Press therapy - reloading room *chat*

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Re: Press therapy - reloading room *chat*

Post by brothaman » Sat Oct 06, 2012 2:50 pm

nimdabew wrote:Anyone know where to get 147gr 9mm FMJ's? I can only find JHP's.
Have you tried Montana Gold Bullet? I've got a friend who loves their stuff. He gets a lot of 9mm bullets from them. I've never used them myself though.
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Re: Press therapy - reloading room *chat*

Post by Unobtainium » Sat Oct 06, 2012 8:38 pm

Since my last post, I've finally got a chance to sit down for an extended session. Got a new 500g bottle of my preferred AR2206H powder (exactly the same as H4895 but cheaper than the hogdon product), and cranked out some 390 rounds in just over 2 hours. Still going slow, and had to make a quick mod to attach a squeeze light to the side of the press to help me visually confirm powder in the case prior to seating, but I love the whole pull the handle, make a round nature of this. :clap:

Now I need to go buy more powder... Lots more powder....

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Re: Press therapy - reloading room *chat*

Post by MrFord » Sat Oct 06, 2012 9:37 pm

Unobtainium wrote:...Progressive = titties.
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Re: Press therapy - reloading room *chat*

Post by Ten Eight » Sat Oct 06, 2012 11:50 pm

I think Berry's has 147g tips.

ETA: https://www.berrysmfg.com/product-i1447 ... gr_RN.aspx" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Has anybody shipped PRIMED brass through USPS? Did you have to pay hazmat?
Last edited by Ten Eight on Sun Oct 07, 2012 12:08 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Press therapy - reloading room *chat*

Post by Ten Eight » Sun Oct 07, 2012 12:00 am

I felt like I should repost my two posts from another thread into this one for future reference and posterity.

Some random reloading tips that come to mind:

1. I love the Lee bushing system. I hate having to adjust the various dies every time. Obviously you always want to double check your seating die to confirm OAL. With the bushing system you can setup your depriming/resize die to the right height one time, and you don't really have to mess with it again. Same goes with your seating and crimp dies if you're not experimenting with various lengths and crimps. If you have one seating die that you will almost always use that OAL for that caliber, set it in a bushing. With pistol practice ammo I measure OAL every ten cartridges. With any pistol load that I'm trying for best accuracy or any rifle rounds I'll measure each one. For whatever OALs you try, make sure that length round chambers AND EXTRACTS in the gun you intend to use it in. I loaded some 9x19 a tad short one time and had to wait for my M&P to cool down enough and hope that the extractor could grab a hold of the cartridge to pull it out. The same goes with your crimp die. Make sure you have enough crimp so you can chamber the round. The transition from the case mouth to the bullet on a complete round should feel smoother, not like a speed bump.

So, have plenty of bushings. Spare ones are useful when you want to borrow your buddy's dies and don't want to lose your settings on the dies you have by removing the bushing:

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.45 Awesome Colt Pistol dies bushinged up and ready to go:

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2. IMHO (Just my experience, insert disclaimer here, yadda yadda) for practice ammo (my 9mm cat sneezes for example), you don't need to lube EVERY case and clean EVERY primer pocket (unless you decided in your brilliance to tumble your brass AFTER depriming them and you used a media that stuck in the holes). If you did this, a scratch awl helps pick out the media and scrape the inside. I've found this awl will work better at removing crud than my "primer pocket tool" will. I put my 200 or so 9mm cases in a container and spray them with the Hornady aerosol lube, and shake the container. Or I just put them in a box and spray them. I only fully lube rifle cases or longer pistol cases that reeeeallly get full length resized. I do this because it requires a lot less effort to yank the handle to re-size the case, and since I'm not working on a super 1337 sturdy bench I don't have shit falling over and going everywhere (cases in blocks for example). I don't clean the primer pockets of my practice ammo every time they get loaded, and I've had no malfunctions because of it. Obviously different primers, powders, or loading errors can/could leave a mess in there, so find what works for you.

I spray on the top and around the sides of the this tray, give it a shake, and add more if necessary. Spray this particular Horny A Day lube in a well ventilated area as it will give you a headache:

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Awl that scratches:

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3. When you're done tumbling brass, don't let it sit over night. Especially if you've used Brasso or an additive to spice up old media. The media gets stuck in side the cases. Same goes with that walnut or reddish color media. It stains everything.

4. Read your scale's manual. I was having problems with my Really Cool But Shitty (RCBS) scale not settling on a reading after I'd throw a charge. Obviously this isn't safe. I cracked the manual and discovered that scales are very sensitive to the environment that they are in. I had the scale on a stable surface, but it was right next to my computer monitor in a room with a fan going at a good pace. I turned off the electrical currents near the scale, and stopped air moving around the room and this fixed my problem. Also be mindful of your batteries. These can mess up readings as well. I put a sticker for last time used on the scale. This is because unless you're rich you'll find you'll be prepping brass for loading a lot more than you'll actually be loading ammo. So if you finally get around to loading ammo for that month and realize you haven't used the scale in 4 months, put a new battery in.

5. Get a variety of loading manuals, you'll find a vast amount of differences in loads. Some books like the Lyman will be more conservative in some areas, while others like Speer will be more aggressive. Also check manufacturers' websites for extensive load data.

6. You don't need to buy one of those fancy strainers for brass. Get a Homer bucket, cut out a circular piece of hardware cloth, fold a small slot in it for the media to drain out, and screw it to the inside of the bucket:

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7. You'll find yourself wanting to go shoot just so you have ammo to load.

8. If you shoot outside in the dirt, woods, etc. resign yourself to the fact that you will not recover most of your brass. Especially if you're doing drills, running around and doing cartwheels and stuff. I shoot in a concrete room, so luckily I don't lose any brass, but if I know I'll be shooting outside or whatever, and staking down a large section of tarp or cloth to keep shells out of the dirt isn't feasible, I'll either shoot aluminum/steel, or resign myself to losing most of my brass. You should attempt to police your brass outside anyways.

9. You will feel spent primers squish between your toes when you get up to use the bathroom in the middle of the night if you load in the same room you sleep. Most vacuums suck (lol) at picking them up all out of your carpet after your mammoth 600 round depriming session. (Yes your arm will be sore.)

Above all else, DO NOT TAKE THIS HOBBY LIGHTLY. DO YOUR RESEARCH. REMEMBER THAT YOU ARE MAKING THINGS THAT EXPLODE.

...So make sure you read this book:

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Last edited by Ten Eight on Sun Oct 07, 2012 12:07 am, edited 2 times in total.
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Re: Press therapy - reloading room *chat*

Post by Ten Eight » Sun Oct 07, 2012 12:02 am

More random stuff that I thought of:

1. Watch out for Berdan primed brass. They make your resizing die go pop. Just something annoying you have to stop and fix. After the first time it happened I had to use non permanent Locktite to keep the pin in the depriming die in place because it wouldn't stay locked down. If you look inside the case you'll see two small holes. Yes, there is Berdan primed brass casings out there. I've picked up lots of Berdan primed .380 ACP casings that were brass that were mixed in with Boxer primed brass. Also, I'm one of those dudes that will reload steel casings occasionally if I'm hard up for brass and the load's pressures are low, so if you go that route you'll need a certain tool. NO RELOADING ALUMINUM CASINGS.

A Berdan primed case:

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2. Be mindful of when and where you polish brass. Luckily I work mostly at night so I can polish brass during the day when most people are at work. Remember that you're running a generator sounding thing for possibly several hours and noise pisses people off, especially if you're in an apartment. If you have to run it indoors and get tired of the noise, put in some earplugs and throw your earpro on. Took me awhile to figure that out. You'd think it would be obvious but it wasn't. Also putting the tumbler on a rubber mat to reduce vibration helps. I throw my wet suit over my tumbler to cut down on noise as well.

3. Get a trickler and trickle up. Don't try to spoon powder out or re-throw a charge. Set your dispenser a bit lower and trickle up. I do this with rifle charges, and any charges that are at or very near a max loading. Remember to empty the powder out of your trickler too when you're done loading. You don't want to trickle in a different powder into the current round that you're building and potentially mix them. That could be fail :shock: .

4. Have a small cup to drain leftover powder, and a spoon to scoop up any powder that you spill (You will spill it :vmad: ). Use a spongy pad like the Glock work mat so you can smoosh the spoon under any powder you spilled and pick it up. When you mount your dispenser at a normal height the 1 pound Alliant bottles don't fit underneath to refill it. At least with my Lee this is the case. Here you can see I thought it would fit but I should've double checked and added a wood shim or two under the base of the dispenser:

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5. Buy your primer and powders locally as mentioned. Most local gun shops won't have components, only black powder components. In my area, Gander and Bass Hoe Shops can't decide whether they want to sell the stuff or not ( they change their mind twice a year it seems). I hit gun shows and haggle a bit, or go in with a group of friends on a large component order. Even if the stuff is marked up it's still probably cheaper than paying the hazamazamat online. Hazmat charges depend on quantity ordered I think but around 30-40 bucks sounds about right for whether you buy 1 or 10 pounds of powder or 1k primers or 10k so buy in bulk online. Plus at least with Midway hazmat stuff ships separate from a regular order, and on purpose takes a week or two longer to hit your bench, which is annoying.

6. Save brass of all calibers. You're only limited to how much you can save by the limit of how much you decide to pick up. You never know when a buddy might need some or can't find any (Hey bro, Dick's is sold out of 270 WSM. Let me come by and grab what you have so I can load it), or you can sell/trade with it. I once found over 100 rounds of that FN 5.7 foolishness on the floor of the place I shoot and traded it for 300 10mm casings the guy had found 3 weeks earlier. Even if you don't have the dies for that caliber go ahead and polish it, throw it in a ziplock, and label it. If you can afford it, have the dies including crimp dies for the major calibers. I don't have a .45 anymore, but I still keep the dies and process the brass as I find it. I don't own a .38, but I save and process brass for a friend of mine that doesn't have as much time to reload as he wants. I'd buy Lee Deluxe Pistol Die Sets in .380, 9mm, .40/10mm, .45, .38/.357. Maybe also some die sets in common rifle calibers like .223 and .308 if you have access to a supply of it.

7. For each caliber, have a Ziplock bag labeled with each step of the process on it. Put the respective brass in the corresponding bag. I think mine go in the order of, "Polished Only", "Deprimed/Resized", "To Be Trimmed" (As needed), "RTL" for ready to load (primed and if necessary already trimmed.). So, if you feel like just doing the loading stage, go to the "RTL" bag. If you want to just prime cases, use the "Deprimed" bag. You'll find you'll get tired of doing one step for awhile, and you'll want to do another step of the process or another caliber. This is where the bushing system Lee uses is really nice. You can go from resizing 10mm, to loading/seating 223, etc. and not miss a beat. Over time if you shoot a lot, and are lazy/poor so you only reload in spurts your "Polished Only" and "RTL" bags will be the ones that are the most full :rofl: .

You will find your Ziplock bags multiply faster than rabbits or Glocks:

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8. Find/Buy/Rent/Procure/Act as a clown and do kid parties for/ a chronograph. Seriously. If you buy one you can make your money back if you can find people to rent it out to.

9. Balance beam scales suck. You can never get them to stop moving. Make sure your surface is damn level if you try. Maybe I don't have the patience, I don't know...if I'm going to watch something that bounces up and down for 20 minutes without stopping it'll be my girlfriend. I got two of these scales free, so I have them anyway.

10. Don't drink if actively engaged in the loading process. I'll have a beer if I'm just prepping cases.

11. Don't let powder sit in your dispenser. If you do...fucking label it so you know what's in there so if you start and decide to stop and come back in two days you won't say Image what powder did I leave in there?. Because you WILL forget what type it was :vmad: :rofl: .. You'll be pissed if all you know it is a flake type powder and dammitt you have 4 types of flake powder and we all know you don't mix powders so now you just wasted money. If you leave powder in your hopper your shit gets clumpy and doesn't meter well, like when skipping Metamucil.

12. Read the front of reloading books. You learn shit, and you surprise old guys with your knowledge.

13. If thou owneth a trimmer, thou shalt also owneth clamps: I screwed mine down to a baseboard block from Home Depot.

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13. When seating bullets try to use the same force each time on the lever. If you press harder you can change the OAL. Keep batteries on hand for your calipers. Don't buy shit calipers. I don't really use an expander die.

14. To my knowledge "reloading" refers to loading brass that is 1x fired, and "hand-loading" uses virgin brass. Be careful of what type of re-packaged "once fired" brass you buy. They can be polished like a gilded turd, but look closely and there will be rust spots, etc. on the brass. I've found this mostly with Winchester branded brass at Gander Molehill.

15. Like Doc said, Rainer Ballistics are good, as well is https://www.berrysmfg.com/<- I've been ordering from them since they were TJ Conavera's or whatever. Excellent, thick plating, and sometimes they are in stock when you can't find the tips you want elsewhere.

16. Be very selective of who you let shoot your reloaded ammo, if you do at all. Explain to them and have them repeat back to you the risks inherit with shooting the ammo you loaded yourself. Make sure it chambers and extracts in their weapon. If there is any doubt that the ammo may be too much for that gun (pressure, etc.) don't use it. I only shoot reloaded ammo from personal friends of mine who I've seen how they load and with the correct level of diligence that is required to not make mistakes. I generally won't let people use my ammo unless they are familiar with what a squib feels like when it goes off, and not potentially hurt themselves if somehow there was enough force to cycle in a fresh round behind the one stuck in the barrel. I've damaged a Glock, and have seen two other guns damaged from squibs. Squibs can happen when you sit down to load a 1000 rounds of 9mm in one sitting, and your brain begins to check out of a process that by round number 534 has gotten very monotonous. If you feel this happen, either take a break or switch to performing a different step of the reloading process. Normally I can do about 400 rounds before I need to get up and take a break.

BE SMART.
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Re: Press therapy - reloading room *chat*

Post by brothaman » Sun Oct 07, 2012 11:40 am

ahhhh... got up early today, so I got caught up on the the 30-06 loading. Loaded 50 125gr green tip Noslers. Should run a little over 3100 fps. Only drops about 2 inches at 300 yds, Also formed and trimmed 100 pieces for my Argentine Mauser.
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Re: Press therapy - reloading room *chat*

Post by majorhavoc » Sun Oct 07, 2012 3:08 pm

I went shooting today, 90 rounds each of 9mm and .223. Between my own spent casings and what I found lying around, I came home with twice as much brass!

You know that expression "wood warms twice"? There must be some equivalent to shooting/reloading, but I can't come up with a pithy phrase. All I know is I get double the enjoyment when I go shooting and come home with even more brass than I left home with.

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Re: Press therapy - reloading room *chat*

Post by Ten Eight » Mon Oct 08, 2012 3:15 am

Lol but you come home with a sore back from picking them all up.

I heart my concrete floor range. Swippedy swipe with a broom, and Bob's your uncle.

Or have a friend who has a genny in his truck who shopvacs up brass when we go shoot on dirt8-).

Anybody used rice as polishing media?
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Re: Press therapy - reloading room *chat*

Post by Unobtainium » Thu Oct 11, 2012 11:15 pm

Just picked up a couple of pounds of h335 today for my .223 reloads. Anyone got any favourite recipes for h335 loads using one of the following projectiles:

55gr fmj (hdy)
55gr sp (hdy)
55gr zmax w/c
69gr smk

I'm aiming to use them for blasting/competition/training in a 14.5" 5.56 chambered AR, and an 18" wylde chambered ar. I'm all ears if anyone has any good suggestions. Otherwise, I'll be working up a whole bunch of loads to try out next time I've got a pass from the boss to hit the range.

I'm broadly happy with my h4895 loads, but h335 meters soooo much more consistently through my measure.

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Re: Press therapy - reloading room *chat*

Post by brothaman » Mon Oct 15, 2012 9:57 am

Unobtainium wrote:Just picked up a couple of pounds of h335 today for my .223 reloads. Anyone got any favourite recipes for h335 loads using one of the following projectiles:

55gr fmj (hdy)
55gr sp (hdy)
55gr zmax w/c
69gr smk

I'm aiming to use them for blasting/competition/training in a 14.5" 5.56 chambered AR, and an 18" wylde chambered ar. I'm all ears if anyone has any good suggestions. Otherwise, I'll be working up a whole bunch of loads to try out next time I've got a pass from the boss to hit the range.

I'm broadly happy with my h4895 loads, but h335 meters soooo much more consistently through my measure.
I'm loading 63gr Sierra JSPs over 24 grains of 335. Runs a fairly consistent 2850fps and groups well out of a 16 inch 1-9 twist. Anything heavier gets a bit squirrely in that rifle. Still haven't shot these in the AR. This load could stand a 1 to .5 grain bump, but they're shooting so well I hate to switch up. However,. I will try Varget or BLC2 next, as they runs a little lower pressure. I do have a pound of 4198,.. but the stick powders meter like shit out of my powder measure. It's the teats in my 444, but I also read that it rocks small capacity rifle carts, too.
Last edited by brothaman on Sun Nov 25, 2012 11:24 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Press therapy - reloading room *chat*

Post by chills1994 » Mon Oct 15, 2012 1:59 pm

Varget is a short stick powder and gets all crunchey in my Dillon powder measure.

Stick with the 335 stuff... It meters like water.

I've been using just the 55 grain Montana Golds, eventhough I do have some 69 grain SMK's. I have some Noslers too.
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Re: Press therapy - reloading room *chat*

Post by chills1994 » Mon Oct 15, 2012 2:07 pm

Ten Eight wrote:Lol but you come home with a sore back from picking them all up.

I heart my concrete floor range. Swippedy swipe with a broom, and Bob's your uncle.

Or have a friend who has a genny in his truck who shopvacs up brass when we go shoot on dirt8-).

Anybody used rice as polishing media?
A friend tried using rice. He summed it up with these two points:

1. It leaves a powdery/starchey/flour-ey like residue on the brass.

2. He added something like NuFinish 2000 car polish to the rice to try to cut down on the rice, but the rice kinda like swelled up, got kinda mushey, and wasn't like abrasive enough to clean the brass.

Now, one thing I didn't think of at the time was to tell him just to put used dryer sheets in the rice to cut down the powdery residue.

EDIT: i have plenty of corn cob and walnut media. Feed stores will sell the corn cob as animal bedding. I think I bought a 50 pound bag for like 18 dollars. There is a reptile store near me that sells crushed walnut in 50 pound bags.
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Re: Press therapy - reloading room *chat*

Post by BullOnParade » Mon Oct 15, 2012 2:23 pm

chills1994 wrote:
Ten Eight wrote:Lol but you come home with a sore back from picking them all up.

I heart my concrete floor range. Swippedy swipe with a broom, and Bob's your uncle.

Or have a friend who has a genny in his truck who shopvacs up brass when we go shoot on dirt8-).

Anybody used rice as polishing media?
A friend tried using rice. He summed it up with these two points:

1. It leaves a powdery/starchey/flour-ey like residue on the brass.

2. He added something like NuFinish 2000 car polish to the rice to try to cut down on the rice, but the rice kinda like swelled up, got kinda mushey, and wasn't like abrasive enough to clean the brass.

Now, one thing I didn't think of at the time was to tell him just to put used dryer sheets in the rice to cut down the powdery residue.

EDIT: i have plenty of corn cob and walnut media. Feed stores will sell the corn cob as animal bedding. I think I bought a 50 pound bag for like 18 dollars. There is a reptile store near me that sells crushed walnut in 50 pound bags.
I've heard of the alternate sources for corn cob and crushed walnut, but I never think of it when I'm near a pet or feed store. Maybe I will now that I've mentioned it here.
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Re: Press therapy - reloading room *chat*

Post by chills1994 » Mon Oct 15, 2012 8:27 pm

When you go to the grocery store and go to buy shelled walnuts, chances are they are made by Hammond's.

They are in southwest Missouri in a town called Stockton. They will sell crushed walnut shells by the pallet if you want that much. At one point I found their commercial/industrial side of their website where it listed the sizes of the walnut fragments. It is sometimes used like in a sandblasting type of machine to say strip paint off a car.

So if you know anybody down that way or you're going to bass pro HQ or Branson or the Ozarks, swing by Stockton for the crushed walnut shells.

What I'd like to do at least once is stop in at Sierra in Sedalia, MO one of these days, for factory seconds on bullets.
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Re: Press therapy - reloading room *chat*

Post by Unobtainium » Tue Oct 16, 2012 4:16 am

brothaman wrote: I'm loading 63gr Sierra JSPs over 24 grains of 335. Runs a fairly consistent 2850fps and groups well out of a 16 inch 1-9 twist. Anything heavier gets a bit squirrely in my that rifle. Still haven't shot these in the AR. This load could stand a 1 to .5 grain bump, but they're shooting so well I hate to switch up. However,. I will try Varget or BLC2 next, as they runs a little lower pressure. I do have a pound of 4198,.. but the stick powders meter like shit out of my powder measure. It's the teats in my 444, but I also read that it rocks small capacity rifle carts, too.
If you wanted to run a stick powder like varget or h4895, of all things, the lee perfect powder measure is a good (and cheap) thing to have. They seem to meter stick powders better than a lot of other measures.

If I'm loading on my single stage, the lee measure will consistently throw stick powders within .1 or .2 gr, but the majority will be spot on with only a few out by a smidgeon. I run varget and h4895 for my .303 and .308 loads, and also for my early .223 loads.

It doesn't unfortunately work for running bulk loads in a progressive, hence my search for a better metering ball powder.

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Re: Press therapy - reloading room *chat*

Post by brothaman » Tue Oct 16, 2012 9:24 am

I didn't realize that Varget was a stick powder. That's a bitch. Also, I've had issues with stick powders not getting full burn without BR primers. My 444 and my 357 max is like that. Maybe just an issue with straight walled carts.

I was actually leaning more toward BLC2 anyway (ball powder). I'm also looking to use this in my '06 loads and my Arg Mauser loads to keep the pressure down. On paper It looks pretty good for 223, too. We'll see.
Last edited by brothaman on Fri Oct 19, 2012 9:23 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Press therapy - reloading room *chat*

Post by PistolPete » Tue Oct 16, 2012 9:59 am

Unobtainium wrote: If you wanted to run a stick powder like varget or h4895, of all things, the lee perfect powder measure is a good (and cheap) thing to have. They seem to meter stick powders better than a lot of other measures.

If I'm loading on my single stage, the lee measure will consistently throw stick powders within .1 or .2 gr, but the majority will be spot on with only a few out by a smidgeon. I run varget and h4895 for my .303 and .308 loads, and also for my early .223 loads.

It doesn't unfortunately work for running bulk loads in a progressive, hence my search for a better metering ball powder.
I've found this to be true as well. I've run a few pounds of Varget through a Lee powder measure with good results. Benchmark doesn't seem to meter as well for me though out of the Lee.
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Re: Press therapy - reloading room *chat*

Post by cemoulton » Tue Oct 16, 2012 11:46 pm

PistolPete wrote:
Unobtainium wrote: If you wanted to run a stick powder like varget or h4895, of all things, the lee perfect powder measure is a good (and cheap) thing to have. They seem to meter stick powders better than a lot of other measures.

If I'm loading on my single stage, the lee measure will consistently throw stick powders within .1 or .2 gr, but the majority will be spot on with only a few out by a smidgeon. I run varget and h4895 for my .303 and .308 loads, and also for my early .223 loads.

It doesn't unfortunately work for running bulk loads in a progressive, hence my search for a better metering ball powder.
I've found this to be true as well. I've run a few pounds of Varget through a Lee powder measure with good results. Benchmark doesn't seem to meter as well for me though out of the Lee.

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Re: Press therapy - reloading room *chat*

Post by PistolPete » Wed Oct 17, 2012 9:37 am

cemoulton wrote: BLC-2
I've been meaning to pick up some of that anyway. Thanks for the recommendation.
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Re: Press therapy - reloading room *chat*

Post by Ten Eight » Thu Oct 18, 2012 1:01 am

Sitting here loading 6.4gangsters of Power Pistol underneath 124gangster FMJ flat point 9mm bullets. Almost at number 600 for this session! :clap:

I've never used Power Pistol, but I like it already and I haven't shot it yet....it meters soooo well. Probably the smoothest metering powder I've used.

Hopefully these will chrono around 1100 fps.
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Re: Press therapy - reloading room *chat*

Post by imrcly » Thu Oct 18, 2012 10:12 am

Does anyone have a prefered chrono?
I always just load several small batches in a range of loads in the safe area and then shoot to test for accuracy, so I have no clue how fast anything is going.
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Re: Press therapy - reloading room *chat*

Post by Keith B » Thu Oct 18, 2012 11:01 am

brothaman wrote:I didn't realize that Varget was a stick powder. That's a bitch. Also, I've had issues with stick powders not getting full burn without BR primers. My 444 and my 357 max is like that. Maybe just an issue with straight walled carts.

I was actually leaning more toward BCL2 anyway (ball powder). I'm also looking to use this in my '06 loads and my Arg Mauser loads to keep the pressure down. On paper It looks pretty good for 223, too. We'll see.
The best powder I found for the 357 max is AA1680, great velocity out of the pistol, shoots very well out of the carbine with 180gr Hornaday SSP bullet.
Ten Eight wrote:Sitting here loading 6.4gangsters of Power Pistol underneath 124gangster FMJ flat point 9mm bullets. Almost at number 600 for this session! :clap:

I've never used Power Pistol, but I like it already and I haven't shot it yet....it meters soooo well. Probably the smoothest metering powder I've used.

Hopefully these will chrono around 1100 fps.
I never liked the recoil impulse of power pistol, it's very snappy out of a 40. My powder of choice for hot loads is Winchester Autocmp.
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Re: Press therapy - reloading room *chat*

Post by brothaman » Fri Oct 19, 2012 9:25 am

sigboy40 wrote: The best powder I found for the 357 max is AA1680, great velocity out of the pistol, shoots very well out of the carbine with 180gr Hornaday SSP bullet.
My Local GS never has 1680 in stock. I've had some on order for a long time. I'm getting good results with Win 296.

You loading BR primers in your Max? What are you loading besides the those 180 SSPs? Also, what are you shooting? Barrel length and twist? What velocity and accuracy are you getting out of the 180 SSPs? I just bought a box of 180s and have yet to load any. Sorry to beat you down with questions,.. but getting shit right with my 357 max loads is always a bitch for me. I've developed 1 good load so for with 125gr JSPs and that took forever.
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