, Strange Ways

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