Paint a gun?

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sirwalcottthe3rd
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Paint a gun?

Post by sirwalcottthe3rd » Tue Sep 18, 2007 10:52 pm

i figure if they figured out how to put coffee cans on exhuast,why not have a neon green m16? i dont want to go as far as neon green but it may be cool to add a little color to the shotgun.anyone know anything about this,i looked it up and couldnt find anything(im talking about the metal not the synthetics,those will be easy enough to find paint for. it will have to be a heat resistent paint for metal i know that much but finding it is the bigger fish.
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Duracoat.

Post by Williams » Tue Sep 18, 2007 11:10 pm

http://www.google.com/search?q=duracoat

I hear great things about Duracoat by Lauer Custom Weaponry.

http://www.surplusrifle.com/reviews2005 ... /index.asp shows some guy painting up his CZ 52.

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Post by sirwalcottthe3rd » Wed Sep 19, 2007 12:07 am

thank you very much.i was watching some turkey hunting today and they were using the new benelli and it had duracoat but i didnt remeber that until after you said duracoat so thank you again.ill post before and afters when im done
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Post by Dave_M » Wed Sep 19, 2007 9:32 am

Alumahyde II works well, as does gunkote. Both of those come in a rattle can too.
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Post by sirwalcottthe3rd » Wed Sep 19, 2007 10:41 am

yeah im not looking forward to buying an airbrush, but maybe ill need it again for somthing else who knows, always another gun to paint i guess.
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Post by Donny_Cash » Wed Sep 19, 2007 11:13 am

If you decide to pick up a airbrush shoot me a PM, I can give you a little info on different models/brands.

I here duracoat is great stuff for painting guns, but there are a few things that bug me about it. Dura Coat is an enamel based product, which is an outdated paint system esp. for doing custom work; because of the slow dry time. The only area enamel is used is the fleet industry(in which I work now) and we hardly use it anymore. The other thing that bothers me is the price, the kits do seem cheap enough, but if you look at how much paint you actually get; it is pretty spendy.

You should look into Urethane based product, they are tough like enamel. Chip resistant and chemical proof like enamel, but a faster dry time. If you really want a truely tuff finish, epoxy is the way to go. When I actually get aroun to paint any of my guns, I will probably be using PPG's DP series of epoxy primer sealers.

What ever route you plan on going, I would advise you get a two part paint system. The paint is one part and the second part is the catalyst(hardener).

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Post by Obiwan » Wed Sep 19, 2007 4:02 pm

I have used AlumahydeII with good success

It is nice because it does not need high-heat curing so you can do polymer parts as well as metal

On good clean surfaces it holds up pretty well....and if it does get worn you can redo it...

And I don't see my weapons as art forms anyway....doings add character

My AR's are painted neutral colors...which helps keep them cool up here in the land of the hot....hot...sun

Black rifles get real hot....even when they are not being shot

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Post by sirwalcottthe3rd » Wed Sep 19, 2007 4:12 pm

the duracoat said its great for keeping salt off of my gun,do these other products do the same?i live near the beach so rust is an issue.and are they all as easy as duracoat claims to be?
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Post by crypto » Wed Sep 19, 2007 4:13 pm

sirwalcottthe3rd wrote:yeah im not looking forward to buying an airbrush, but maybe ill need it again for somthing else who knows, always another gun to paint i guess.
Unless you're going to be airbrushing pictures of jukeboxes or Vargas pinup girls on your gun, you dont need a fancy double-action Badger or Pasche brush.

Just a simple single-action siphon-fed will be perfectly fine, and they're like $30.

The key is to use thin multiple coats, and not just slather on a shitload at once.
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Post by sirwalcottthe3rd » Wed Sep 19, 2007 4:16 pm

i have experience painting walls with a paint sprayer but ive never painted metal.how long should i let it sit before a second coat?
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Post by zXzGrifterzXz » Wed Sep 19, 2007 7:32 pm

I know guys who paint their weapon with the same rattle cans I painted my truck with. Its cheap and it looks good. I plan to do the same thing to my AR when I get some spare time this or next weekend.
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Post by Ding » Wed Sep 19, 2007 9:39 pm

gun-kote works great and will not come off..

http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ ... 02&s=44029

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Yay.

Post by Williams » Tue Nov 06, 2007 10:26 pm

http://www.surplusrifle.com/reviews2006 ... /index.asp has some fellow duracoat-ing his SKS and Mosin Nagant m44. It also includes 49 video of the fellow doing it.

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Post by Illeagle » Tue Nov 06, 2007 10:38 pm

Hey you can get neon green stocks for your AR. Just mix in some neon orange and yellow parts and you'll have perfectly urban camo'd rifle. People will just thinks it's a supersoaker. :lol:
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Post by CommonHighrise » Tue Nov 06, 2007 10:39 pm

One-Shot enamel paints. When used with a good sable brush, its hands down the best crap out there. Just be prepared to pay out the butt, last I checked it was about $12 for a 1/2 pint.

For just quick rattle-canning, get a primer made for galvanized steel. Itll help it stick like no tomorrow. Best 'cheapo' paint to use on it would be either the grill flat black, or any of the colors they sell at auto parts stores for brake/exhaust parts.

However, if you want to add a splash of color with class to your wood-stocked guns, shop around your local hardware stores for colored stains. They work like regular stains, but have subdued pigments added, like oranges, greens, and blues.
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Post by mr.trooper » Tue Nov 06, 2007 11:01 pm

Outdoor Krylon works just fine. i painted my AK in OD green with it and it hasn't flaked or anything yet, even after several range trips.

just make sure you use multiple light coating instead of one heavy one, and give it plenty of time to dry.
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Post by Donny_Cash » Wed Nov 07, 2007 12:32 am

CommonHighrise wrote:One-Shot enamel paints. When used with a good sable brush, its hands down the best crap out there. Just be prepared to pay out the butt, last I checked it was about $12 for a 1/2 pint.
One shot has stayed the same price as when I started using it 10 years ago, I consider it dirt cheap as far as quality paints go. One Shot lettering enamel has to be one of the most versatile paints out there, it sticks to anything. It's an oil based alkyd enamel, this paint system has been out around a century. It is designed for sign painting/ hand lettering and pinstriping. Can be thinned with mineral sprits, turpentine for spraying and clean up. Best used with natural hair brushes.

Great as One shot is, I would not considering using it to paint a firearm. You want a type of paint that "cures", not on that dries. Remember One shot is oil based, it won't stand up to cleaning solvents and gun oil. One Shot is extremely slow drying, it is made this way so brush strokes flow out. As far as I know, One Shot doesn't have any flat paints.

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Post by muscleman_coffeemesto » Wed Nov 07, 2007 11:43 am

Paint your gun like this.
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Post by JeffTheHunter » Wed Nov 07, 2007 1:02 pm

Bowflage works pretty well. The guys at arf.com have tons of pictures. I've sent a few to ArizonaResponseServices.com to have his proprietary metal coloring done on the outside.
METACOL™ is an acronym for METAL COLOR and covers a proprietary line of beautiful protective coatings specifically engineered for the unique requirements of the firearm industry. METACOL™ is a process, not merely a product, which is why ARS does not offer our finishes for home-application. ARS constantly strives to improve not only the protective quality of the product, but also the efficiency and integrity of the process. Surface preparation is the step that has the greatest impact on the final results. Regardless of the product quality, sloppy surface prep will not yield satisfactory results. Our careful and meticulous surface preparation is one of the factors that sustains ARS as the industry leader in firearms coatings.

For all coatings, we completely disassemble the firearm and strip to bare metal. We can mitigate minor scratches and dings at no charge. More significant blemishes require inspection for a quote We coat all parts except for the smallest pins and springs. We will highlight lettering upon request, providing the engraving is deep enough to hold the paint. Please visit the Firearm Finishes Photo Gallery for examples of our fine firearm restoration and refinishing services.
Colors, adds lubricity, never chips or fades. As you'd guess, it's not free.

Pictures from their website

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Here's where it gets cool :) Camouflage, never wears off, never dulls, harder to scratch than the guns standard finish, adds lubricity. Its just awesome.

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Fantastic product. I've got a P229 in the urban color, the same as the Uzi in the last pic. The mags were all done in flat black. I love the way that this finish feels, no failures to operate since I got it back. I also had him perform his "SIG Advanced Tactical Package", minus the dehorning.

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Post by Napalm{WmD} » Wed Nov 07, 2007 1:14 pm

Most automotive paint is okay to about 200 degres. Shoot you gun then read the temps on the parts you want to paint. Any thing close to 300 probly won't stick.
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Post by ShipWreck » Mon Nov 12, 2007 2:34 pm

This is one of my fav paint jobs on a gun...

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Post by Cooter » Mon Nov 12, 2007 5:39 pm

Duracoating a firearm is great for protective value, plus they have some really awsome patterns out there. I've got a custom AR duracoated in a desert tiger stripe (sort of like british desert) that looks pretty good, i'll post pictures later. Really ups the cool factor of the rifle.
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Post by waterborne » Mon Nov 12, 2007 6:03 pm

If your're doing something fancy (ghey) then an airbrush is fine, but if it is a real working gun some ultra-flat camo krylon will work fine. Image[/img]]
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Excess Duracoat

Post by Williams » Mon Nov 19, 2007 6:20 pm

I ordered too much Duracoat just so I would qualify for cheaper shippping, so if anyone would want to trade some HK Blue/Grey 4 oz plus associated hardener and whatever else they ship with it, I'm game. I'd love to have some parkerizing chemicals or like suchlike.

This stuff is brand new, so new it's still in the mail and on the way to my house.

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