Cleaning and Maintenance of your firearms

[HHaase]

Is there any circumstance where cleaning will reduce the accuracy of the gun?
I don't mean that the solvents will due this, I am asking about disassembly and assembly.

Is there such a thing as cleaning too much?

Yes, generally with older stuff in wooden stocks. Removing the action from a wooden stock, sometimes it can take a number of rounds before everything settles back into place. Until then, expect some wild grouping.

-Hans

[OKSoulMan]

Most claim that you start from the breech end of the barrel if all possible. It keeps you going in the same direction as the bullet travels and keeps you away from the crown. Bore snakes work well and there are also bore guides or single piece rods to help avoid some problems.

[nimdabew]

Most claim that you start from the breech end of the barrel if all possible. It keeps you going in the same direction as the bullet travels and keeps you away from the crown. Bore snakes work well and there are also bore guides or single piece rods to help avoid some problems.

They say this because you don't want to get all the shit in your bore in your champer and other small parts. There are instances where you need to start at crown end (like not having a long enough cleaning rod for an AR upper) but they are rare. Try cleaning from chamber to crown when possible. Use a bore guide as well.

[Bonecrusher Doc]

So from what you guys are saying, SKS and AK-47 are fairly easy to clean adequately. This is a big plus in my book, because I suck at cleaning and, consequently, I hate it. Always the last one to get approved by the guy with a white patch checking our M16A1s before we could turn them in, even after some other people would help me. I'm not sure if it's my attention span or what.

At any rate, could anyone recommend any other weapons that are very simple and quick to clean? Currently the only firearm I own is an M44, but when I get back to the States in a couple years I'll be considering rifles, shotguns, and handguns of various sizes and designs. I'm thinking something in the $300-$500 price range, but that's just to give you an idea.

Please feel free to direct me elsewhere; I figured this was the most appropriate thread.

[qwertyuiop]

The 1911 is extremely easy to clean. You can do an "adequate" cleaning job (field strip and clean) very quickly, and doing a periodic deep clean is not a big deal either. When you look online at the instructions on field stripping the 1911, it can look a little intimidating mostly because of the terminology and the constant cautions of "don't lose this spring" or "don't shoot your eye out with the bushing plug", but it looks a lot more complicated than it is. Consider that it was designed to be Army-proof. Maintenance is also dead simple and consists mostly of periodic checks to be sure that parts aren't worn. I have a WWII issue 1911 with thousands and thousands (over 5000 between my grandpa and myself) with all original parts excluding the hammer, which grandpa replaced 15 years ago for cosmetic reasons.

All that being said, Glocks are also very easy to clean. Yes, I know, blasphemy - a 1911 guy suggesting a Glock might be equal in some regard. They are easy though, so long as you don't mind having to pull the trigger to get a gun apart. If you have a toothbrush and a bore brush, you can get them spanky clean with not much more effort than it takes to brush your teeth.

The 870 is very easy to clean as well, once you get the "trick" of getting the forearm on and off. You snake the bore out after shooting, lube the rails and brush the bolt face every now and then, and every ten years or so degrease and regrease the trigger assembly. I don't know that I care to own another make of shotgun, except perhaps a Benelli autoloader one of these days.

Rifles are, well, rifles. Precision rifles require more cleaning than beaters. There is an AK at the family cabin that, legend says, has over 10k rounds through it without a cleaning. I've popped the dustcover off and looked inside, and I'd have to agree. There are internals that are actually rusting, and if it hasn't been fired in a month or two you generally have to kick the bolt open - but still operates fine.

Edit for typos.

[TheFreakinBear]

I'm wondering, how can I properly disassemble my Hi-Point J45?

I want to strip all the way down and clean that son of a gun hardcore style.


Oh wait, that's right, it's a hunk of metal, pistol grip, firing pin, and trigger. Sorry! Answered my own question!

I think I've cleaned out the barrel a handful of times but it only jams when I use the one magazine I dropped by accident the one day and immediately proceeded to step on. Otherwise it fires great.

I do have a question about the Walther P22. Is there anything special I should do when cleaning it? It fires great and is an awesome little pistol but it seems like I could do more when cleaning it. Thoughts?

[Pondo_Sinatra]

I do have a question about the Walther P22. Is there anything special I should do when cleaning it? It fires great and is an awesome little pistol but it seems like I could do more when cleaning it. Thoughts?

When I clean mine, I don't disassemble it further than what's specified in the instruction manual, but I do spray out the action with break-free and then dry it out with compressed air while it's still wet. That seems to get the grime out of the gun without having to take it completely apart. A nice light oiling after than, and I haven't had any issues with it so far.*

"First day out on the range on the way home from the gun shop it was jamming (failure to feed) with the black box CCI blazer. After a good cleaning and oiling, it hasn't jammed with any other ammo. I haven't tried it again with the blazer since I only had the two boxes I bought with the gun.

[TheFreakinBear]

Good to know. Thanks Farblue!

[benEzra]

Is there any circumstance where cleaning will reduce the accuracy of the gun?
I don't mean that the solvents will due this, I am asking about disassembly and assembly.

Is there such a thing as cleaning too much?

Overcleaning can produce excessive barrel wear, if carried to extremes. I suspect far more .22LR barrels have been worn out from overcleaning than from shooting, and I would use a cleaning rod sparingly on any firearm that had to be cleaned from the muzzle.

[nimdabew]

Is there any circumstance where cleaning will reduce the accuracy of the gun?
I don't mean that the solvents will due this, I am asking about disassembly and assembly.

Is there such a thing as cleaning too much?

Overcleaning can produce excessive barrel wear, if carried to extremes. I suspect far more .22LR barrels have been worn out from overcleaning than from shooting, and I would use a cleaning rod sparingly on any firearm that had to be cleaned from the muzzle.

I use bore snakes on my rifles. Since I don't have anything except 5.56 and .22lr, I only had to buy one snake. If I had another rifle, I would do the exact same thing. No sense on buying something you won't need in the future. If you do use a cleaning rod, make sure to use a bore guide. The crown of your bore is very important!

[nrubso]

Quick question. Has anyone made an electronic bore cleaner like this http://www.surplusrifle.com/reviews/copperout/index.asp
My mosins bore isn't the best and I was wondering if something like this would make it "better"

[Meat N' Taters]

I apologize if this got double posted somehow (I'm new ) but I have a question regarding barrel cleaning. I always run a brush through and then patches until they come out spotlessly clean. Is this neccessary, or should I just pass through a few solvent-soaked patches and not worry about if they come out black?

That's how I've always done it, but it sure does get to be a hassle getting barrels spotless (especially the shotguns after a long day of skeet shooting or dove hunting). If I'm doing this needlessly and just being obsessive and/or anal, let me know.

[painiac]

I apologize if this got double posted somehow (I'm new ) but I have a question regarding barrel cleaning. I always run a brush through and then patches until they come out spotlessly clean. Is this neccessary, or should I just pass through a few solvent-soaked patches and not worry about if they come out black?

That's how I've always done it, but it sure does get to be a hassle getting barrels spotless (especially the shotguns after a long day of skeet shooting or dove hunting). If I'm doing this needlessly and just being obsessive and/or anal, let me know.

You need to strike a balance between snow-white patches and dirty patches. Eventually, they come out slightly gray and you can call it "good enough", unless they'll be going into storage. You are much better off getting it only mostly clean with Break-Free CLP than you are using harsh solvents to try to get it spotless, because a harsh solvent will do more damage in the long run than a slightly dirty but well-maintained barrel. Chlorinated solvents are Bad News for guns. (The all-popular Hoppes #9 is a chlorinated solvent...)

You can plug the barrel with a clean patch and spray Break-Free CLP down it and let it soak for awhile. It won't rust this way. Just don't fire the gun without getting the Break-Free out of the barrel first! You want your barrel pretty-well dry when you fire the gun, because anything past the breech will rapidly get hot enough to carbonize.

As for shotgun barrels, honestly I don't spend much time scrubbing my Mossberg 590 barrel. For some reason they didn't chrome the barrel, so no matter how many times I brush and scrub and patch it, the patches still come out dirty. Pisses me off, I have more important things to do considering how inexpensive a new barrel is. This gun, for me, is an exception. I am otherwise fairly fastidious about maintaining my guns.

[RONSERESURPLUS]

Hello allRON L here - SERE SURPLUS


While I know the level of Cleaning and Maintenance in my Firearms, I see so many Guns and folks that SURE DON'T FEEL THE SAME? I've bought, as well as inspected and looked at so many Firearms that others have had! It's DISCUSTING WHAT MOST FOLKS PASS OFF FOR CLEAN? I see crap in all the Corners and Crevices, i see Barrels that are clean then the cylinder on Revolver types, but the action is all Gummed up and you lift the sideplate and it's like grease with all the oil and congealed crap? man, oh man! On Semi-Auto,s lift the slide off how ever ya need to to on what ever semi-auto it is and check the rails in the slide, inside the reciever of the Pistol or rifle or what ever for that reason? It's simple Fols clean it all and don't Over oil put oil on here the parts move, wipe off the excess and only clean it when it needs it, like after every time ya shoot and depending on the carry environment weekly or so if not fired? That gives ya a chance to remove all the Bullets in the mag check that mag and clean it as well, if it has a removalble bottom great, if not clean it anyhow? It's not hard on 1911A1 types and so many Modern guns have the Removable floorplate? Inspect the ammo and re-insert it in to the mag or cylinder!If more folks did this, more guns would never malfunction till parts Broke and how often is that????

I have been in wet envonments as well as deserts and other mixed weather sites? The Key is to keep the weapon clean and ready! Seems the Armed forces talk that a Lot in Basic levels of Training but later that seems to Fall off In importance? I know reserve army Folks here in WV who can barely clean an M-4 or a M-9, then Gripe how an AK always works? LOL Clean guns can and do work as well! In short, I don't have near as many as I had at one time, but know that the few I own now are clean and ready to use! The old Expression I remeber 'Fear the man with only 1 gun" as he probably knows it inside and out? Just my .02 cents and I hope the attitude towards weapons maintenance reverses itself? I see so many good Guns ruined by creatins that let it rust, seldome clean it and them Gripe that it's a 'Piece of Crap"? Doubt my Claims, Check used guns at a show or Auction or sale, they will I bet be FILTHY?



RON

[gregb]

this how to wash glocks

Hey, it does work.

Now the question is what type of dishwashing detergent do you use

[A Pimp Named Slickback]

Noob question but, I really don't go shooting often and the firearm is in good storage so how often do i clean it?

[Pondo_Sinatra]

Noob question but, I really don't go shooting often and the firearm is in good storage so how often do i clean it?

That really depends on how well the firearm has been cleaned and oiled prior to storage.

Since I'm sort of anal about stuff like this, I'd at least take a good look at each firearm once every six months and give it a wipe down with a lightly oiled rag and run a patch with a drop of oil on it through the bore before putting it back in storage.

[Dark Angel]

So, can someone recommend me a good lube and where to apply it on a 1911? I was thinking CLP but that seems a little thin to be on the rails for it. Might go with the rem lube thats the oil/carbon mix unless anyone has better ideas...

[sharpie44]

Nice info

I clean after every shooting session because i shoot a lot of black powder and use corrosive ammo a lot. Shotguns are the only exception. I might shoot them a few times before I give them a good cleaning.

The BP guns always get the hot water treatment and bore lube to protect them. It actually takes me a lot less time to clean my flint lock then any of my bolt actions.

[A Pimp Named Slickback]

Noob question but, I really don't go shooting often and the firearm is in good storage so how often do i clean it?

That really depends on how well the firearm has been cleaned and oiled prior to storage.

Since I'm sort of anal about stuff like this, I'd at least take a good look at each firearm once every six months and give it a wipe down with a lightly oiled rag and run a patch with a drop of oil on it through the bore before putting it back in storage.

i did a field strip a few months back and every now and then clean the barrel and wipe down with oil rag and basically do what you said

[painiac]

So, can someone recommend me a good lube and where to apply it on a 1911? I was thinking CLP but that seems a little thin to be on the rails for it. Might go with the rem lube thats the oil/carbon mix unless anyone has better ideas...

CLP is great stuff.
I've found that Tetra gun grease works well on pistol rails. It stays where you put it, but it's not strictly necessary.

[RONSERESURPLUS]

Hello all, RON L here again!

Yes, I was tught by my Dad and the Military kinda agreed with the idea that you need to Be carefull to clean your gun when it needs it and make sure that your helping it and not hurting it? That were the Bore guide comes in, so that your cleaning the Barrel desn't damage the crown. As well too many folks over oil or grease guns to ewhere they are dripping oil? It's easy to go nuts. I just make sure that the oil and lube I add is not excessive and whipe off the extra and thats easy.

In dryier places like in Iraq and Afganistan they are finding a lot of what used to work in places you were at doesn't work there? Like the Air Force did wit the M-16, they tested it in extreme cold and heat and saw what worked dry film lubes and graphite in cold and watch how much oil in desert enviroments. It's all a matter of where and how, I guess.

Develope a plan and a method that works best for you and your guns and I know that you will never be sorry if you clean them well.


RON

[Haji]

So, can someone recommend me a good lube and where to apply it on a 1911? I was thinking CLP but that seems a little thin to be on the rails for it. Might go with the rem lube thats the oil/carbon mix unless anyone has better ideas...

Don't use Remoil. That stuff sucks balls. CLP is OK, SLiP 2000 EWL is better.

If you have one drop of oil to put on a 1911, it goes on the barrel hood. In addition, I oil the barrel lugs, frame rails, a bit on the cartridge pick up rail, and on the barrel, especially where the barrel and bushing meet. Basically, anyplace you you see wear is where oil goes.

[Driftertank]

Sorry, I'm telling a story rather than giving advice, but since every gun I own has had at least secondary consideration as a SHTF weapon, I try to torture test all my guns to see if and when they choke. By torture test, I mean a lot of rounds through them without cleaning or fettering, followed by a thorough inspection to ensure there are no signs of excessive or dangerous wear or breakage. And my definition of a lot of ammo isn't 50 rounds. I'm happy to report that the ONLY gun that ever started to let me down was my 10/22 after about 1400 rds without so much as a barrel swabbing (Big surprise there...).

My experience has always been that careful and sparing use of good gun-oil will let the weapon carry on a lot longer than one would expect, given that it's a decent quality gun and not blatantly abused.

When I clean my weapons, I field strip them, use solvent liberally on any parts exposed to firing gasses, scrubbing with rags and patches (the corner of a heavy cotton rag, rolled into a point, will get into most areas a q-tip will, with less chance of leaving fluff behind), then wipe dry all parts. While still disassembled, I use my fingertip or a q-tip dipped lightly in oil to lubricate all bearing/sliding surfaces, then reassemble the weapon. I cycle the action several times, then disassemble again and wipe any excess oil off. My experience has been that, by cleaning this way, I can spend several days sending lead downrange at will, only wiping the gun down at the end of the day, with no risk of failure to operate.

But, admittedly, I tend to shy away from any gun with a rep for being finicky or high-maintenance. And, as I am rather highly mechanically-inclined, I have no qualms about thoroughly tearing down my guns when scrubbing time comes. I have been amazed at the number of people I see who simply dribble some oil in their gun after a shooting session then expect it to work.

Sorry. I tend to get long-winded....