Gun oil?

[GunnerMax]

Due to the military, I love CLP

My motto when oiling the M2HB and M240 is this "you can never have too much CLP"

I dont give a shit about having a harder time to clean. I know the gun will work when its drenched in the stuff.

My glock and Maverick is liberally lubed.

I have, however, bought bore foam, and 3 different types of Hoppe's for testing. I also am going to get a couple quarts of Mobil-1 for storage lubricant (in the back of the shed)

[Kafir]

I'm a fan of a light coat of grease instead of oil in any warm, especially hot climates. It doesn't dry out and it stays where you put it. Grease is great for guns that like heavy oil as it doesn't wind up dripping out of the gun or spray back or out of the gun. No need to get too heavy with it. A light coating is all that's needed. For guns that are carried a lot and shot very little, the grease will still be there months after it is applied.

For cooler climates where the thicker viscosity of the grease can cause problems, cutting it with some oil may be necessary. For very cold climates oil may be the only route, but then, you likely aren't dealing with the oil drying out in those environments in the first place. And depending on how cold it does get, something that has a low freeze point is important as a firing pin frozen in its channel is no bueno.

So when it comes to a straight up oil, or where grease is verboten, FP10 has been my oil of choice. I know others have spoken of various motor oils, which may be fine, just make sure they don't freeze up in places like the firing pin channel. A freezer and a pencil test may be in order.

[GunnerMax]

What is this pencil test you talk about?

And please elaborate more about the freezer test. I can understand the gist of it by name alone. Thank you

[squinty]

What is this pencil test you talk about?

And please elaborate more about the freezer test. I can understand the gist of it by name alone. Thank you

Making triple sure the firearm is unloaded, point it straight up, cocked, with a pencil resting inside the barrel, and pull the trigger. The firing pin should knock the pencil upward pretty smartly. If it doesn't, there's a problem - and one possible problem would be gunk in the firing pin channel. I'm assuming the "freezer" part would be to see if your oil get's to viscous in the cold - ie, oil the pistol up, chill it down, and see if it still passes the pencil test while cold, or if low temps made the oil thick enough to slow or impeded the firing pin. My solution has always been to refrain from putting any kind of lube in the firing pin channel.

[CharlieMike]

I clean with clp and lube with a mixture of 1:1 lithium based grease and clp placed on the metal to metal contact points. I also use mil-tech 1 for all metal parts. I have had outstanding results with the grease mixture on all of my personal firearms. It also works wonders for 249s and 240s firing blanks.

[Roguebama]

So does anyone have experience with using "FrogLube" for a extended period of time?

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

[Dave_M]

So does anyone have experience with using "FrogLube" for a extended period of time?

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

I'm sure Froglube will be fine. It's the current, 'best lube evaaaa' and has been around for several years. More important than the brand of lube is actually using lubrication (of some kind) properly.

[cemoulton]

I've been using Brownells friction defense for awhile now. Currently torturing my DDM4V1 over 6k with no cleaning. I just put a couple of drops in the little "oil" holes on the bolt and cycle the action a few times anytime I head out to go shoot. No problems yet.

[vawilderness]

I've just started running white lithium, high temperature wheel-bearing grease is several of my weapons... giving it a try in a Glock 17 Gen 4 and an Rock River M4 type rifle. I haven't yet found any significant difference from the liquid lubes I have used in the past (which is a good thing I think). It seems to stay where I put it a little more reliably than oils (as indicated in many reviews and commentaries) possibly making it a better choice. Its also REALLY CHEAP making it easy to stock up!

Edited: Glock 14 was a typo

[doc66]

Whatever I put in my car.

Motorcycle.

[jeepinbandtrider]

What Doc said. Whatever I have laying around in an open oil container in the garage. Depends on if the last oil change I did was on the car or one of the bikes.


Sent from my iPhone

[ShoelessJoe]

I use rem oil for just about everything I have, no problems.

[UndeadInfidel]

I've just started running white lithium, high temperature wheel-bearing grease is several of my weapons... giving it a try in a Glock 17 Gen 4 and an Rock River M4 type rifle. I haven't yet found any significant difference from the liquid lubes I have used in the past (which is a good thing I think). It seems to stay where I put it a little more reliably than oils (as indicated in many reviews and commentaries) possibly making it a better choice. Its also REALLY CHEAP making it easy to stock up!

Edited: Glock 14 was a typo

I just started running white lithium on my pistol as well, since I have a suppressor with a nielsen device that requires it not to lock up.

Other than that, I have a gallon jug of CLP that still gets the most use.

[northernxposure]

Just changed the gear lube in the robot - so now I've got another 6 gallons of crazy expensive lube just hanging out. CT's due next month so I'll have another few spares of grease shortly.

NXP

[sworbeyegib]

I used remoil for a long time, now my remoil see more use in keeping my blades oiled though. Also used hoppes 9, since I had a few bottles lieing around from various gun cleaning kits. Switched over to clp and thats been working great.

Recently my dads been telling me about the wonders of Ballistol. He used it to clean up a really old 16 gauge sxs his stepdad had given in that was in really rough shape. I picked up a big can at the last gun show I was at for really cheap. So far so good, I just havent really put it thru the ringer enough yet to say its that much better than what I was using. I do like the fact its multi purpose, works with wood and leather too. The guy selling it says it works as a mild antiseptic too, but I wont be trying that out any time soon.

[AKFTW]

White Lithium Grease for lubrication, Hoppes Elite (M-Pro 7) for cleaning, and Hoppes Oil for rust prevention when the metal starts looking really dry.

[Buck]

Whatever I put in my car.

Motorcycle.

LOL> I have used Harley Oil on my 1911. I think its about a 20/50. It worked just fine.
I don't know what the deal is about WD-40. I use it all the time as a cleaner and leave a liberal wet coating for storage on all the all my guns that don't go out to play as often. On my AR and pistols as well. I live in a very humid climate, WD stands for water displacing. I've been doing that for years with no issues. I also usually wipe any excess off on the weapons down before I fire them. I usually use a few drops of CLP on wear areas, or whatever lube is on hand. (Thats how the Harley oil got into the mix, it was in the truck at the time.) I've also got a stash of old gun grease, probably WWII area, in little tiny canisters.
Any weapon that had been in storage for an extended period of time, like an earlier posters beloved Maverick, would ideally get a thorough detailed teardown and inspection before going to the range anyway, followed by a function test before firing and a range test before being relied upon. I used to try all the latest whis-bang goodies, but I never noted any problems or advantages. The price can become a negative factor. WD-40 is cheap. Motor oil is cheaper yet, unless you buy it from the Harley botique. I have the natural Marine Corps affinity for CLP, the smell brings back so many fond memories... But I'll try anything once.

[Rogue45]

I have the natural Marine Corps affinity for CLP, the smell brings back so many fond memories...

This... I was using Hoppes and Remoil for quite a few years, but recently bought some CLP strictly for nostalgia.

[AK47Heaven]

White Lithium Grease for lubrication, Hoppes Elite (M-Pro 7) for cleaning, and Hoppes Oil for rust prevention when the metal starts looking really dry.

Are you using the M-Pro 7 Gun Oil LPX? I love that shit. Works a lot better for me than Remoil and CLP, although I use all 3 and Hoppes Elite (not M-Pro) as well.

[400 Grains]

So does anyone have experience with using "FrogLube" for a extended period of time?

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

I'm sure Froglube will be fine. It's the current, 'best lube evaaaa' and has been around for several years. More important than the brand of lube is actually using lubrication (of some kind) properly.

I bought a bunch of it based on friends recommendations, and the fact that it's safer and smells good. While it seems to be great for lube, I've seen a little info around suggesting that it may not be a good protectant/anti-rust product. I haven't tried any testing yet, but I'm going to keep lubing up my steel guns with other stuff until I get the straight scoop. I tend to be pretty hard on my guns, and I spend a lot of time out in the elements, so rust prevention is important to me.

[Roguebama]

So does anyone have experience with using "FrogLube" for a extended period of time?

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

I'm sure Froglube will be fine. It's the current, 'best lube evaaaa' and has been around for several years. More important than the brand of lube is actually using lubrication (of some kind) properly.

Thanks Dave. I agree that "Proper" lubrication is the most important part. I really like the so called "biodegradable" part of "froglube." I placed a order for some today, I'll let everyone know how it works. Thanks again

[Roguebama]

Remoil sucks. Its probably the worst "gun oil" there is. Get your AK some decent lube and it'll like you a lot more than it already does.

Hey Haji, Can you explain why "Remoil" sucks? I've used it many times with no bad luck, but if there is something I need to know that makes it a bad choice, then I'll change to a different type of lube. Thanks

[Doctorr Fabulous]

Remoil sucks. Its probably the worst "gun oil" there is. Get your AK some decent lube and it'll like you a lot more than it already does.

Hey Haji, Can you explain why "Remoil" sucks? I've used it many times with no bad luck, but if there is something I need to know that makes it a bad choice, then I'll change to a different type of lube. Thanks

It seems to get gummy, IMLE.

How long does it take/under what conditions does froglube degrade?

[Roguebama]

Remoil sucks. Its probably the worst "gun oil" there is. Get your AK some decent lube and it'll like you a lot more than it already does.

Hey Haji, Can you explain why "Remoil" sucks? I've used it many times with no bad luck, but if there is something I need to know that makes it a bad choice, then I'll change to a different type of lube. Thanks

It seems to get gummy, IMLE.

How long does it take/under what conditions does froglube degrade?

That is a definite drawback if it gets gummy. That could be why I have a small amount of trouble with my Benelli During Duck and Goose season. I'll discontinue the remoil for awhile and see if the problem goes away.
I'm not sure about the Froglube. It will be nice to see how long it lasts. They say to apply it the same as you would Militec. Warm up the gun parts with a heat gun so that the steel's pore's open up and then apply the lube. Supposedly it will "condition" the steel to be more corrosive resistant. That would be nice but I'm sure it will come down to good maintenance and cleaning with the froglube as well.