Firearms CHAT: [2020 - Year of the Squib]

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Re: Firearms CHAT: [insert chat title here]

Post by 12_Gauge_Chimp » Fri Oct 30, 2020 7:59 pm

Well, that was quick.

They only announced pulling ammo and guns maybe a couple days ago, didn't they ?

I went to the local Walmart and there was no ammo in the locked case, but there was plenty of shotgun shells on the shelves.

Which made no sense. Because if they pulled the other ammo and put it in a safer place, why not the shotgun shells out in the open as well ?

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Re: Firearms CHAT: [insert chat title here]

Post by Langenator » Fri Oct 30, 2020 8:22 pm

MPMalloy wrote:
Fri Oct 30, 2020 11:02 am
From NPR: Walmart Yanks Guns Off Shelves Citing Rising Tensions

Yeah, this is * being responsible, at least on the surface. I find a bit of an odor...not able to articulate more, atm.
Have looters been going after guns? Seems to me it would be more helpful to pull the TVs and alcohol off the shelves.
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Re: Firearms CHAT: [insert chat title here]

Post by Phil » Fri Oct 30, 2020 8:27 pm

Langenator wrote:
Fri Oct 30, 2020 8:22 pm
MPMalloy wrote:
Fri Oct 30, 2020 11:02 am
From NPR: Walmart Yanks Guns Off Shelves Citing Rising Tensions

Yeah, this is * being responsible, at least on the surface. I find a bit of an odor...not able to articulate more, atm.
Have looters been going after guns? Seems to me it would be more helpful to pull the TVs and alcohol off the shelves.
To have a full store's worth of TVs and alcohol is just a retail loss. The loss of one firearm would put the store at a much higher legal risk.
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Re: Firearms CHAT: [insert chat title here]

Post by MPMalloy » Fri Oct 30, 2020 8:30 pm

Langenator wrote:
Fri Oct 30, 2020 8:22 pm
MPMalloy wrote:
Fri Oct 30, 2020 11:02 am
From NPR: Walmart Yanks Guns Off Shelves Citing Rising Tensions Yeah, this is * being responsible, at least on the surface. I find a bit of an odor...not able to articulate more, atm.
Have looters been going after guns? Seems to me it would be more helpful to pull the TVs and alcohol off the shelves.
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Re: Firearms CHAT: [insert chat title here]

Post by 12_Gauge_Chimp » Mon Nov 02, 2020 6:10 pm

Got my Midway USA order in today, two days ahead of schedule. Which seems to be how it goes whenever I order from Midway.

Anyway, I got my Geissele Super 42 buffer spring and H1 buffer and my AR Stoner 9mm A2 style muzzle brake and got them installed on the rifles they were intended for.

Only issue is the muzzle brake for my PC9 is kind of a bitch to time correctly. So I picked up a crush washer for it, but that thing is next to useless. Ended up putting the little rubber O-ring that came with my PC9 back on and that got the muzzle brake timed right.

As an added measure to make sure it stays tight, I put a little blue LocTite on the threads and torqued it down as much as I could and still have it timed properly.

If it manages to come loose after firing after this, I'll take my PC9 to my gunsmith and have him install it and time it to make sure it'll stay in place.

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Re: Firearms CHAT: [insert chat title here]

Post by NT2C » Mon Nov 02, 2020 8:03 pm

12_Gauge_Chimp wrote:
Mon Nov 02, 2020 6:10 pm
Only issue is the muzzle brake for my PC9 is kind of a bitch to time correctly. So I picked up a crush washer for it, but that thing is next to useless. Ended up putting the little rubber O-ring that came with my PC9 back on and that got the muzzle brake timed right.

As an added measure to make sure it stays tight, I put a little blue LocTite on the threads and torqued it down as much as I could and still have it timed properly.

If it manages to come loose after firing after this, I'll take my PC9 to my gunsmith and have him install it and time it to make sure it'll stay in place.
You had a similar experience to mine with the same brake/hider on my PC9. Even with a crush washer I couldn't get it to quite index so mine is a few degrees "off" from perfect. it still serves its purpose and isn't off by enough to take it to a local gunsmith.
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Re: Firearms CHAT: [insert chat title here]

Post by 12_Gauge_Chimp » Mon Nov 02, 2020 8:22 pm

NT2C wrote:
Mon Nov 02, 2020 8:03 pm
12_Gauge_Chimp wrote:
Mon Nov 02, 2020 6:10 pm
Only issue is the muzzle brake for my PC9 is kind of a bitch to time correctly. So I picked up a crush washer for it, but that thing is next to useless. Ended up putting the little rubber O-ring that came with my PC9 back on and that got the muzzle brake timed right.

As an added measure to make sure it stays tight, I put a little blue LocTite on the threads and torqued it down as much as I could and still have it timed properly.

If it manages to come loose after firing after this, I'll take my PC9 to my gunsmith and have him install it and time it to make sure it'll stay in place.
You had a similar experience to mine with the same brake/hider on my PC9. Even with a crush washer I couldn't get it to quite index so mine is a few degrees "off" from perfect. it still serves its purpose and isn't off by enough to take it to a local gunsmith.
I actually was going to ask if you had any issues with the muzzle brake on your PC9.

For me it's more of an aesthetic thing than a function thing. The LocTite is sort of an insurance that the brake won't come loose during firing. It also helps me index my muzzle brake and keep it there.

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Re: Firearms CHAT: [insert chat title here]

Post by PistolPete » Mon Nov 02, 2020 11:55 pm

12_Gauge_Chimp wrote:
Mon Nov 02, 2020 6:10 pm
Only issue is the muzzle brake for my PC9 is kind of a bitch to time correctly. So I picked up a crush washer for it, but that thing is next to useless. Ended up putting the little rubber O-ring that came with my PC9 back on and that got the muzzle brake timed right.
Midway continues to be on the ball, despite the panic driving more sales than normal.

And what you need is this- it's a pack of timing washers of varying thicknesses. If you buy a Surefire product it has a chart about which ones to use based on how many degrees off you are, but a little trial and error doesn't take long. Beware though, do not use the Rockset if you ever plan to take off the muzzle device. For most purposes, normal style locktite will work fine.
https://www.primaryarms.com/surefire-mu ... m-kit-5.56
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Re: Firearms CHAT: [insert chat title here]

Post by 12_Gauge_Chimp » Tue Nov 03, 2020 10:09 am

PistolPete wrote:
Mon Nov 02, 2020 11:55 pm
12_Gauge_Chimp wrote:
Mon Nov 02, 2020 6:10 pm
Only issue is the muzzle brake for my PC9 is kind of a bitch to time correctly. So I picked up a crush washer for it, but that thing is next to useless. Ended up putting the little rubber O-ring that came with my PC9 back on and that got the muzzle brake timed right.
Midway continues to be on the ball, despite the panic driving more sales than normal.

And what you need is this- it's a pack of timing washers of varying thicknesses. If you buy a Surefire product it has a chart about which ones to use based on how many degrees off you are, but a little trial and error doesn't take long. Beware though, do not use the Rockset if you ever plan to take off the muzzle device. For most purposes, normal style locktite will work fine.
https://www.primaryarms.com/surefire-mu ... m-kit-5.56
No worries on using Rockset here, all I've got is just regular blue LocTite.

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Re: Firearms CHAT: [insert chat title here]

Post by PistolPete » Tue Nov 03, 2020 11:30 am

12_Gauge_Chimp wrote:
Tue Nov 03, 2020 10:09 am
No worries on using Rockset here, all I've got is just regular blue LocTite.
Right, but that shim kit comes with a little tube of Rockset. It can be a lot of trouble to remove later on.
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Re: Firearms CHAT: [insert chat title here]

Post by 12_Gauge_Chimp » Tue Nov 03, 2020 12:00 pm

PistolPete wrote:
Tue Nov 03, 2020 11:30 am
12_Gauge_Chimp wrote:
Tue Nov 03, 2020 10:09 am
No worries on using Rockset here, all I've got is just regular blue LocTite.
Right, but that shim kit comes with a little tube of Rockset. It can be a lot of trouble to remove later on.
Oh, ok. I didn't know the shim kit came with it. The blue LocTite and rubber factory O-ring seem to be holding just fine, but I'll probably pick one of those up just in case.

I've heard that Rockset is water soluble and can be removed by soaking whatever part it's on in water, but also that it requires a lot of heat like red LocTite to remove. So I'm getting varying opinions on how to remove it.

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Re: Firearms CHAT: [insert chat title here]

Post by 91Eunozs » Tue Nov 03, 2020 4:50 pm

PistolPete wrote:
Tue Nov 03, 2020 11:30 am
12_Gauge_Chimp wrote:
Tue Nov 03, 2020 10:09 am
No worries on using Rockset here, all I've got is just regular blue LocTite.
Right, but that shim kit comes with a little tube of Rockset. It can be a lot of trouble to remove later on.
Fun fact: Rocksett is water soluble. I just put the end of the barrel in a bucket or large cup of water overnight when I need to remove a muzzle device. Clean thoroughly afterwards of course.
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Re: Firearms CHAT: [insert chat title here]

Post by RickOShea » Thu Nov 05, 2020 2:42 pm

Sounds like the gun company Full Conceal has filed for bankruptcy.....I guess you could say they "folded"? :clownshoes:



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Re: Firearms CHAT: [insert chat title here]

Post by MacWa77ace » Fri Nov 06, 2020 11:43 am

91Eunozs wrote:
Tue Nov 03, 2020 4:50 pm
PistolPete wrote:
Tue Nov 03, 2020 11:30 am
12_Gauge_Chimp wrote:
Tue Nov 03, 2020 10:09 am
No worries on using Rockset here, all I've got is just regular blue LocTite.
Right, but that shim kit comes with a little tube of Rockset. It can be a lot of trouble to remove later on.
Fun fact: Rocksett is water soluble. I just put the end of the barrel in a bucket or large cup of water overnight when I need to remove a muzzle device. Clean thoroughly afterwards of course.
Good to know, I have used rocksett on certain items not gun related and haven't had to remove them so don't have practical experience. Some things you can't submerge in water, can you just keep wetting it?

Other than certain scope mounts/rings, I belong to the school of no thread locker on gun parts. I had to use blue on an RMR mount on a dual site ACOG because when it was installed someone used blue and the cap head bolt broke off when I tried to remove it, leaving enough shaft for me to grip with pliers to get it out but it pulled some thread out of the ACOG so the same sized bolt wouldn't hold fast. Not wanting to tap it, I just got a different thread bolt, threaded it in and used blue. It worked but what a pain.



DATA DUMP:
Rocksett by Flexbar has a Temperature rating up to 1,500 degrees Fahrenheit which far exceeds that of Red or Blue Loctite.

It's the Industry Standard for Muzzle Brake Applications due to the temp rating and removable strength rating similar to Blue Loctite.

It's far superior to Red or Blue Loctite due to the massive 1,500 degree temperature rating, which is 3 times that of Loctite.

Instructions for Using Rocksett:

Rocksett is a ceramic cement (not a contact cement). You have plenty of working time. Ready to use as is (no mixing). Low Shrinkage.
It is best to have component parts bone dry. Use rubbing alcohol to remove any lubricants from parts.
Bonding of parts can be made without the use of heat. However for best results the joined parts should be heated to 175 degrees Fahrenheit for approximately 15 minutes. Use a hair dryer or a similar heat source that won't damage finish of parts.
Rocksett tensile strength is approximately 250 pounds per square inch. The shear strength is 450 pounds per square inch, more than sufficient for most purposes.
The main purpose of Rocksett is to keep assemblies from vibrating and dislodging under extreme temperatures. Rocksett can withstand incredible temperatures from -292 degrees Fahrenheit up to and beyond +1500 degrees Fahrenheit.
Never any health hazards with Rocksett. Non-toxic; does not require special-purpose rooms or extractor fans.
On another note, Rocksett will also bond keyless surfaces such as polished silver to glass, ceramic to glass, etc.
Loctite Blue https://dm.henkel-dam.com/is/content/he ... 8-04-09pdf

Loctite Red https://dm.henkel-dam.com/is/content/he ... 8-04-09pdf
There's an error on this tech data sheet [page 2], it states the color is blue but the rest is good.

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Re: Firearms CHAT: [insert chat title here]

Post by 12_Gauge_Chimp » Fri Nov 06, 2020 2:19 pm

Well, I had to redo the LocTite application on my PC9 muzzle brake.

Apparently it didn't set up properly at first (may have been a little oil on the threads when I first applied it), so I had to reapply it and then I found a few high temperature O-rings I forgot I had purchased.

So one slightly thicker O-ring was put on the barrel before I put the brake on again and I tightened it down as far as I could by hand. Then I broke out a flat faced wrench and gave it one more slight turn to line everything up.

It's not perfect, but it'll do until I can pick up some of those timing shims Pete linked to. As tight as the brake is on my PC9, I doubt it'll work loose now.

Still might be a good idea to get the timing shims and a little tube of Rocksett, though.

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Re: Firearms CHAT: [insert chat title here]

Post by boskone » Sat Nov 07, 2020 11:31 am

Interesting video about safes (specifically gun safes) from BosnianBill: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3PK9_KEHml4.
One comment I'd add is that if you get an electronic lock, make sure it's externally serviceable.

Mine came with a LaGard 3710 on mine which started to fail, and if it'd completely failed I couldn't reconnect it without the safe being open. Basically, there's a wire that's permanently attached to the input pad and connected to the internal lock, so you can't get it loose or replace it without access to the internals.

The S&G UL2 electronic locks are externally-serviceable, with the wire attached to the internal lock. That would allow you to remove the input pad and replace it, even if the safe were locked. (Note: the input pad is just an input pad; the logic board is part of the internal components.)

Or, in my case, I just got irritated and replaced it with an S&G mechanical. Electronic locks are faster and theoretically more secure, but I was irritated and it was cheaper.

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Re: Firearms CHAT: [insert chat title here]

Post by PistolPete » Mon Nov 09, 2020 9:15 am

boskone wrote:
Sat Nov 07, 2020 11:31 am
Interesting video about safes (specifically gun safes) from BosnianBill: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3PK9_KEHml4.
One comment I'd add is that if you get an electronic lock, make sure it's externally serviceable.

Mine came with a LaGard 3710 on mine which started to fail, and if it'd completely failed I couldn't reconnect it without the safe being open. Basically, there's a wire that's permanently attached to the input pad and connected to the internal lock, so you can't get it loose or replace it without access to the internals.

The S&G UL2 electronic locks are externally-serviceable, with the wire attached to the internal lock. That would allow you to remove the input pad and replace it, even if the safe were locked. (Note: the input pad is just an input pad; the logic board is part of the internal components.)

Or, in my case, I just got irritated and replaced it with an S&G mechanical. Electronic locks are faster and theoretically more secure, but I was irritated and it was cheaper.
How hard was it to set the combination after the install? I've thought about doing this myself, as I have a safe with a pretty old digital lock on it.
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Re: Firearms CHAT: [insert chat title here]

Post by boskone » Mon Nov 09, 2020 8:18 pm

PistolPete wrote:
Mon Nov 09, 2020 9:15 am
boskone wrote:
Sat Nov 07, 2020 11:31 am
Interesting video about safes (specifically gun safes) from BosnianBill: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3PK9_KEHml4.
One comment I'd add is that if you get an electronic lock, make sure it's externally serviceable.

Mine came with a LaGard 3710 on mine which started to fail, and if it'd completely failed I couldn't reconnect it without the safe being open. Basically, there's a wire that's permanently attached to the input pad and connected to the internal lock, so you can't get it loose or replace it without access to the internals.

The S&G UL2 electronic locks are externally-serviceable, with the wire attached to the internal lock. That would allow you to remove the input pad and replace it, even if the safe were locked. (Note: the input pad is just an input pad; the logic board is part of the internal components.)

Or, in my case, I just got irritated and replaced it with an S&G mechanical. Electronic locks are faster and theoretically more secure, but I was irritated and it was cheaper.
How hard was it to set the combination after the install? I've thought about doing this myself, as I have a safe with a pretty old digital lock on it.
Not very. Basically you stick the combo change key in, clear the dial like normal for a combination lock, dial in your new combination, and remove the key. The 'hard' part is that you dial to 11 o'clock (marked, at least on my lock) instead of 12; I had to pay attention lest habit take over and I dialed to 12.

Here's the instructions..

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Re: Firearms CHAT: [insert chat title here]

Post by PistolPete » Tue Nov 10, 2020 9:46 am

boskone wrote:
Mon Nov 09, 2020 8:18 pm
Not very. Basically you stick the combo change key in, clear the dial like normal for a combination lock, dial in your new combination, and remove the key. The 'hard' part is that you dial to 11 o'clock (marked, at least on my lock) instead of 12; I had to pay attention lest habit take over and I dialed to 12.

Here's the instructions..
Thanks, that's definitely on my list to do this winter.
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Re: Firearms CHAT: [insert chat title here]

Post by 12_Gauge_Chimp » Sun Nov 15, 2020 2:38 pm

I had a bit of an issue with the sling I bought for my PC9.

Specifically, it was an issue with the sling swivel itself. Apparently, Butler Creek put a bit too much powder coating on one of them and it wasn't closing fully. So a few minutes with some small jewelers files and it fits a little better.

It's not perfect, but I can't exactly swap out the swivels for different ones since the ones on my sling are sewn in.

I probably could, but I suck at sewing, so I'll have to make do with this sling until I can find a more suitable one.

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Re: Firearms CHAT: [insert chat title here]

Post by boskone » Sun Nov 15, 2020 4:44 pm

I've become a fan of old-fashioned GI slings since learning to use one.

Which, since they're also cheap and easy to disassemble, makes for a pretty nice setup.

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Re: Firearms CHAT: [insert chat title here]

Post by 12_Gauge_Chimp » Sun Nov 15, 2020 5:37 pm

boskone wrote:
Sun Nov 15, 2020 4:44 pm
I've become a fan of old-fashioned GI slings since learning to use one.

Which, since they're also cheap and easy to disassemble, makes for a pretty nice setup.
Only other sling I've got that's not currently on a rifle is a cheapo bungee sling I picked up at a gun shop in Roswell.

I think the brand was "Swamp Fox" or something similar.

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Re: Firearms CHAT: [insert chat title here]

Post by boskone » Sun Nov 15, 2020 5:47 pm

Do you have some paracord? Could always kill some time making a paracord sling. :D

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Re: Firearms CHAT: [insert chat title here]

Post by NT2C » Sun Nov 15, 2020 6:16 pm

The one on mine is padded, glove soft goat leather. I think it as $20 on Amazon
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