All purpose "Help me build my AR" thread.

[RickOShea]

Okay, so what's the best way to get your barrel nut to cooperate and index correctly? The previous notch is too loose, but I can't get it all the way past the next one, close, but like a quarter-notch short. Any ideas?

Yeah, you gotta torque it on-&-off at least three times to get a proper index. It'll turn a little further each time you do it.

[0122358]

you know what sucks about firing left handed...when my Ar is hanging off my 2 point sling in front of my chest...if i ever dive to the ground, the Forward assist jams right into my sternum...ouch

[Doctorr Fabulous]

you know what sucks about firing left handed...when my Ar is hanging off my 2 point sling in front of my chest...if i ever dive to the ground, the Forward assist jams right into my sternum...ouch

Why would your rifle hit the ground?

[RickOShea]

you know what sucks about firing left handed...when my Ar is hanging off my 2 point sling in front of my chest...if i ever dive to the ground, the Forward assist jams right into my sternum...ouch

At least it's not the latch on your Gunfighter charging handle.

[KentsOkay]

you know what sucks about firing left handed...when my Ar is hanging off my 2 point sling in front of my chest...if i ever dive to the ground, the Forward assist jams right into my sternum...ouch

This is why you do an awesome tactical barrel roll and land on your back, gun in hand pointed at the enemy, duh.

[0122358]

you know what sucks about firing left handed...when my Ar is hanging off my 2 point sling in front of my chest...if i ever dive to the ground, the Forward assist jams right into my sternum...ouch

Why would your rifle hit the ground?

good question...uh guess i didnt think about it.

[Doctorr Fabulous]

you know what sucks about firing left handed...when my Ar is hanging off my 2 point sling in front of my chest...if i ever dive to the ground, the Forward assist jams right into my sternum...ouch

This is why you do an awesome tactical barrel roll and land on your back, gun in hand pointed at the enemy, duh.

Sort of. You just never ever ever land on your rufle. Train it, and it becomes this catlike thing where guys do complete 180 flips in the air and land with their rifle up.

[KentsOkay]

you know what sucks about firing left handed...when my Ar is hanging off my 2 point sling in front of my chest...if i ever dive to the ground, the Forward assist jams right into my sternum...ouch

This is why you do an awesome tactical barrel roll and land on your back, gun in hand pointed at the enemy, duh.

Sort of. You just never ever ever land on your rufle. Train it, and it becomes this catlike thing where guys do complete 180 flips in the air and land with their rifle up.

Thus the lack of blue text

I've been going nuts with my air pistol during my daily exercise routine, jumping and diving and rolling into cover and stuff. Pretty soon I'm going to have to find some real curriculum and quit using sword/hand fighting skills combined with what I see in John Woo movies...

[PistolPete]

I'm considering a "not ridiculously heavy" rifle build. I've got a AR-15 with a bull barrel, and it's a great shooter (the most accurate rifle I own) but too damn heavy to carry around. I'm looking for a rifle that can rival it in accuracy (1 MOA 5 shot groups with match ammo, TAP and handloads) but doesn't have a barrel that weighs 5 lbs on it's own. (probably exaggerating, but not by much!)

Any suggestions? I'm open to barrels longer than 20" but there doesn't seem to be a wide selection out there.

[Regular Guy]

Pete, the most accurate AR I owned was barreled with a 16" ER Shaw S/S fluted. I got it from Model 1 Sales*. I had it free floated with YHM handguard. The barrel itself was a medium contour with a 5.56 chamber with a 1/8 twist. If I recall it hovered around 8.5 lbs with optics.

It would easily shoot sub MOA for about 30 rds. 1-3 MOA when it was hot.

You might want to look at the Daniel Defense S2W CHF barrels.

*Strangely, it didn't burst into flames and didn't malfunction.

[RickOShea]

I'm considering a "not ridiculously heavy" rifle build. I've got a AR-15 with a bull barrel, and it's a great shooter (the most accurate rifle I own) but too damn heavy to carry around. I'm looking for a rifle that can rival it in accuracy (1 MOA 5 shot groups with match ammo, TAP and handloads) but doesn't have a barrel that weighs 5 lbs on it's own. (probably exaggerating, but not by much!)

Any suggestions? I'm open to barrels longer than 20" but there doesn't seem to be a wide selection out there.

I really like the BCM SPR mk12 with the 18" barrel. I built one similar to it, except I used a 16" middy barrel. It loves the heavier stuff, especially 75gr TAP (but I haven't had the chance to try it past 300 yards yet).

BCM Mk12:

[Doctorr Fabulous]

So far my DD M4LW v1 is MOA accurate as far away as I can shoot. Any decent 16 or 18in milspec gun will do the job with the addition of a freefloat. Maybe look into a .223 Wylde chamber to squeeze out the extra precision.

Sent via Neural Net Uplink

[PistolPete]

So far my DD M4LW v1 is MOA accurate as far away as I can shoot. Any decent 16 or 18in milspec gun will do the job with the addition of a freefloat. Maybe look into a .223 Wylde chamber to squeeze out the extra precision.

Sent via Neural Net Uplink

Yeah, I've got a Wylde chamber in the gun I've got now. I was thinking a longer barrel for more velocity and a flatter arc. Although 18" is attractive. There's a fair bit of velocity that can be gained with a 20" barrel over a 16".

[Doctorr Fabulous]

Shouldn't be much at all.

MV 2000-2500 fps, the approximate change in MV per 1" change in barrel length is 10 fps.
MV 2500-3000 fps, the approximate change in MV per 1" change in barrel length is 20 fps.
MV 3000-3500 fps, the approximate change in MV per 1" change in barrel length is 30 fps.
MV 3500-4000 fps, the approximate change in MV per 1" change in barrel length is 40 fps.

60 fps for 2 inches isn't bad. A 20 inch standard profile would be decently light though. Maybe look at the Mk12 DMR for inspiration, thought I would say upgrade the stock and grip. KAC freefloat, 20in barrel, .223 Wylde chamber, and the furniture of your choice should easily put you in submoa range. With the mk12s we had guys popping 8" pie plates at a grand without sandbags, grouping about six inches wide at that range using the Harris bipods. At 300m there were some shooters getting .5moa all day.

Sent via Neural Net Uplink

[majorhavoc]

Deal Alert

Harbor Freight 1/2" torque wrench, reg. $19.99, reg $34.99. Price reduces to $9.99 with coupon code "67636113". $6.99 shipping.

http://www.harborfreight.com/1-2-half-inch-drive-click-stop-torque-wrench-239.html



Torque range: 20-150 ft. lbs.
Heavy duty cam and pawl mechanism
Reversible
Wrench length: 18"

By no means an heirloom tool, but will get the job done if you're considering building your own AR upper.

[SwampRat]

Standing here over the workbench, rifle and parts in front of me. And my new barrel does not have the grooves for the front sight gasblock retaining pins. Any ideas?


Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using Tapatalk 2

[nimdabew]

Standing here over the workbench, rifle and parts in front of me. And my new barrel does not have the grooves for the front sight gasblock retaining pins. Any ideas?


Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using Tapatalk 2

The idea is taht you get a FSB or Gas block and get someone with a reamer to do it right. Don't attempt to do with at home with a hand drill.

Does it have a dimple on the bottom of the barrel?

[0122358]

its the gneral concensus that double feeds, false double feeds and failure to exract are cuased by extractor issues correct? so upgrading to an upgrade kit like BCM is reccomended...

Installing an H-buffer is not nessesarily needed correct?

Carbine gas system, semi-auto bolt.

[SwampRat]

Standing here over the workbench, rifle and parts in front of me. And my new barrel does not have the grooves for the front sight gasblock retaining pins. Any ideas?


Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using Tapatalk 2

The idea is taht you get a FSB or Gas block and get someone with a reamer to do it right. Don't attempt to do with at home with a hand drill.

Does it have a dimple on the bottom of the barrel?

No dimple... This makes me sad. first new barrel I've bought. I was under the impression it would allready be good to go. I guess I have to hunt down a gunsmith now?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using Tapatalk 2

[nimdabew]

Standing here over the workbench, rifle and parts in front of me. And my new barrel does not have the grooves for the front sight gasblock retaining pins. Any ideas?


Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using Tapatalk 2

The idea is taht you get a FSB or Gas block and get someone with a reamer to do it right. Don't attempt to do with at home with a hand drill.

Does it have a dimple on the bottom of the barrel?

No dimple... This makes me sad. first new barrel I've bought. I was under the impression it would allready be good to go. I guess I have to hunt down a gunsmith now?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using Tapatalk 2

Yep. I wouldn't worry about it though. Is this gas block going under a rail?

[SwampRat]

It's actually the front sight a2 style gas block. I'm going from a 20 inch heavy barrel and free float tube down to a 16" light profile and a moe handguard. Just trying to lighten things up a bit.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using Tapatalk 2

[UndeadInfidel]

Ugh. This just reaffirms my decision to buy pre assembled uppers. I'm at a point where I'd rather just be able to snap it on the lower.

I got good cash for my old 20" match upper, more than enough to purchase a PSA 16" full upper. If you don't care about tubes, they're cheap enough.

[nimdabew]

Send it to ADCO.

[RickOShea]

Ugh. This just reaffirms my decision to buy pre assembled uppers. I'm at a point where I'd rather just be able to snap it on the lower.

That's what I did for my retro rifles. Bought the assembled uppers and then swapped out the upper receivers. Just too much headache, otherwise.